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Caribbean Travel RoundupNewsletter - Paul Graveline, Editor |
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Returned last Saturday( in the midst of a bad snow storm in the NE) from a week on Montserrat-yes the island with the active volcano, and we had a wonderful time. Arrived on the island on November 30 after spending a week on Virgin Gorda with other friends to discover that the volcano alert had been heightened, and they was the possibility of an imminent eruption. Did we leave, no, because we were in the safe zone, and yes, after listening to scientists, the government, and the residents we spoke with, we felt that we were. Is was fun driving daily to see what the volcano was doing, and if you could see the top. It was often shrouded with clouds. We did pay special attention to the twice daily volcano updates ( we called them our twice daily volcano scares). Montserrat is a small island, and half has been evacuated because of the possibility of an eruption. They have had several small pyroclastic flows since the volcano became active in July of 1995, but because of the evacuation, no one has been killed as the result of volcanic activity. We rented a villa through Tradewinds Real Estate on the island, and were more than satisfied. We had two bedrooms, two baths, and large kitchen with microwave and dishwasher, and swimming pool, and a lovely solarium with comfortable furniture and a TV for $850. Yes, it is an affordable island, and I don't believe the house rentals were reduced in price because of the volcano. Most of the houses are in neighborhoods that are occupied by British and American expatriates, although because of the evacuation of the capital, were most of the businesses were located, you may have an odd neighbor. We shared a street with the Water Authority, and banks and other services had also relocated to available locations in the safe zone. I have visited numerous islands in the Caribbean, and the residents on Montserrat were the nicest and most helpful of any place I have visited. The only draw back to the trip was the weather. The sea was extremely rough the entire week, and I was not able to snorkel, which I love, but other than that it was a very relaxing vacation. Don't expect night life even if there is no volcano. Montserrat does not appear to want to attract the resort set. but if you want to visit a lovely island, try Montserrat.
Uneventful trip from BWI to SXM. Smooth connection through transit gate to Winair,(we had carry on stuff) and we got to SBH an hour ahead of schedule. First impressions- the island is much greener than last year, we were told that a fair amount of rain has fallen since May producing a lush appearance. Our villa was in the hills above Corossol. A new location for us. Nice, breezy enough and a good view of Gustavia and incoming boat traffic as well as the village down below. And in the distance, you could see Saba, Statia, St. Kitts and Nevis. Restaurants--L'Escale, went twice, great for casual dinner, nice location on water in Gustavia, tasty food and an energetic staff that makes the meal fun. Italian Specialties mostly, but we also had grilled fish. Eden Rock.--A great place for lunch overlooking and seemingly in the middle of St. Jean Bay. Excellent food, nice people, and a nifty decor. Cups----A new place across from Filao Beach. Very pretty, tables set around a pool, a younger French crowd seemed to be there. Great food, friendly owners, they have only been open for three weeks and are still feeling their way, but a good stop for dinner especially if you are a fan of sailing. The name Cups comes from the America's Cup racing series. Marc Pajot of the 1994 French Challenge team was in town with his two boats, France 2 and France 3.. The crew dined at Cups and had a sailing exhibiton out of Gustavia. Au Port---Our favorite for the week. Small and intimate, the food, service and presentation was wonderful. Our first time ever in this restaurant, we would definitely go back again. Eddy's---Good food, but service lacked a little which is too bad as this place is really a great addition to the Gustavia restaurant scene. Lunch at Le Select was the usual crowd watching event it always is. Marius is still around Beaches--Saline--very busy on Sunday, almost 'crowded', but that term is relative on this beach. Beach has built back up after storm and looks great. Governeur--A bit quieter all week but similar to Saline, built back up, clean and crystal clear water. Flamands--Storms continue to take toll here, it looked like a lot of sand had been recently scoured away. Very few people on the beach. St. Jean, popular, but facing the north, it suffers some of the same problem of Flamands. Hotels in good shape however. Cruise ships----A lot of them. Each day but Tuesday there were ships in port. Ranging from very small, elegant Cunard liners to much larger Club Med and Winward, Corsica Victoria and Costa Classica. Many more windjammer types as well, Polynesia and Sea Cloud (square rigger). The effects on the island varied. Some days almost no impact to the day when a total of five were in port at the same time and the town was bit hectic. On those days, it pays to make reservations for dinner because it seems that some of these ships are staying well into the evening perhaps allowing the passengers time for a meal in town. Other observations--- There seems to be a lot of "Public Works" type of activity underway. The road in front of the Anglican Church has been totally rebuilt with new lights, planting and palm trees. The church itself has new roof and all over the island there seemed to be work cruise sprucing up, perhaps for the holiday rush. Much more traffic and activity than last year, but that should be expected. St. Barth looked good, the weather was great and we had a great time
We left RDU at 8:00 in the morning and it was 38 degrees. We arrived at St. Thomas at 3:15 and it was 84 degrees . . . a significant change, and it only got better. By the time we got out of the airport, Carolyn had signed us up for a tour of one of the properties on the island, and we had picked up information on about what felt like everything on the island. (It wasn't.) They drive on the left side of the road in the Virgin Islands, which really takes some time to get used to. The transportation to the hotel was in an open air vehicle, this and some of the taxis are 25 passenger vehicles. They are pick-up bodies with 5 rows of seats replacing the bed of the pick-up. Covered and entered from only one side, they reminded us of some amusement park rides. It's not as bad as it seems . . . the speed limit in Charlotte Amalie is 20, and the rest of the island is 35 mph. The only place where there are four lanes of traffic are from the airport to "downtown" (~3 miles). It also the only area where the roads are relatively flat . . . the rest will remind you of rural West Virginia (nothing on one side and curves in front), but they still drive on the wrong side. We believe the hardest part of the left had driving is intersections and pulling out of a driveway. It was 4:30 by the time we checked into the Sapphire. We had been upgraded to an Ocean Front Villa, which was a two level condo, that would sleep 6 . . . more than enough room for just the two of us. Each level had a patio which looked out over the water. We didn't get to see the sunset (because we were on the eastern end of the island), but we could see St. John in the distance (turns out it's about 2.5 miles). Breath-taking, romantic, and just the two of us. Dinner Saturday was at the Seagrape, the restaurant at the Sapphire, and it was all patio dinning. They featured a special entree or a local seafood dish daily. The trees that are along the water are Seagrapes, which is how the restaurant got it's name. Saturday they offered Atlantic Salmon, which Carolyn had broiled. It melted in your mouth. John was tired, so he just had BBQ ribs and chicken, not as exotic, but still excellent. The only drawback to dinner was the French fries with the BBQ . . . they were cool. A nice stroll along the beach was just the thing after dinner. While we were meandering, we noticed these strange tracks going all over the beach. As with all things, we got distracted by tracking down hermit crabs, but returned to our stroll along the beach. The largest hermit crab was about the size of Carolyn's fist. Sunday morning greeted us with the sun coming in through the patio windows, at about 6:15 am. That's what happens when you sleep with the windows and patio doors open. When we went to bed we were enjoying a wonderful breeze (that was also warm) that came off the water. It turned out that we were overlooking the Pillsbury Sound and the Windward Passage that separates St. Thomas from St. John. The breeze was there for our whole stay. When we were finally moving together, we gathered our snorkeling masks, and went to 'Dive In', the dive shop at the Sapphire. We were able to get the rest of our snorkeling gear free by being guests of the Sapphire. The snorkels were a simple 'J' tube, and the fins were the shoe type. From there we went to Snorkeling 101. Snorkeling 101 . . . getting the equipment on the correct body part, and walking backwards to the water. Followed by, learning to spit into your mask, and getting a good seal. Finally, how to purge your snorkel, while breathing 20 (to 200) times a minute. Snorkeling 102 . . . how to relax while floating facedown in the water. It took some doing, but Carolyn finally relaxed enough to swim over the coral reef at the Sapphire for about 35 minutes. Then back to the beach for some sun while, John spent the next 45 minutes in the water. It was breath-taking, and the colors were vibrant. You have to try it at least once. There is Staghorn coral, Elkhorn coral, Brain coral (including Smooth, Giant, Grooved, and Butterprint), Long-spined sea urchins, Common sea fans, Venus sea fans (they're green), Barrel sponge, Giant tube sponge, Sheet coral, Club finger coral, and this just included the stuff that didn't move. There were Spiny spider crab, Parrotfish (including Redband, Stoplight, Midnight), Groupers, Bigeye, Blackbar soldierfish, Sergeant major, Bar jack, Yellow jack, Blue tang (and the yellow juvenile Blue tang), Spotted goatfish, Trunkfish, Spotfin butterflyfish, and Reef squid. There were more but you could only remember so many new things at one time. We would float on the surface in anywhere from 2 to 12 feet of water, and still be able to see ahead over 25 feet. After swimming, we went to the gift shop to check on stocking up on some necessities . . . soda, milk, coffee, food. Well, almost everything is imported to the islands and the prices reflect that. Cans of soda were $1, or $3.95 for a six pack. A quart of milk was $1.60. A single Dove bar was $2.75. OK, time for just the basics, sodas, milk, and granola bars ($3.25 for a box of 12.) The Sapphire supplied a welcome basket, which included a bottle of Brut, champagne glasses, crackers, cheeses, jellies, smoked oysters, bottle of Virgin Island Rum and a can of coke. For just the two of us . . . just the cheese, jellies and crackers were plenty. Let us back track for a minute. These villas have two levels. On the first level, from the door in, there is a full bath with shower, closet with a safe, dining area, and kitchenette - sink, full refrigerator, four burner stove, oven, microwave, toaster, coffee pot, fully equipped for six. Proceeding toward the patio is the TV and king size couch (convertible to a king bed) and several chairs. The patio has two lounges and a small table. The second level has another full bath, closets, king size bed with end tables, a dresser, coffee table, and another king sized couch which also converts to a king bed. The patio on the second floor again has two lounges and a small table. Better equipped that most hotels and more comfortable than camping. There apparently is only one K-mart on the island, and it is in a mall with a grocery store. It is located at Tutu, which is inland and about halfway between the east end and Charlotte Amalie. The Sapphire can arrange a shuttle to various parts of the island, all with fixed times. So we signed up for the shuttle to Tutu for 4:30. The shuttle is slightly cheaper than the taxis for getting from one place to another, but apparently not as reliable. We were waiting from 4:15, and at 4:45 we took a taxi. If we had realized that everything closes (except K-mart and the grocery store) at 5:00 p.m., we might have left earlier, but we got there just as all the stores in the mall were closing. Well, a K-mart is a K-mart, but one of their advertisements mentioned snorkeling equipment, and we had decided to get Carolyn her own snorkel with a purge valve (to cut down on the salt water ingestion). K-Mart didn't have it. A 12 pack of soda was only $3.95 here, and the coffee was also cheaper . . . everything was cheaper than the Sapphire's gift shop (surprise). The groceries were another story. They were still cheaper than the Sapphire, but bring some of your own. For example, the polish kielbasa that you can get locally for $2.00 at times, were $4.00 each. Milk was in the upper $3 range, and the cereals were $ .50 to $1.50 more expensive. Now on the other hand the Vodka was between $5 to $8 a fifth (or a liter). Now loaded with groceries, the adventure back to the Sapphire began. The regular taxis sort of bypass the mall after 6:00 p.m., so that leaves it open to gypsy cabbies. The majority of the taxies are full size, 9 to 15 passenger vans with air- conditioning, clean, comfortable, and licensed. The gypsies are small cars, and not licensed as a taxis, and generally not allowed to wait at hotels, resorts, and the airport for fares (the Sapphire usually has at least 2 waiting at all times). Well, our ride back was in a small car that at every time the driver slowed down, the engine stalled. I'm not really sure how much was holding the car together. We've been in worse vehicles, but I can't remember when. It's also another sensation to sit lower to the ground when at night all the traffic is on the wrong side and they haven't reaimed the headlights. All the headlights are pointed at the oncoming traffic (except those with dented front ends, and then anything goes.) As long as we are talking about taxis . . . the islands have what appears to be a zone system, and the rates are lower for two traveling together that apart. For example, from the Sapphire to downtown Charlotte Amalie the single person fare is $7, but the two of us cost $11. Would a car rental be cheaper? For two, we don't believe so. We rarely went more than one place else during the day. So a downtown trip cost $22, but for four it would be $44 round trip. A car rental averages $49/day plus gas, and gas is $1.58 to $1.70 for a gallon of regular ($1.78 on St. John), plus parking in certain spots. We wouldn't suggest even taking a car from St. Thomas to St. John, leave it at the dock at Red Hook and take the ferry ($3.00/person/one way), and rent a car on St. John (but more on St. John later.) Sunday evening, after the taxi ride, was a nice relaxing dinner for two, with wine and a wonderful view. Monday dawned and promised to be overcast all day with a threat of rain in the evening. What better time to view a property, listen to a spiel, collect a voucher for $50 and some two for one offers and free cab fare. We called up and made an appointment for 10:00 at Bluebeard's Castle. Great, listen to someone for 45 minutes, collect our vouchers, and go shopping downtown. Well, we listened, we talked, we discussed, and we bought. It's a one week deeded time share at Bluebeard's Castle during week 51 (Christmas week, except in election years). There is a Bluebeard's Castle and a Blackbeard's Castle on the Island, and Bluebeard's Castle is the resort that is open. The salesman at Bluebeard's Castle treated us to lunch at the Terrace restaurant (one of three I believe at Bluebeard's). As with most of the Island restaurant food, excellent. Carolyn had the pasta salad, and John had the Caesar Salad with grilled shrimp. Again excellent, worth the trip to Bluebeard's Castle. Then on to downtown and "Shop till you drop," or at least that's what it ended up being. Carolyn had definite ideas of what she wanted to see and look at, John was just looking. Lots of tourist stuff, and lots of tourists. The liquor was significantly cheaper, as was the jewelry, watches, electronics (+/-), and camera equipment. Shirts are shirts, just the imprints are different, but then again, that's why you buy them. Into Little Switzerland, Royal Caribbean, and dozens of similar stores. Some of the small side streets have been closed, and converted to shopping areas or mini-malls. People are out on Main Street hawking the shops down the side streets or restaurants off Main Street. We looked at diamonds, aquamarines, and opals, opals, opals. In Amsterdam Sauer, Carolyn found a brilliant 3.35 carat Opal that she really liked, and she was able to walk out with it (yes, it was paid for) as a 25th anniversary gift (not the trip wasn't). Now all she has to do is decide on a setting for it (a ring has been decided). Around 4:30 to 5:00 the downtown area started to clear out. The taxi drivers kept offering "Back to the ship, mon?" Apparently all the cruise ships want everyone back on board by around 5:00 for dinner and getting ready to set sail for their next port, so the downtown shops really clear out, and everyone closes. We're talking about rolling up the sidewalks on the stroke of 5. We walked around until 5:30-6:00 and then decided to head back to the Sapphire. Bluebeard's Castle was having a small guest party that evening that we were invited to, but we were too tired to go there, and besides it really looked like rain. And rain it did, buckets and buckets. Wise choice. Another nice little dinner for two with some more wine. The next morning, we awoke to rain, drizzle, and clouds. Another excellent day for shopping, or so Carolyn says. It really isn't great for swimming in the salt water, because the sunshine really makes the swim. Carolyn dragged John back to the Royal Caribbean and bought John the camera he was looking at on Monday. One of those hawkers had a coupon for a free drink at the Greenhouse, and he hit us twice before lunch, so we had two coupons. The Greenhouse is on the harbor of Charlotte Amalie, real close to the Hard Rock Cafe. It is an open restaurant, with a moderately priced menu and great food. Carolyn had the fried shrimp, while John had the pasta and shrimp. Worth going to and worth going back to. Further shopping brought us to the famed "99 Steps", just as everyone else was leaving town for their ships. These steps go from main street up to Blackbeard's Castle. And they go up, and up, and up. Unfortunately, Blackbeard's was a restaurant-hotel that has not reopened since hurricane Marilyn in 1995. So it's also a long walk down. Guest services at the Sapphire was having a presentation that evening so it was back to the Sapphire. Their presentation included, "Here are the trips and things we can help you arrange while you are here," but they also had some nachos and Carolyn discovered the "Painkiller." Carolyn, who for the last 25+ years has liked Harvey Wallbangers, has found a new drink. A Painkiller is: 151 rum, orange juice, pineapple juice, Coco Lopez, and nutmeg. Tuesday was topped of with a quiet dinner for two in our room. Wednesday greeted us with sunshine pouring in through the windows. With seven (7) cruise ships expected in the harbor, the planning for today was simple . . . snorkeling and sunshine, and more snorkeling and sunshine. There was a manager's special that evening with drinks, snacks, and music. Out on the patio, (there is no enclosed lounge . . . everything is open.) The music was typical and as expected ( a touch louder than we care for). We retired to the Seagrape for dinner, near enough to hear all the music, but not so near that our hearing was damaged. Carolyn tried the Veal Scalopini and John went after the Blackened Mahi Mahi. This time we talked to the waiter and related our concerns from Saturday evening, and everything was perfect. The veal was tender and the blackened fish was outstanding. Again a walk on the beach chasing down hermit crabs, and waves were the end to a perfect day. Just for the record, we don't believe the temp ever dropped below 75 degrees in the nights, and the 85 plus days were not humid or uncomfortable. Thursday we awoke to a day at least equal in promise to Wednesday. The Sapphire was wonderful. Good location, good facilities, good staff . . . they were also offering time shares, so Thursday morning we listened to their talk. Their plan was a floating week - 40 year lease at the Sapphire. That just didn't have the requirements that we were looking for (no tax deduction). Then over to Red Hook and the ferry to Cruz Bay on St. John. The ferry takes all of twenty minutes. After being bombarded on the dock by the taxi drivers and hawkers for car rentals or tours, we walked around Cruz Bay on our own tour. We visited the National Park service area, and picked-up some postcards, maps, and fish identification cards. On the north edge of Cruz Bay is a place called Mongoose Junction. You'd have to experience it to understand it. Different buildings, different levels, different walkways, and loads of different shops; all interconnected. We had lunch at the Mongoose Restaurant, which is as close to a deli as you can find in that part of the world. Tuna salad on fresh bread was wonderfully different, yet similar to home. For the next two hours we walked and shopped, and walked and shopped, and walked some more. We found where we wanted to have dinner that night, we just had to take care of about two more hours. What better way than a tour of St. John. There were only two other people besides us on the tour, and we were on a open air taxi again - just marvelous. The driver would just pull over and stop, then get out and explain whatever we were looking at. But when the driver would pull over, it would depend on which side of the road he wanted to show us something. No matter where we went, the views were breath-taking, just like the postcards . . . in fact some of them were the same as the postcards. We saw some reefs we want to snorkel the next time we come to visit. We came down the hill to Cruz Bay and the end of the tour just after sunset. A very enjoyable tour. We saw the Hyatt, which hasn't reopened yet, Caneel Bay, which just reopened. We were able to tour the Annaburg Sugar and Rum factory ruins, and visit the National Parks campground. All the views of the island from the ridges or above the bays, they were just beyond description. Picture postcard perfect. Dinner was as Pusser's on Cruz Bay. A very commercial place with its own store for cups, clothes, rum, after shave, even underwear. Carolyn was able to have her Conch fritters, and a chicken chef's salad, while John went after a White and Black Tuna (white and black sesame seeds on a filet of tuna) and Shepherd's pie. The salad dressing was a local mixture of the chef. Carolyn's Painkiller was not quite up to snuff. Their recipe calls for 95 proof rum and no Coco Lopez. (it's the Coco Lopez that makes the difference - john.) A nice stroll back to the dock and we were able to get right on the ferry. Friday, we were originally planning on returning to St. John to do some snorkeling on their reefs, but John was slightly under the weather (so to speak . . . it was still clear, dry and warm), so we spent the day on the beach and snorkeling at the Sapphire, dreading the trip home on Saturday. The Sapphire had a steel drum band Friday evening and dinner for two at the Seagrape, the way to end a beautiful day. Carolyn went for the chicken and shrimp fettucine, which was excellent. John ordered the blackened Atlantic Salmon, just like Carolyn's Atlantic Salmon from Saturday evening, this melted in your mouth, with all the taste of a blackened dish (OOP's, I just drooled on the keyboard). Of course there was the required nighttime beach stroll back (still following the hermit crab tracks, plus other stuff). We had just gotten there, it couldn't be time return already . . something had to be wrong. Yelp, it was Saturday and we had to come back to reality (read that as work). We had confirmed our airport shuttle on Friday, and they were there 10 minutes early (surprise, we were 15 minutes early). There was method in our madness. After another relaxing drive from one end of the island to the other, we were at the airport . . . 5 hours before our flight. We checked our bags, and got a taxi back to downtown with about three and a half hours to spend walking all over. Carolyn was finally able to find a shirt with at least one iguana on it. Why an iguana? Well these things are everywhere . . . there were no less that five different ones at the Sapphire. You would find them on the grass or large rocks in the sun. Including the tail, they ranged from 18 inches to just over 3 feet, would eat the hibiscus flowers, and just leave if you got too close. They seemed to be just a little more sedate than their smaller relatives . . . the smaller relatives looked like chameleons, ran like chameleons, but we couldn't see one long enough it see if they changed colors. We returned to the Greenhouse for lunch and tried to soak up as much St. Thomas as possible . . . the sights, the streets, the people, the bay, the buildings, the warmth. It was about 90 degrees Saturday afternoon, not like the 40 degrees that met us when we returned home. We had packed long pants and sweatshirts in one of our smaller bags, so we had something to change into at the Airport. We put off returning to reality as long as possible. Are we returning? Fifty four weeks and counting.
Spent the week of 11/17 on Provo at Ocean Club. Although there is no night life at this resort it is an excellent property with very friendly and helpful staff. Highly recommend the half-day snorkeling/beach cruise with Sand Dollar tours. The snorkeling at the reef is outstanding - beautiful coral, lots of fish and clear water. We were joined by two wild dolphins(not Jojo) who hung around for our entire hour of snorkeling. After snorkeling we were taken to an uninhabited island for shelling, to a sandbar to snorkel for sand dollars and then to Iquana island to observe Iguana in a protected environment. The four hour trip with refreshments was $40. We also enjoyed snorkeling off-shore at Smith's reef where we saw sea turtles and more coral and, of course more fish including a large barracuda. We were disappointed with the snorkeling at the White House. Locals claim the Club Med boats have severely damaged the reef at this location. Restaurants we enjoyed: Caicos Cafe, Coco Bistro, Tiki Hut, Banana Boat and Gecko's. Avoid Dora's- the food was poor and cold and the place appeared unsanitary. The night we went they had advertised live music but all we got was World Federation Wrestling on TV. The local lobster is excellent especially served grilled. Renting a car for at least part of the week is advised - the taxi's are outrageous - they charge by the person. For two people to go to dinner at one of the nearby restaurants costs $16 round trip. There is a beautiful and secluded beach on the northwest corner of Provo that requires a 4-wheel drive vehicle to get to but the bumpy 5 mile trail is worth it. Although I am an avid golfer and there was a beautiful 18 hole course across from the Ocean Club, I couldn't get myself away from the superb beaches, pristine waters and the snorkeling to swing a club. I already miss the sunsets and warmth of the island and its people and writing about it brings back wonderful memories.
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Contact: Paul Graveline, 9 Stirling St., Andover, MA 01810-1408 USA :Home (Voice or Fax) 508-470-1971.
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