Caribbean Travel Roundup

Newsletter - Paul Graveline, Editor


Caribbean Travel Roundup
Paul Graveline, Editor
Edition 71
January 1, 1997

Last updated 28 Dec 96 1300ET

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1/ PRESS RELEASE

BVI:NEW ARTIFICIAL REEF FOR THE BVI FORWARDED BY LYNN MCKAMEY

Wreck of the Inganess Bay

"The   British  Virgin  Islands  have  been  blessed  with  easily 
accessible  world-class  wrecks  and artificial reefs," shares Joe 
Giacinto,   President  of  the  BVI  Dive  Operators  Association. 
"Divers  and snorkelers have been exploring and enjoying the wreck 
of the RMS Rhone and the Chikuzen for years and years." 

Visitors  to  the  BVI  now have another wreck to explore: the M/V 
Inganess  Bay.  The  BVI  Dive Operators Association sank the 136-
foot  island  freighter  as an artificial reef in August 1996. The 
ship  rests  just  south  of  Cooper Island. The Inganess Bay sits 
flat  on  its  bottom  in  95 feet of water, with 45 feet of water 
over  each  masthead. The site allows quick access from all points 
in  the  BVI  and  provides protection from swells and wind-driven 
seas. 

The  steel  Inganess  Bay  was  built  in  Holland  in  1950 for a 
Scottish  company.  In  1988,  Captain Hugh Bailey of Antigua sold 
the  ship  to  Captain  Cosmos  Sealey.  From  1988  to  1996, the 
colorful  red  ship  plied Caribbean trade routes from Puerto Rico 
to Trinidad. 

The  incarnation  of  the Inganess Bay as an artificial reef began 
in  July,  1996.  During  a  storm,  the island trader snapped her 
anchor  chain  and  grounded  in Road Harbour, Tortola in front of 
The  Moorings.  After  assessing  the  damage  and  repair  costs, 
Captain  Sealey  graciously  offered  the  ship  to  the  BVI Dive 
Operators as an artificial reef. 

The  BVI  Dive  Operators  Association  met  with  the  BVI  Ports 
Authority,  Department  of  Conservation  and Fisheries, and local 
police  and  fire  brigade to consider the final resting place for 
the  lnganess Bay. Joe Giacinto, recommended sinking it just south 
of  Cooper  Island,  out  of  shipping  lanes and away from points 
where yachtsmen enter and exit the BVI. 

To  prepare  the  Inganess Bay for its one-way trip to the bottom, 
workers  emptied  fuel tanks and then removed the main engine, all 
loose  wood,  and most doors. Many thanks go to Captain Sealey and 
his  crew--who provided a tremendous amount of labor--and to Kevin 
Rowlette  of  Shanty  Maritime  Services  Ltd,  who  provided  the 
knowledge   and  equipment  to  pull  the  Inganess  Bay  off  the 
shoreline in Road Harbour. 

Extricating  the  vessel  took  a  great  deal  more  effort  than 
anticipated.  The  job  started  at  6  a.m., and the ship was not 
floated  until noon. Workers needed ten pumps to keep the Inganess 
Bay  afloat  during  the  one-hour tow from Road Harbour to Cooper 
island.  At  3:30  p.m. the ship made her final trip, this time to 
the bottom. 

The  BVI  National  Parks  has installed moorings for the new dive 
site.  The  BVI  Dive  Operators Association is covering the costs 
incurred  by Shanty Maritime Services Ltd. A video documenting the 
sinking of the Inganess Bay is in the works. 

Said  Joe Giacinto, 25-year resident of the BVI and owner/operator 
of   Dive   BVI,  "The  British  Virgin  Islands  have  gained  an 
incredible  diving attraction. The ship will soon teem with a huge 
variety  of  fish  and  invertebrate life. The BVI can now add the 
Inganess Bay to its list of world-class, wreck dives. 

To  learn  more  about  diving and vacationing in the BVI, contact 
the  British  Virgin  Islands Tourism Board, 370 Lexington Avenue, 
Suite  511,  New York, NY 10017. Phone the San Francisco office at 
(800)  835-8530  or  New York at (212) 696-0400. On the World Wide 
Web: 

<http://www.caribbean-on-line.com/bv/bv.html>,                  or 
<http://www.bviwelcome.com>,                                    or 
<http://www.britishvirginislands.com>

2/ USVI NEWS

HOT RUMOR!!!!

Source  on  St.  John  reports  US Marine helicopter hovering over 
various  villas  on  the  island  ... reportedly scouting possible 
vacation  spots for President Clinton and family early next month! 
Wow-ser!!!! (12/27/96)

St. John Hyatt sold for $29.5 million

The  deal  is  finally done. The Virgin Islands Daily News reports 
Westin  Hotels and Resorts has purchased the former-St. John Hyatt 
and  hopes to reopen the facility "in the fourth quarter of 1977". 
Closing  on  the  deal  for the 285-room hotel is expected in mid-
February.  Reporter Lynda Lohr quotes the interim property manager 
saying  "some  post-Marilyn  reconstruction still needs to be done 
on the hotel".(12/27/96)

St. John tourism outlook

The  Virgin Islands Business Journal has an article in the current 
issue  focusing  on  St.  John's prospects for the season. While a 
visit  from  the  First  Family would certainly boost the island's 
image,  the  Business  Journal  says "local merchants and business 
operators  presented a mixed forecast based on pre-season activity 
at  restaurants,  shops and smaller lodgings." The general manager 
at  Caneel  reports  his  refurbished  resort  is sold out through 
Christmas,  and  occupancy will be "high" in January and February. 
Small  inns  and  guest  houses  like Tamarind Coiurt and Tamarind 
Court  are  reporting  a  "so  so"  winter.,  Bright  spot:  villa 
rentals.  Says one property manager "Vacationers who couldn't make 
it last year are excitedly returning."(12/27/96)

Ritz Carlton opens on St. Thomas, promises luxurious service

The  property-formerly-known  as  the Grand Palazzo Hotel has been 
refurbished  and  reopened  for  business  as the Ritz-Carlton St. 
Thomas.  Rates  range  from  $200  in  low season, to $925 in high 
season,  Dec.  19  to April 13. The 152-room facility is now owned 
by  Marriott  International.  Every  room has an ocean view. Daily 
News  reporter  Patrice  Johnson says the Ritz-Carlton's intention 
is  to  coddle  guests "from the time ... they set foot inside the 
building ... (with) chilled water and champagne."

The fourth Virgin

>From  the  St.  Thomas waterfront, you can see Water Island, which 
has  been  owned  entirely  by the US federal government. But this 
week,  the  Interior Department sold 50 acres of the island (about 
10%)  to  the government of the Virgin Islands. Over time, more of 
Water  Island  will  transfer  to  the VI's, too. Water Islands is 
perhaps   best  known  for  the  Flamingo  Bay  hotel,  which  was 
destroyed  by  Hurricane  Hugo  in  1989  but  which  is not being 
refurbished.  The  VI  government  will  spend  almost $250,000 to 
spruce up Water Island.(12/17/96)

Holiday gift idea

Cap'n  Fatty  Goodlander,  St.  John  storyteller,  has  published 
another  book,  "the  Collected Fat". It's a collection of stories 
he's  penned  over  the  past dozen years, the publishing of which 
has  been prompted, he says, by the desire to continue to feed his 
family.  The  St.  John  Tradewinds  reports  the  stories include 
profiles  of  several  people  well  known in the islands' sailing 
community as well as landlocked St. Johnians, too.(12/17/96)

Caneel's original employee, now 72, still on payroll

Cornelius  Matthias  started  working  at Caneel Bay Plantation in 
1950,  when  the  property totaled six rental cottages. Daily News 
reporter  Lynda  Lohr  has  profiled  Matthias,  and  reports  his 
memories  of  those  early years being those of guests who arrived 
by  ship  and  stayed  for  a month. Matthias was one of the first 
employees,  a laborer helping to build the terrace dining room. He 
was  paid $40 a month. He still works at Caneel three days a week. 
The resort's manager says Matthias "is very popular". (12/17/96) 


Hotel: Hyatt out, Westin in

Tradewinds  editor  Tom  Oat writes in his latest issue "The Hyatt 
is  out  of the running" to operate the facility it managed for at 
least  five  years,  until Skopbank foreclosed on the owners. "The 
Westin  hotel corporation," he says, "could be the next management 
company  ... according to hotel industry sources." Oat says he was 
unable  to  get  comments  about  the  report from either Hyatt or 
Westin.(12/10/96)

St. John's hottest new restaurant

It's  La  Tapas. Chef Alexandra Ewald learned the food business in 
her  father's  restaurants  in Germany and his supermarket/deli in 
St.  John.  Living  in  Spain, she found tapas bars and decided to 
open  one  in  Cruz  Bay.  The menu offers what one reporter calls 
"mucho  munchies",  lots  of  appetizer-sized  portions  which you 
accumulate  into  a  real dinner. She uses fresh-grown (Coral Bay) 
herbs,  and  makes  her  own mozarella cheese. (And in a pinch, if 
she  runs  out  of something, she runs up the street - wearing her 
chef's  apron  - to the family's deli, and does a little shopping, 
while you wait.(12/10/96)

 Ritz-Carlton offers "aggressive hospitality"

It's  the  old  Stouffer's hotel on St. Thomas, which opened maybe 
five  years  ago.  Today  the 152-room facility has a new look and 
the  new  attitude  of  its new operators, upscale hoteliers Ritz-
Carlton.  And  nowhere  were  the changes more obvious than in the 
staff  recruiting  ads  which  appeared  in the Daily News reading 
"ladies  and  gentlemen wanted to serve ladies and gentlemen". The 
hotel  is  offering  unheard-of  benefits  for  its  employees and 
promises  to  "train,  train  train"  to  make sure guests get the 
best.  The  hotel  says  its personnel; policies are so selective, 
that  of  100  job  applicants it interviews, it may hire a dozen. 
(12/10/96)

Report from St. John, USVI

We  were there just last week. Happy to report there is enthusiasm 
and  lots  of energy on the island, as businesses prepare for what 
is  hoped  will  be a very good Season. Downtown Cruz Bay is busy, 
very  busy,  even at 7:30am some days - when the cruise ships make 
a  "pit stop" so passengers can spend a quiet day on St. John. The 
rest  of  the  rowdy  boat  people then steam into St. Thomas. Re: 
restaurants.   We   are   happy  to  report,  first-hand  (and  at 
considerable  expense)  that  the beachfront restaurant are Caneel 
and   Cruz  Bay-overlooking  "Asolare"  are  at  peak  performance 
levels.(12/3/96)

Caneel's  renovation  and  repair job is marvelous. If you visited 
previously,  you'll  be  hard  pressed  to see changes, but you'll 
know  they  were  made  because the resort looks spiffier and more 
solid.  But  the  public  areas,  the beach, the buildings and the 
grounds  all have the appearance of quality and tradition. They've 
made it "new again" without making it look "plastic".(12/3/96)

Asolare,  the  restaurant we said was the best in the world before 
the  hurricane ... is open ... and is still the best in the world. 
Even  though  the  meal is the price of a night's hotel stay, it's 
worth it! Book it.(12/3/96)

Rainy season ending early

The  Christmas Winds have arrived about a month early on St. John, 
bringing  cool  temperatures and dryer conditions to end the rainy 
season  a  bit  ahead of schedule. One report says nighttime temps 
are  in the 60's! A former meteorologist, now living on St. Croix, 
told  the  Virgin Islands Daily News "this is truly the weather of 
Paradise  right  now."  He  explains  the  Christmas winds are the 
remains  of  dry  and cold high pressure systems sliding down from 
the  States.  Forecasters say the Winds (more like breezes) remain 
through March.(12/3/96)

Governor optimistic for new year

Despite  skeptics  who  predict the VI government will be bankrupt 
within  a  year,  Gov.  Roy  Schneider  sees  no  need  to  reduce 
essential  government  services  or  raise  taxes.  In a broadcast 
address  last  week,  Schneider  said  "I  inherited a (financial) 
mess,"  a  $300  million  deficit.  Then came Hurricane Marilyn to 
wallop  the  islands'  economy.  But  he said half a dozen capital 
projects  will  pump  dollars  into  the  government  treasury and 
workers'  paychecks.  Schneider  also listed casino development on 
St.   Croix   as   a   soon-to-arrive   economic   boost  for  the 
islands.(12/3/96)

Casino plans

Hong  Kong  businessmen will take advantage of federal legislation 
to  buy "green cards" by investing $10.5 million in a hotel-casino 
project  to  be  developed  on  St.  Croix.  The  green  card-for-
investment  plan  was  authorized  by  Congress.  Green cards give 
their  holders  residential  status  by  the  US  Immigration  and 
Naturalization  Service,  permitting  their holders to live in the 
USA.  Plans  call  for  construction  of  a  seven-story, 166-room 
facility. (12/3/96)

 VI America's Cup challengers $500,000 serious

The  V.I.  America's  Cup  Challenge has bought Stars and Stripes, 
the  boat Dennis Conner sailed in the 1992 Cup finals. Price: $500 
million,  funded  says  a  spokeswoman  for  VI  Challenge  by St. 
Thomas's  Cornelius  Prior  and  wife,  and  "an  anonymous  local 
resident".  The ship is expected to arrive in St. Thomas, aboard a 
transport  vessel,  Friday,  Dec.  6.  It's  the boat team captain 
Peter  Holmberg  will  use  to compete in trials in New Zealand in 
October, 1999. 

Source: http://www.stjohntradewindsnews.com/

3/ JOURNEYS FOR JANUARY 1997

ANGUILLA: SONESTA BEACH RESORT BY ED AND LIZ DAVIDSON

Are  you  looking for an island with beautiful rain forests, large 
resorts,  inexpensive  food,  lots  of  stores  for shopping and a 
great  night life? Then try a Mexican vacation or perhaps Jamaica, 
because Anguilla has none of this.

Are  you  looking  for  an  island  that has incredible white-sand 
beaches,  turquoise  waters,  world-class resorts and restaurants, 
friendly people and no crowds at all? Then try Anguilla.

My  wife  and  I took a one week vacation in early December, 1996, 
to  Sonesta Beach Resort on Anguilla. We chose Anguilla because of 
reports  in  the CTR. We have been to some other Caribbean islands 
and  Hawaii,  and  Anguilla  is the best we have found so far. You 
will  notice that most people's CTR reports exclusively talk about 
how  wonderful everything was and what they had to eat every meal. 
I  don't  find  these  to  be  particularly  helpful in choosing a 
resort  or  island,  so  I  will  give  you  a  couple of personal 
opinions  and  suggestions.  We discussed our trip with some other 
couples  who  had  multi-island  experience  and most had the same 
opinions of Anguilla and Sonesta.

We  flew  American  Airlines from San Juan direct to Anguilla. For 
those  of  you  coming from the western US, there is a problem. It 
is  almost  impossible to get into San Juan on American in time to 
make  the  afternoon  American Eagle flight. The only other flight 
leaves  at  10  pm,  and  therefore  you  get  to the resort after 
midnight,  losing the first day on Anguilla. You can take a flight 
from  San  Juan to St. Martin and then transfer to another shuttle 
airline  or  take a taxi from St. Martin airport and hop the ferry 
over  to  Anguilla,  but  both  of  these  options  are a bit of a 
hassle,  especially  considering  the ferry did not run two of the 
seven days we were in Anguilla due to rough seas.

We  had  a 7-night honeymoon package from Sonesta which turned out 
to  be  one  of  the  better  deals  on the island. Make sure your 
package  includes  transfers  to  and from the airport - this will 
save  you  about  $40.  Some  people  had  this  included in their 
package,  others did not. Also, a couple of people had gotten free 
upgrades  to  a Junior Suite in their package. Evidently there are 
some   slight  differences  in  the  Sonesta  honeymoon  packages, 
depending  on  your travel agent. Off-season the package ran about 
$2200  for  seven  nights  (airfare  separate)  and  included  all 
breakfasts,  two  dinners,  watersports  and a jeep for a day plus 
some  other  little nice extras. Expect to spend no less than $150 
per  day  on top of this for food and drinks and other extras. The 
restaurants on Anguilla are wonderful, but expensive.

Sonesta  Beach  Resort  (formerly  Casablanca)  is  a very pretty, 
romantic  resort  of  about  90  rooms.  We  had a junior suite in 
building  C which was very fresh and clean (seemed almost new) and 
had  a  wonderful  view of the ocean. We would suggest you ask for 
rooms  in  the  A  or B building which put you right on the beach. 
However,  we  were  told  the  suites  in building C were a little 
larger  with  a  tub  for  two  and separate shower. The rooms are 
white  tile  with  Italian  marble  bathrooms.  All have a private 
balcony/patio.

Although  Sonesta  is  one of the largest resorts on Anguilla, you 
would  never  know  it  from  the amount of people you see. It was 
very  quiet  and  the beach was never crowded. A couple of days we 
took  walks to adjacent bays and found ourselves completely alone, 
no  one  within  200  yards of us. I don't think you will find too 
many  islands  where  you can sit on pure white sand and turquoise 
waters and have a whole beach to yourself.

If  we  were  to go back we might try Cap Juluca or Malliouhana if 
we  could  afford  them.  Cap  has  the  best beach on the island. 
Malliouhana  has  the  best service (according to a couple who had 
stayed  at Sonesta and Malliouhana). Sonesta service is very good; 
the  concierge  is  the  best.  A  lot of folks, including us, had 
strongly  considered  Cinnamon  Reef.  It is tranquil but a little 
old  looking  and  not  on  one of the better beaches. We were all 
glad  we  chose Sonesta. Cap, Sonesta and Cinnamon Reef are on the 
leeward  side  of the island overlooking St. Martin. It was a real 
plus  to  be  on  the  leeward  side during the week we were there 
because  of  strong  winds  and  rough  seas. Something called the 
Christmas  winds  which,  we were told, would go away by February. 
If  that  is  true,  then  the windward side which is Malliouhana, 
Frangipani and others would be fine.

We  had  a  couple  of complaints with Sonesta. First and foremost 
was  that  current  management can't seem to make up their mind as 
to  whether  they  want  to  be  a  romantic honeymoon resort or a 
family  resort.  Fortunately  for  us,  there were only two guests 
with   children.   However,  our  last  day  there,  as  Christmas 
approached,  about  four  or five guests showed up with children - 
some  of  them  very  noisy.  We have kids, but chose Sonesta as a 
romantic  get-away.  There  really isn't much for kids to do other 
than  play on the beach and in the pool. However, Sonesta put up a 
small  playground/swingset  near  the  restaurant. Really stupid - 
you've  got  this  romantic open-air restaurant that overlooks the 
pool,  ocean and SWINGSET! If you go to Sonesta (Cap also had some 
families)  and  you  are  trying  to  get  away from children, you 
should  try to go when school is in session. However, even this is 
no guarantee since most of the kids were under 5 years of age.

Second  complaint  is  that  Sonesta  really  feels like a Florida 
resort.  No  Caribbean  flavor.  The only night you got any island 
flavor  was  Thursday night when they hired a local band and had a 
barbecue  on  the  beach.  A  steel drum band at happy hours would 
have  been  nice and would have kept people around the bar. Again, 
you  get a feeling that Sonesta management is not very experienced 
and missing the boat on some opportunities.

Anguilla  is  an  arid  island.  It  gets  much less rain than the 
tropical  islands.  I  read  that  the  island is considered to be 
fairly  wealthy with most everyone owning a home. Well, wealthy is 
relative  and  although  we  did  not  see  the shacks and begging 
children  that we had seen on other islands, it really is a junky, 
messy  island with poor infrastructure. A word of warning - If you 
are  considering a villa, make sure you know what you are getting. 
Most  of  the villas we saw were in junky areas. The neighbors had 
lots  of goats and chickens running around and normally a wrecked, 
rusting  car  in  the  yard.  This  was the norm of what we saw in 
villas, not the exception.

In   the  midst  of  this,  however,  are  many  small,  exclusive 
restaurants.  Our quick review of these: Best lunch - Uncle Ernies 
on  Shoal  Bay.  Six  tables,  $2 beer and $6 ribs or chicken. Fun 
place  right  on  the  water.  Some guy named "Pressure King" will 
give  you  his  card and recommend several restaurants if you ask. 
However,  he  recommended  Ripples  restaurant  which was not that 
great.  Best  dinner  -  Koal Keel in the Valley ("downtown"). The 
oldest  house  on  the  island  and  the  best  food. $110 for two 
included  two  glasses  of  house wine, appetizers, entrees and we 
split  a  dessert.  Make sure and take the tour of the house which 
finishes   with   a   complimentary  rum  tasting.  Most  Romantic 
Restaurant  -  Mangos  -  candlelit tables 10 feet from the waves. 
Same  price as Koal Keel, although service was not nearly as good. 
The  most popular restaurant was Blanchards, but we thought it was 
overpriced  - $150 - $175 for same food as above, average service. 
They  have  a fabulous wine cellar - rated one of th! best by Wine 
Spectator  magazine.  We  had lunch at the Dunes and were the only 
ones  there.  You  can walk to the Dunes from Sonesta if you bring 
your  shoes  along.  Our  other meals were at Sonesta's Casablanca 
restaurant.  All restaurants automatically add 15% gratuity. There 
is no tax on the island.

Finally,  we  would  recommend  getting a car or jeep for three or 
four  days. This is because of the very high taxi prices. $18 one-
way  downtown.  About $15 one-way to restaurants within 3 miles of 
Sonesta.  A car is only $40 for 24 hours (total price, no tax), so 
you  can  see that it only takes a couple of taxi rides to pay for 
a  car. It is very easy to get around the island - really only one 
main  road that every other road eventually feeds into. Driving on 
the  left  takes a few minutes to get used to but really very safe 
as opposed to driving in Mexico or Jamaica.

A  couple  of other things - We did the horse ride - don't bother. 
We  thought about doing a catamaran cruise but the seas were a bit 
rough.  We  heard  this  was a lot of fun. We read in a CTR report 
that  Scilly  Cay had $15 to $20 lobster - nope. We didn't talk to 
anyone  that went - most felt that $35 to $45 for lobster/crayfish 
lunch  was  a  bit much. It's a fairly long drive up to Scilly Cay 
if  you  are  staying at the west end of the island which is where 
the  majority  of  the  resorts  are.  Cyril's Fish House is right 
across  from  Scilly  Cay  and  some folks told us they had a good 
meal  there.  Cyril's and Koal Keel both offer pick up services so 
you  don't  have the cost of a cab fare. The night we went to Koal 
Keel  we  crammed  in  a  van with six other couples from Sonesta. 
That  night,  Koal  Keel  only  had eight tables full and six were 
from  Sonesta.  The  restaurants  on the island were really empty; 
again, no crowds anywhere.

Anguilla  has  some  of  the  friendliest  people  in  the  world. 
Everyone  is  very helpful. Virtually no crime on the island - you 
will  always  feel  safe.  An  example  of  this  is  that we were 
exploring  the  island one day and were having a hard time finding 
Little  Bay  -  a  secluded snorkeling spot. We were out on a dirt 
road  in  the  middle of nowhere and came upon a man herding goats 
down  the  middle  of  the road. He quickly moved the goats out of 
the  way  and we stopped and asked where Little Bay was. He took a 
large  machete  he  was  holding and, speaking in perfect English, 
drew  us  a  map in the dirt. Now, name another place in the world 
where  two  white  people  lost  on  some  dirt  road  would  feel 
comfortable  asking  directions  from  a  large  black  man with a 
machete.

ANTIGUA: CLUB ANTIGUA BY JERRY ERMANN

Have just returned from 2 weeks at Club Antigua. Club Antigua is located on Lignum Vitae Bay and Jolly Beach on the southwest of Antigua. Roughly 30 minutes the airport and 20 minutes from city of St. Johns. I have rated the following from 1 through 10 with 1 lowest. Checkin (3) upon arrival handed registration form told to fill it out and then wait in line. We were only ones in line and it took 15 minutes before desk clerk waited on us. Room (3) All "furniture" (except bed) in room was cement. Desk/dressing table, end tables on each side of bed, shelves in closet all cement. Only two electrical outlets in room. One by desk/dresser was 220 volts. The other by end table was 110 volts. Room painted very poorly. It appeared if something was in way they didn't move it just slopped paint around it. No electrical outlet in bathroom. There was however an outlet that said electric shavers only. Housekeeping (7) I think maid did good job. Room was always cleaned by 1:30 or 2 at latest. Food quality (6) Food was OK. Well prepared and tasteful. Food selection (4) Palm Restaurant buffet very limited choices. Entrees were 4 at each meal. At breakfast buffet choices one day were: French toast, bacon, sausage, and scrambled eggs. Next day they would be: pancakes, bacon, corned beef hash, and beans. Also eggs or omelets were available as well as cereal, juice, fresh fruit and pastry. Lunch and dinner at buffet were also limited to four choices of entrees and four salad choices. The menu for lunch and dinner at least changed every day. Pasta restaurant had two pasta choices, four salad choices, one main dish and two pizza choices each night. Both buffet and past had several dessert choices. Entertainment (8) Good variety. Saturday through Thursday took place at Palm Terrace next to buffet restaurant. Band would play from about 7:30 to 8:30 then from 9:00 to 9:30. At 9:30 main show would begin. Different each night. Native dance troupe, limbo fire show, calypso singer etc. Main show would go until 10 to 10:15 then band would play until 11:00. Friday night entertainment was at beach with steel band. Beach (9) Jolly beach approx. 3/4 mile long. Did need more lounge chairs for beach. Had to get one by 8:30 or out of luck. Pool area (5) A little small for resort this size. Did not sit much by pool as we preferred beach. Bar drinks (7) Banana and pineapple daiquiris(sp) were super. Most drinks were I think at least a double shot. Grounds (7) Well kept. Lot of flowering plants and shrubs. Needed more lighting along paths as some were very dark. Hotel layout (4) This is the biggest resort on Antigua. 470 rooms. Very spread out. Depending on what section you were in could have had at least a 1/4 mile walk to dinner. Staff (2) Staff was not exactly rude but were not overly friendly either. Service was at times slow. Had to find our own silverware at breakfast a couple of times. Bar service was slow most of time. Wife ordered a coke one afternoon and bartender told her to get from self serve. Activities (5) Usual games around pool. We also took a couple of excursions while there. St. Johns shopping trip $6 per person. Cab to St. Johns for 3 hours of shopping. (2 1/2 hours to much for me) Shopping not very good. Kokomo Cat sailing $75 per person. Cat picked you up at 8:00 at hotel beach. Sailed around Antigua stopping at other hotels to pickup others. Stop at Green Island for lunch (cole slaw, rice, macaroni and cheese, baked chicken) also open bar during cruise. Back at hotel about 4:30. Estate Safari $60 per person. Pick up next door at Jolly Harbor. Stop at Fort Barrington. Hike up to fort about 200 feet above sea level. Great view. Then Betty's Hope an old sugar plantation. On to Devils Bridge on Atlantic Coast. Then to Monks Hill. Remains of old fort. Super view from 900 feet of sea level. From Monks Hill drove through remains of rain forest. Last stop was at Johnsons Point Beach for lunch and swim. Back at hotel about 4:30. Even with all the poor ratings I gave CA we did have a nice time. Would go back to Antigua but would not stay here.

ANTIGUA : JOLLY HARBOUR RESORT BY GORD AND PATTI BRIEN

Here  is  a  summary  of  our  recent  trip  to Antigua, including 
everything  you ever wanted to know about the Jolly Harbour Resort 
(for those of you who don't believe brochures). 

Accommodations: 

We  stayed  at  the  Jolly Harbour Resort and were very impressed. 
The  units  were  new two story villa/townhouses. The upstairs had 
two  bedrooms.  The  master bedroom has a double bed and the other 
has  two  twin beds. The villa had an upstairs powder room (toilet 
&  sink) and a shower room (shower stall and sink), but apparently 
some  villas  have a toilet, sink and shower in both rooms or only 
one  bathroom.  Both bedrooms had a dresser and ceiling fan. Don't 
be  afraid  to  move  the twin beds together or move them directly 
under  the  ceiling fan. The master bedroom has sliding doors that 
lead  to  an upstairs balcony. There was an iron and ironing board 
in the smaller bedroom and large closets in both bedrooms. 

The  main  floor  had  a  nicely equipped kitchen with an electric 
stove,   refrigerator,   coffee   maker   and  something  that  is 
apparently  supposed  to  be  a  toaster  (not  your typical North 
American  Toaster).  There  was  a  dining and living room (no TV, 
phones,  or  radio,  so bring a cheap transistor radio if you like 
noise).  There  were  sliding doors that led to a very large patio 
with  shaded  and unshaded areas and a walkout to a dock (sailboat 
moorings   available).   Our  patio  overlooked  a  waterway  that 
separated  the  villa  from  the  beach.  Other villas face only a 
water  way  but  not  the  beach.  The main floor also had another 
powder  room  (toilet  and  sink) and a small garage for parking a 
golf cart or for storage. 

The  electricity  is 220 volts and North American hair dryers etc. 
will  not  plug in without an adapter which can be rented from the 
resort.  Bring an adapter from home or don't bring appliances. Our 
traveling  companion  had  her  hair  braided the first day so she 
wouldn't need the hair dryer. 

AC  is  not  included but is available at an extra $US 10/day. You 
can  survive  without  the  AC  quite  easily with the fans and by 
leaving  windows  open  to get the wind blowing through the villa. 
Try it. You're in the tropics. Enjoy the heat. 

The  resort  is  big,  so you have to do a lot of walking. They do 
have  shuttle  buses  and  people  will  often stop and give you a 
ride.  The main source of transportation on the resort is the golf 
cart,  which  can be rented if desired for about $US 25/day. There 
is  a  discount  if  you  pay  cash. If you enjoy walking, you can 
easily  get  by without the golf cart. If you do get one, they are 
lots of fun. 

There  are a couple of companies renting the villas at the resort. 
One  is associated with Club Antigua, and the other one is a villa 
management   company  called  HBK  Villa  Rentals.  The  price  in 
November  96  was  $US160  a night for four adults. Less expensive 
rates  for  differently  equipped  villas are available, for fewer 
occupants  and  with  travel  industry discounts. There was a high 
vacancy  rate.  After  April  13/97  a  villa for two occupants is 
available from Club Antigua for $US 76/night. 

The  Jolly Harbour Resort is located on 500 acres and is next door 
to  Club  Antigua.  The  resort  has:  a golf course, a helicopter 
service,  a  swimming  pool,  tennis,  a sports facility, complete 
marina  facilities,  and a respectable shopping plaza with a bank, 
duty  free shops, gift shops, a grocery store, a pub, restaurants, 
car rentals, and beauty salon. 

Dining 

Guest  at  Jolly  Harbour  have the option of paying an additional 
$US  50  /  per  person  per day for the use all of Club Antigua's 
"all  inclusive"  privileges,  while  staying in the nicer villas. 
The  down  side to "all inclusive" resorts is that you have little 
choice  but  to  eat only what is offered, when it is offered. The 
quality  of  food  also  varies,  and  if you have already paid in 
advanced,  you  have  little  choice but to suffer through it. You 
will  also  be less likely to try local restaurants since you have 
already paid for your meal at the resort. 

If  you  want  to  save  lots  of cash, bring food from home to be 
cooked  in  your  villa  We brought our own coffee, sugar, bagels, 
pancake  mix  and  some  frozen and canned items for quick lunches 
and  snacks.  If you bring your own, you can avoid the high prices 
at  the  local  grocery  stores  and  restaurants  The  other  big 
advantage  of cooking some meals in your villa is time. Service in 
the  Caribbean  is  not  known  for speed. You can easily spend an 
hour  at  breakfast and two hours at lunch (waiting for so-so food 
that  is quite expensive). We generally bought at least one meal a 
day  at  a  restaurant, and ate in the villa the rest of the time. 
The maid does the dishes. 

There  are  a  several  restaurants  on  the  resort where you can 
purchase   meals:   The  Driftwood  (at  the  beach),  an  Italian 
restaurant,  Peter's  B-B-Q Steakhouse, a Swiss Bakery/Coffeehouse 
and  a  restaurant  in  the  Sports  Centre.  Your best bet is the 
Driftwood  any  time  and the Italian place for lunch. We were not 
impressed  with  the  restaurant in the Sports Complex (expensive, 
not  much  selection,  slow).  There  is a Pub called the Dogwatch 
which  is  a  fun  place  to  go  for a drink or try to play pool. 
Drinks  are  reasonably priced. Lots of locals, sailors and resort 
employees hang out there. 

Some  other  places  we  recommend  are: Hemmingways in St. John's 
(have  a  flying fish sandwich), the Dock in English Harbour (nice 
atmosphere) and Fingers at Runaway Beach. 

Life on the Beach 

The  Jolly Harbour has a great beach. It is very big, and not very 
crowded.  You  can stick close to the Driftwood Restaurant or walk 
five  minutes  down  the  beach and be relatively secluded. Chairs 
and  "Tiki  Huts"  are  free.  Topless bathing is popular. You can 
walk  over  to  Club Antigua's beach, but it is a lot more crowded 
and there are many more vendors. 

There  is  a  $US  25/ towel refundable deposit on the towels. Get 
the  towel  and use the money for the Taxi back to the airport and 
for  the  departure  tax  when you leave. They will give you fresh 
towels  daily  if  you run into a maid or leave them in your room. 
You could bring your own, but I don't think that is worth it. 

Bring  a  soft  sided insulated cooler from home to take it to the 
beach.  You  can  fill  it with food or clothes when it is in your 
suitcase  and  fill  it  daily  with ice and beverages and take it 
with you on the beach. 

Security 

We  felt  extremely  safe  in the resort. There are three security 
gates  between  the  road  and  the  villas. The villas are almost 
surrounded  by  water,  which  would  make  is  very difficult for 
undesirables  to enter the Villa Area without being noticed. There 
are  no  safes  in  the  rooms.  Leave  jewelry  and  the unneeded 
contents of your wallet at home. 

Getting Around 

Rent  a  car  and  drive  around.  It  was fun. We rented a Nissan 
Sentra  with  AC  for $US 35/day. The quoted rate at Hertz (at the 
resort)  is  $40  but if you say that Dollar Rent a Car quoted $35 
they  will  lower the price. Use the right credit card, or buy the 
Insurance  at home from you own insurance company and you will not 
have  to  buy  the optional CDW insurance. You must also pay for a 
temporary  Antigua  drivers  license. Four things to remember when 
driving in Antigua: 

 1) Drive on the left 
 2) The roads are very bumpy 
 3) Follow the Jolly Harbour Resort signs home 
 4) When in doubt, turn left at the Texaco. 
 
We  took  the  local bus to St. John's one day. The public transit 
consists  of  a  fleet  privately  owned  mini  vans that carry 15 
passengers.  To  catch  the  bus walk to the road at the main gate 
(this  is  where  they  turn around for the trip back to the city) 
and  flag  it  down.  Make sure that it is the bus and not a taxi. 
Ask  the price. It should be about $1.50 EC per person!!. It's not 
a  bad  way to travel if you don't require too much room. You have 
to  share  your ride with lots of other people, but everyone has a 
seat. It takes about an hour. 

  Once  you  are at the bus depot in St. John's it is a short walk 
to  the  shopping areas. The best shopping was in the new Redcliff 
and  Heritage  Quays  (plazas). St. John's is also a good place to 
stock  up on groceries, go to the casino, try a new restaurant and 
visit  a  banking  machine  /  ATM. There are a couple of Canadian 
banks  there  (Scotiabank,  Royal  Bank)  with ATM's where you can 
withdraw  money  just like at home, but in local (EC) dollars. The 
ATM's  are  on  the Plus, Cirrus and Interac Networks. There is no 
need  for traveler cheques these days. I usually carry one banking 
machine  card and leave another at the hotel. If one was lost, you 
can  always  use  the other to get cash. They are not much good to 
thieves without the security code. 

  We also went on a sailing tour. It was a great day. The sailboat 
was  a  60'  catamaran  (a twin hulled sailboat) called the Kokomo 
Cat.  The  vendors  sell  tickets on the beach. It was $60US which 
includes   a   nice   lunch,   unlimited  drinks,  a  great  sail, 
snorkeling,  and  a  stop at a nice beach. Other sailing tours are 
available  including  a  sunset cruise. If you pay by credit card, 
you  have  to  pay  a  5% service charge. The whole thing was very 
well  organized  and  the crew was very professional and friendly. 
You  board  the  boat  at  the beach at Club Antigua, but the boat 
docks at Jolly Harbour Marina when not in use. 

  There  are  other sailing tours available including on the Jolly 
Roger  and  several  other catamarans. You have to ride out to the 
Jolly  Roger on a launch, as it is too big to come ashore. You can 
also  rent  all  of  the  popular  water  sports equipment (bubble 
boats,  sail boards, etc.) on the beach at Jolly Harbour for about 
$US10/ Hr. 

 Enjoy. 

ARUBA BY MARTIN DOCTROW

I  do not know where to start. The waves and beach changes are the 
most  interesting.  Yes  there were waves breaking 20 feet high, I 
saw  pictures  to  prove  it. The Tam got water in the first floor 
rooms  18 inches in some. The whole beach went and then came back. 
The  area  at  Costa  Linda had high waves and much sand movement. 
Many  of  the huts and all the stacks of beach chairs were covered 
with  sand  at  CL.  One tourist was killed trying to get video of 
the  waves.  The  beach  at La Cabana picked up about 10 inches of 
depth  of sand. Eagle beach was cleaned up and sand was leveled in 
a  few  days  Palm  Beach was still not fully cleaned up two weeks 
later.  Water  a  La  Cabana  was up to the road at the peak. High 
waves  at  CL  covered  much of that beach (water was up to Pirate 
restaurant).  Insects  were  a problem in the evenings every where 
due   to   standing  water.  They  were  extensively  fogging  and 
spraying. Had a great time anyway. 

Best  food  this  trip  was  at La Trattatoria el Fero Blanco (ate 
there  twice),  El  Gaucho,  The  Grill  House,  and  Alfredos  at 
Adventure  Golf  (ate there three times). Worst meal was at Chalet 
Suisse (my fault ordered Turkey) 

Driftwood  has  enlarged.  Except  for El Gaucho downtown eateries 
are  hurting.  Most  visitors  are avoiding downtown due to cruise 
ship traffic and relocation of stores to the Pink monstrosity. 

Current  plans  call  for  expanding  cruise ship docking area and 
moving  cargo docks to San Nicholas. Government is selling Bushiri 
hotel,  but  may  end  up  owning  the  Raddison.  Divi Phoenix is 
opening  in Feb., still a lot of work to be done. Car rentals will 
be at a premium in high season book now!!! 

Had  a  wonderful  Hanukah  at  La  Cabana.  85 at candlelightg 65 
stayed  for  party. I understand the synagogue had a full house as 
well. 

La  Cabana will soon have a new sales company selling the units at 
Beach  and  Racquet  Club.  Developer  is  making  a  bulk sale of 
remaining units there. I expect prices to go up. 

Sonesta  Suites  seems to no longer be selling T/S units. Rumor is 
that  they  plan  to  run it as hotel. Maintenance fees at Sonesta 
rumored  to  be  going  to $350. I do not know if it is true. Time 
share  tax going to $7 a night. Not bad when compared to transient 
room  tax  at  $16  a  night  plus 12% service charge on room. The 
airport  is  at  capacity now I cannot imagine high season. I flew 
out  on  Thursday  and all flights to US on American (4) were sold 
out. 

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