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Caribbean Travel RoundupNewsletter - Paul Graveline, Editor |
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Trip 1/00 Grand Lido Negril, P.O. Box 88, Negril, Jamaica, West Indies PHONE (876) 957-5010-8; FAX (876) 957-5517 Walking through the resort, guests can be seen wearing these Grand Lido T-shirts. The backs of which read "We do Lido again and again." The first time we visited Grand Lido Negril - five years ago- I thought to myself, "Why would people want to come to the same place over and over and over again? That's crazy ... There are other places to visit." That was fifteen Jamaican vacations ago, ten of which were based at Grand Lido Negril. I now understand why some people choose to visit again and again. Destination Jamaica: What's so great about it? 1. Raw beauty. The impression of gray rock cliffs plunging into the raging Caribbean water sprays are contrasted by tranquil, smooth, white sand beaches with gently lapping waves. Nearly iridescent, the hues of Jamaica's water glow green and blue. Foliage radiates every imaginable color of green, whether hibiscus and palm carefully landscaped on resort property, or bamboo, banana and coconut palm growing wildly in the dense hills of the island. Sunsets are postcard perfect and the stars are never so vivid as they are on a cloudless night in Jamaica, with even the smallest twinkling brightly at the beach below. The sounds of Jamaica are exceptional, too. Hidden tree frogs make their vocal appearance only after sunset when they lull islanders to sleep. Whether mild or rough, the waves seem to roll in a round of three; quiet, louder, loudest. Every once in a while the squawk or chirp of a bird wakes visitors from their vacation-state of mind. Human nature is at its finest in Jamaica, too. The spirit of the Jamaicans is beautiful. Patience is a virtue, a way of life. Sharing is never given a second though, it just happens. Friendliness is ever- present and humor is a necessity. One will find the resort workers to be genuine and kind, and the locals are the same. 2. The rhythm. Along with nature's sounds, the Jamaican tempos of reggae and soca are unique, even to the Caribbean. The tropical beat, heard almost everywhere, challenges even the laziest of moods. Feet tap, hands clap and hips swing to the sounds of the island. 3. The pace. My husband and I often say we have a 'love and hate relationship' with Jamaica. I remember the first time we were shown from the lobby to our room by Lorna, who is now the front desk manager. We were so excited to be at Grand Lido. It was our fist vacation in a long time: we were looking forward to seeing our accommodations for the next seven days and then going on to check out the resort. But, Lorna was walking at a slow pace, stopping to talk and explain things to us. Couldn't we walk and talk at the same time? We found the same pace among most every Jamaican we encountered. At first, we found it irritating. That was then...once the vacation set in, we found that we, too, had picked up, or shall we say, slowed down to the Jamaican stride. It is a wonderful diversion from the hectic rate to which we are accustomed and makes for a great vacation. And, as hot as it can get down there, the pace is certainly understandable. We now look forward to adapting to the pace of Jamaica. To slow down, stroll along and relax, that is what vacation is all about, isn't it? Here's where the 'hate' part of the 'love and hate relationship' comes into play ... Travelers should remember to pack a dose of patience in their luggage to be prepared because we Westerners simply are not accustomed to the stride. While it is enjoyable for a time, most will find it nice to return to the world of 30-minute pizza deliveries and automated teller machines. The time challenge is magnified by a mis-translation of terms. To help prepare the traveler, here are the actual meanings of a few commonly used terms: No Problem. Jamaicans are famous for saying 'No Problem' and it usually has a good connotation. But there are various translations ... Sometimes it means "absolutely." Sometimes it means: "glad to help." And, sometimes it means: "I'm listening, I hear you, but there really is not much I can do, so I'm going to tell you no problem. Que sera, sera." Simply put, 'No Problem' is an acknowledgment. Soon. Question, " When will you return?" Answer, "Soon." … In Jamaica "soon" doesn't always mean "soon." Sometimes it means five minutes, sometimes it means next week. "Taxi be here soon," could actually mean it is just around the corner, but it could mean that they have not gotten around to calling one yet and you should be patient. If one isn't not sure what the context of "soon" is, one should ask: "Does that mean in the next half hour? Or does that mean I should go lay on the beach until next week?" 4. Weather. There is a reason that SuperClubs is able to offer a 'No Sun' policy ... the sun shines most every day. Our most recent visit to Jamaica allotted only two individual rain showers that lasted about 10 minutes each. While, it may get windy and the sky may drop a bit of rain in the afternoon, we've yet to experience a day that was not warm. Even the clouds are pretty in Jamaica. We love the predictable climate, and who wouldn't? Ten visits to Grand Lido Negril, Why? In addition to the varied beauty of Jamaica, Grand Lido Negril has its own unmatched attributes. 1. A warm welcome. We anticipate the "Welcome Home" which is bestowed upon us at with each return. The familiar faces remember us and greet us warmly, as if we are returning to our summer cabin ... with much better weather. 2. Subtle grace. While the resort is elegant, it is not pretentious. The spaciousness of the resort makes it comfortable and airy. There are days that the resort is full and we'll wonder, "Where is everybody?" There is just so much acreage of beach and activity area in which guests may disappear. With so many options, the only time it may seem full is at mealtime. The vibes can be really fun and playful, still guests are treated to first- rate service and attention to detail. The grounds are elegantly manicured with every type of tropical plant imaginable. Restaurant service is consistently pleasant. 3. Put the money away. Certainly adding to the 'less stress, more fun' feel of our Grand Lido Negril vacations has been the all- inclusive aspect. It is such a relief to put away the cash and credit cards for an entire week. We are no dummies; we know we pay up- front. Yet there is something liberating about not having to deal with cash exchanges every single time we belly-up to the bar or need a cup of coffee. Meal decisions are never made on the basis of cost. Normally, if a person were not terribly hungry, they would not choose a continental restaurant for dinner. With the all-inclusive aspect, we can go out for a 'little bite' in any restaurant, maybe only order one course, and not feel bad or like we have wasted money. Still, we are able to enjoy the nice ambiance. No offense Ronald, but it sure beats the Golden Arches for a light dinner! 4. No tipping. It is amazing to see people so interested in making a guest's stay enjoyable, even without vision of great tips dancing through their heads. At GRAND LIDO NEGRIL, everything is included … that means tips, too. While vacationers sometimes wonder if that is appropriate, they should know that employees are not to accept tips. Giving an employee a tip can lead to their immediate dismissal. Visitors should know Grand Lido employees are paid well by Jamaican standards. Plus, a certain percentage of the hotel's income is allotted for gratuity that is distributed to all staff, from housekeeping and grounds to wait staff and laundry. Many employees have told us that the gratuity is, many months out of the year, greater than their salary. In lieu of cash tipping, the friendly words 'please' and 'thank you,' accompanied by a warm smile are the only gratuity needed. 5. Location, location, location. As beautiful a the grounds are, so is its setting. To walk the expanse of beach that curls around Bloody Bay is like a walk through the Pearly Gates. We were able to enjoy pristine beach for a couple of years, until two new resorts popped up along the beach adjacent to Grand Lido Negril. Still, beyond the soon- to-be- completed Beaches resort to the North, walking the beach is just as enjoyable as ever. 6. Removed from reality, with modern communications. Try as we might, it is a challenge to completely forget that the entire world around us exists. To check in, we are thankful for in-room telephones, internet hook up via InfoChannel (which must be arranged ahead of time, www.infochan.com), and satellite television at the resort, especially CNN. 7. Robust coffee. Java, brew, Joe: whatever you call it, the coffee is awesome. Anyway you pour it, the coffee is great, and it tastes even better there than it does at home. What to expect, arriving to Grand Lido Negril. The 22-acre resort is located on the shore of Bloody Bay, which is located northeast of Negril's world-famous seven-mile beach. After arriving Jamaica via Montego Bay's Sangster International Airport, GRAND LIDO NEGRIL is a one and a-half hour drive west, on a nasty, bumpy, winding road. The road is not pleasant, but one can learn a lot about Jamaica by observations made along the way. Guests planning to arrive into Montego Bay with enough daylight left have the option of arranging a 15-minute flight to the unlit single-strip Negril Aerodrome located directly across the street from the resort. Grand Lido Facilities: Guests arrive through the main entrance hall and are guided through the marble lobby and into the lounge for guest registration. Here is a summary of Grand Lido Negril facilities, grounds and amenities. The main building, which includes the Terrazza, Main Bar, Lobby and Lounge, Main Desk, Piacere, LaPasta, Café Lido, Amici, Games Room, Atlantis Disco, Video Theater, Library, Salon Delores, Nurse's Office, Boutique/Duty-free Shop and Gift Shop. (All are described below) Lobby -- Home to a collection of art available for sale from Chelsea Gallery. This is also where afternoon tea is served. Lounge -- Just beyond the lobby and front desk, an airy lounge area is the stage for registration and is a great gathering point throughout the week. The concierge's desk and the tour desk are located here. The Terrazza – (Sometimes called the Gran Terrazza) This is the spot for buffets, as well as lunchtime and evening entertainment. Amici -- For Karaoke or great music by the resident pianist, Ike, the piano bar is a quiet place to have a drink and conversation. Games Room – Offering backgammon, board games, cards, dominoes, pool tables, ping-pong, and a small collection of slot machines. Atlantis Disco-- Adjacent the Games Room, the Atlantis Disco starts rockin' at about 10:30 each night. Video Theater – Open 24-hours a day, the video theater offers a big screen satellite television and use of a VCR (tapes available from concierge). Library – Available are books, magazines, and newspapers – limited quantity and selection (guests seem to "forget" to return items). Boutique/Duty-free Shop and Gift Shop – toiletries and munchies are expensive, but when in need, one can buy! Compare gift items with those in the market across the street, and one will find the prices at the gift shop are very fair. Salon Delores -- Although hair services are not included in the all-inclusive rate, across the open-air hallway from the gift shop is Salon Delores which offers every guest the opportunity for a good hair day. Staysie, the beach walking hair-braider works for Salon Delores and offers authentic Jamaican hair braiding to guests right on the beach if so desired! Nurse's Office -- It is comforting to know that a nurse is available on property. Piacere, LaPasta, Café Lido -- described below in restaurant section. Eight Bars – the main bar on the Terrazza, the Amici Piano Bar, Atlantis Disco, three clubhouse bars, main beach bar, C/O beach bar. Club Houses – Stone, Timber and Beach House – each offers a light menu, a bar, whirlpool and terrace. Fitness Center – The air-conditioned gym is divided into two areas. Treadmills, Stairmasters, stationary bikes are located in one, with free-weights and resistance training equipment in the other. The equipment is excellent. Patrick, the resident instructor is pleasant and helpful. Aerobics deck -- Now a year old, this exercise area is adjacent to the main pool yet out of view of the Terrazza. A beautiful seascape provides a great backdrop for sweat and heavy breathing ... of exercise. Spa Area - The newly constructed spa area is peaceful and beautiful. Facilities include a plunging pool, steam room and sauna. It is professionally run, but not ostentatious. Daily spa hours are 9 AM – 6 PM. The former assistant spa manager from Grand Lido Sans Souci, Millicent, came to GRAND LIDO NEGRIL to run the spa. Spa services are charged to the room, and no tipping is allowed. Three massage huts – each overlooking the ocean, these can be breezy but pleasant place for a massage. Four Tennis Courts - There are two on either end of the resort, one by the Beach House, and one on the C/O side. Two courts are lit for evening play. Golf - is available at Negril Hills, see the concierge. Large pool/whirlpool area - Adjacent to the Terrazza and directly on the ocean this pretty pool area is newly tiled, kept neat and clean with plenty of towels and chaises and foam cushions. Clothing Optional (C/O) whirlpool and pool area -- The beach bar and grill on the C/O side of the resort is much nicer than it once was. A year ago, the deck around the pool was expanded to make room for additional chaises, and now they have completely resurfaced the deck to be prettier. Watersports - The watersports center is located on the main beach. Available watersports include wind surfing, sailing on sunfish and catamarans, water skiing, kayaking, snorkeling, water tricycles, water "bicycles," glass-bottom boat rides. Instruction for each water sport is included. Although Grand Lido Negril does not offer para- sailing, it is available for a charge by letting a watersports staff person know, who will then call over an area para-sail boat. SCUBA – daily dives are offered for beginners and PADI certified divers. A resort course is available. International PADI certification is available for an additional cost. Resident Yacht – Originally given as a gift from Aristotle Onasis to Grace Kelly and Prince Ranier of Monaco as a wedding gift, the motorized yacht Zein is 147 feet long and a graceful beauty. The M/Y Zein offers a daily sunset cruise, weather permitting. There are a couple other cruises available throughout the week, including a morning C/O trip. Reservations with concierge are required for the pleasant cocktail cruise that takes all aboard past Rick's Café and the Negril Light House on the West End. It includes entertainment and light appetizers. The Zein is a beautiful place for a wedding, as well. If the M/Y Zein is in dry dock or out for maintenance, another boat is contracted by the hotel to provide a sunset cruise. Laundry and Dry Cleaning -- Valet laundry service is available at no charge. Guests must simply press the 'valet/laundry' speed dial button on the in-room phone before 10:30 AM. A worker then picks up the bag of your clothing, which may be left just inside your door with appropriate paperwork. Valet orders are returned to your closet within two days. Two Beaches -- A main beach and clothing optional beach are arguably the most beautiful of beaches on that side of the island. The C/O beach offers intermittent areas of crashing waves on a rocky shore and along a sand beach. The "textile" or main beach is clean and wide with white sand … very few rocks and shells wash onto the beach, which is groomed daily. The main beach continues on to the northeast, separated by only a guard's post, where a new Couples resort recently opened, and where, further along, a Breezes resort is under construction. Guest Rooms -- All beachfront and ocean view room blocks are built two levels high, with open-air covered walkways connecting the backside, and paved paths connecting the oceanfront side of each room. The resort is home to 200 sleeping rooms and a few deluxe executive suites, as well as one grandiose Presidential Suite. The suites are located on the main beach between the watersports building and the first room block. The junior suite -- This is the standard room type. It is divided into two areas: a raised bedroom and a sunken lounge area. Both sections of the rooms are tiled, as is the bathroom. The furniture and window treatments are tasteful and in fair condition. The lounge area includes a love seat, floor lamp, a coffee table, a TV stand complete with satellite television, a CD/cassette/radio boom box, and a table lamp. There are no screens or glass on the two small windows that face the ocean, only lockable louvers which allow the ocean and tree frog sounds in at night. In-between the two small windows is a patio door; upstairs rooms have a tiny balcony, downstairs rooms have a beachside patio (if it is a beachfront or ocean-view room). The ceiling fan and air conditioner are located on the lounge side of the suite. The sleeping area of the room includes a bed with bedside lamps and a telephone. Across from the bed is an attached wood vanity with upholstered vanity chair and a lamp, and a full-length mirror. Hotel information is available in the folder found on the vanity, including laundry information, room service menu, spa 'menu', in-house phone numbers, etc. There are more than enough pillows to choose from. Near the entrance of each room is a built-in armoire which houses a mini safe, a built-in dresser, three shelves with vanity top, a light and mirror. There is a coffee/tea maker on the vanity next to the electrical outlet. A dispenser in the bathroom tub/shower has shampoo, bath gel and lotion. Towels abound! A hair dryer hangs on the wall in the bathroom, next to the sink and mirror-- but if you're used to a standard hair dryer, this one may not be powerful enough to dry your hair. Louvered-glass windows help to keep air circulating. Daily maid service includes full cleaning in the morning and turndown service in the evening. Dining Information GRAND LIDO NEGRIL has added "heart healthy" notations on most menus to guests interested in making wise choices. BREAKFAST AND LUNCH BUFFETS, on the Terrazza: Breakfast 8:00 – 10:30 AM; Lunch 12:30 – 3:00 PM. Attire is casual; cover-ups must be worn over swimsuits. Breakfast Buffet Menu: Hot items like sausages, bacon, eggs Benedict, scrambled eggs, breakfast fish, corned beef hash, French toast and pancakes; Bagels, muffins, English muffins, banana bread, whole wheat bread, multi-grain bread and white bread. Toaster and condiments like marmalade, jam, jelly, butter, cream cheese, locks, etc. Made-to- order omelets. Fresh fruit. Cheese display. Yogurt. Sweet rolls. Juices, coffee, tea, soda, mimosa (etc.) served at the table. Lunch Buffet Menu: Hot items differ from day to day; usually ethnic cuisine is featured (Mexican, Jamaican, Italian, and Oriental). Hot soup. Bread display. A newly added feature is the made-to-order sandwich and sandwich grilling station - wonderful. Cold salads and a salad bar. Desserts are incredible … a full dessert display and limited ice cream sundae bar is offered. Wine, coffee, tea, soda, juices and bar drinks are served at the table. STONE HOUSE, TIMBER HOUSE AND BEACH HOUSE: serve casual fare 24 hours a day. A full menu can be found on our website at http://members.aol.com/scharpfy/travel/homepage.html. Casual dress. 24-HOUR ROOM SERVICE: Being a coffee addict, I ordered room service two to three times a day … "coffee please!" Each time I ordered service arrived within 15 minutes, with only one exception. The room service menu is the same as that offered at the various 'houses', plus continental breakfast. Breakfast menu includes: cereal, toast, bakery basket, assorted yogurt, fresh fruit plate, cottage cheese, Blue Mountain coffee, decaffeinated coffee, tea, mango nectar, a large variety of juices, and milk. Guests need only to hang the order card on the door before 2:00 a.m. to order from a limited continental breakfast menu that will be delivered at the time you request (between 6:00 and 10:00 AM). LA PASTA: Fine Italian Cuisine. This is my favorite of the restaurants because of its casual nature, guests may dine inside or out, and the food quality is tremendous. The menu at LaPasta formerly changed every four or five days. While we were there this visit, it change only once, after the first night, and we were disappointed. We asked a manager about it and found that plans were in the works to begin rotating the menu again. Casual Dress. 3:00 PM – 2:00 AM daily. A full menu can be found on our website at http://members.aol.com/scharpfy/travel/homepage.html. If you don't see just what will settle your palate, ask for a deviation from the menu (i.e. a plain red sauce or "no mushrooms"). LaPasta's staff tries to accommodate special requests. Three or four desserts are displayed on a cart near the front of the restaurant. CAFÉ LIDO: Continental Dining. Smart Casual Dress, no shorts. The service and food here is just as fine as the French restaurant, with the exception of a sorbet palate cleanser and white gloves. I like this place because my husband doesn't have to wear a coat to dinner and we still are treated like royalty. Seating 6:30 – 10:00 PM daily, except Friday. No reservations. A full menu can be found on our website at http://members.aol.com/scharpfy/travel/homepage.html. The meal is accompanied by a basket of bread and full wine service. Dessert is listed on the menu and includes a selection of five or six tantalizing items. If you're a Plane-Jane eater, go ahead and order most any item without sauces, herbs, seasonings, etc. You may dine inside or out. PIACERE: Exquisite French Fare. Reservations required. Formal attire required, no athletic shoes, jackets required. Limited Seating. Contact the Concierge to make reservations. Open daily 6:30 - 9:30 PM. A full menu can be found on our website at http://members.aol.com/scharpfy/travel/homepage.html. Again, full wine service and a basket of breads accompany your meal. The service is impeccable and white-gloved. The menu here is as good or better than we've ever experienced anywhere in the United States. WEDNESDAY NIGHT - ISLAND BUFFET, 7:30 PM Menu: Hot items include regional favorites like curried goat, rice and peas, white fish cakes. Also included on the hot food line: vegetables, rice, fish, beef, chicken, pork and shellfish. Salad chef. Bread bar. Fresh fruit galore. Sushi. Crudite of fresh vegetables and dips. Cheese display. And more. Desserts are abundant … cakes, pastries, brule, tiramisu, biscottis, cookies, pies, cream cakes, and more. Wine, bar and coffee service is available at the table. Attire: spiffy causal to semi- formal FRIDAY NIGHT - GRAND GALA BUFFET, 7:45 PM Menu: Everything that is listed above … and way more! Usually more seafood and red meats. Lobster lovers note: SuperClubs respects the Jamaican regulations for lobster trapping and shows support for the season by not serving lobster, even imported or fresh-frozen lobster, when the season is closed. I don't recall when it is in- or out-of- season. However, SuperClubs serves other seafood and shellfish, like shrimp, scallops and crab, when the lobster season is closed. Wine, bar and coffee service is available at the table. Ask for a cappuccino if you so choose. Attire: spiffy causal to semi-formal Daily Activities. For a complete list of activities, ask the concierge for a copy of the daily activity sheet available through the concierge or at the front desk for activities while you are there … a copy of those activities available at the time of our visit can be found on our website at http://members.aol.com/scharpfy/travel/homepage.html. Here is a sampling of activities: Lunchtime show and activities; Interludes of live music throughout the resort; Evening showcase events and live performances by the house band; Tropical drink mixing and cooking; Karaoke; Beach volleyball; Nature walks; All types of aerobic, water aerobic, toning, weight and personal body conditioning; Cigar night; Various game tournaments and dance classes. A wide variety of daytime outings and tours are offered at an additional charge. Information and reservations are available by contacting the concierge. Other helpful Grand Lido Negril information. We arrived to GRAND LIDO NEGRIL late in the evening. Because we had landed at Sangster International Airport just before dusk, we were not able to charter a TimAir flight to Negril. We took Grand Lido supplied ground transportation. The road between Negril and Montego Bay is still experiencing the trauma of road construction, Jamaican style. The road is bumpy, windy and vehicles must cross from the existing road to the road under construction, even driving along the bumpy unpaved road in many instances. Just plan on it a ride full of jolt. One note: we find that the Jamaican drivers of the mini- busses supplied by Grand Lido are consistently good. They are accustomed to the roads; they know where the turns and the tight spots are. Entertainment at Grand Lido is colorful and of good quality. There are some fabulous local talents. Ike, the man tickling the ivories in the piano bar night after night, is one of the best performers we've seen. He could play in any club in any country and keep guests entertained for hours. We enjoy the services and the setting of the spa area. Of course, I enjoyed the complementary pedicure and manicure. But we also paid for a few massages and a facial, and we found it well worth the price. We were able to fly back to Montego Bay on TimAir, making our reservations through the concierge. However, for anyone wishing to make TimAir reservations directly, call 876/952-2516. Water quality is fine in Jamaica and at the resort. It is clean and actually tastes good, too. Wine lovers beware … wine at Grand Lido is fine or good, but not awesome. There are several Chilean wines that are good. French table wines have character and are enjoyable. But the Jamaican wines leave much to be desired. Pepsi and Coke are not quite the same as at home, but it is much better than when we first stayed in Jamaica. Diet Pepsi is now available on tap, too. Of course, nowhere is there a beverage like Red Stripe, so indulge. The coffee is great, sure to transform the rare drinker into an addict. Jamaican rum is heavy-duty. A little goes a long way and the bartenders don't pour drinks lightly. If one desires a lighter drink, just let the bartender know. Changes since our last visit. Terrazza Service -- A new system for serving beverages and clearing tables is in place for all of the buffets. Every waiter is now in charge of beverage service for guests. The improvement is such a relief and service is 100% effective. No more case of the missing drink at lunchtime! Overall, throughout the resort, meal and beverage service is up to par. Overall food quality and selection -- We were really pleased that there have been improvements here. A new chef has brought some common sense to the menus, with more variety and better quality. One great addition is a sandwich station at lunchtime. Guests' sandwiches are made to order from a variety of cold cuts, cheeses and vegetables. Grand Lido Negril did not eliminate anything on the menu to make room for this, so there is much more variety on the lunch buffet. Grounds and Maintenance -- On our prior visit, we became concerned that perhaps the resort was beginning to become run down, the grounds were just not as neat and clean as they had been. Much to our delight, there seems to have been a renewed focus on the upkeep of the facilities and the landscaping around it, a marked difference this trip. Once again the landscapers were out every day raking the grounds. Plantings are cared for. Workers are keeping up if the constant need for paint and re-finishing in the humid environment. Chairs are being scrubbed clean. There were no leaves in the pools. Garbage of lazy vacationers was picked up promptly, we think, because there was none lying around. Clothing Optional (C/O) Pool and Beach -- The C/O pool deck was expanded last year and so was the bar area there. Recently, the pool deck was resurfaced so the facelift is complete. The addition of a cocktail waitress to the nude pool and beach area is applauded. In addition to serving drinks to lounging guests, empty cups and food trays are picked up. Sand was added to one area of the beach expanding the sandy lounging area. All in all, the beach and pool area looks tidy and pretty. Beach Towels at Turndown -- Guest rooms receive two beach towels each night with turndown service. No more stockpiling of beach towels required at Grand Lido Negril. New General Manager -- Resort management had been in transition for the past two years with repeated modifications. Hopefully that is over. Many of the above improvements can be attributed to Mr. Brian Drew, Grand Lido Negril's new General Manager. He has been there long enough to have impact. From the perspective of other managers, Mr. Drew seems to be empowering all employees to make positive decisions on behalf of the resort, giving them authority and responsibility to make things happen positively. New Resident Manager, too -- Mr. Sylvan Walker has been with Super Clubs for some time. He made the move from Grand Lido Braco about a year ago and he seems to have what it takes. Plus, he is very friendly, smiles a lot, and seems to understand what guests want from their vacations. Smiles -- With the arrival of Mr. Drew and his management philosophy has come improved moral across the board. Employees are smiling more and they seem to be more interested in doing the little extra that makes a guest's stay luxurious. This change had the most impact on our stay being so enjoyable. Sleeping room air conditioning -- Old A/Cs have been replaced in most every room. They are quiet, can be controlled with remote control and are a great improvement. Temperatures are in Celsius, not Fahrenheit, so you might want to know conversions ... Fahrenheit to Celsius: C temp = 5/9(F-32); F temp = 9/5C (+32). For example, if C= 20, F temp =9/5x20(+32) =36+32 F temp =68 Bathroom tiles -- The transition of old to new tile in each of the guest rooms is now complete. Bathroom floors have been retiled in white and, overall, it makes the bathrooms look much nicer, cleaner and newer. A facelift for the Timber House -- During our stay, the Timber House was closed for renovation. We were able to watch as they re-surface the whirlpool area, removed everything from the upped deck, even the floorboards which were replaced. Lots of paint and varnish was used. Additionally, all of the iron beach chairs at all of the Houses had been repainted so they look brand new. Final note. We always evaluate our vacations carefully ... the result of our most recent Grand Lido Negril visit is more positive than it has been in several trips. We will return, and not soon enough!
If you seek an island where the Spanish influence still exists then Margarita Island (Isla de Margarita as it is locally known) is the place for you. Margarita island is THE tourist destination for Venezuelans. If you ever meet someone from Venezuela and you want to make a new friend, just say the words "Margarita Island" and their eyes will glaze over instantly with fond memories of this southern Caribbean island paradise. Margarita Island lies off the northern coast of Venezuela, about a 30 minute flight from Caracas yet in an entirely different world than the rest of South America. This island is also protected from the hurricanes that rake the rest of the Caribbean because it is south of the normal hurricane belt. The temperature is constant all year long. The normal temperature range is 87 - 92 degrees during the day and nighttime temperatures varying from 72 - 78 degrees. You are only 11 degrees north of the equator so there is essentially no temperature variation throughout the year. You will find many beaches on Margarita Island, as well as duty-free shopping and very old colonial towns with fortresses and historical churches. The trade-winds consistently blow across this landscape allowing the tropical climate to feel just a bit cooler than you would expect of an island located at 11 degrees north of the equator. Good package deals are available for a vacation if you find the proper sources who are knowledgeable about the southern Caribbean. Getting There It is said that the journey should be enjoyed as much as the destination. This belief certainly holds true for getting to and from Margarita Island. The primary route to Margarita Island is flying from Miami - Caracas - Margarita Island. You can fly a number of U.S. airlines to Caracas including American, United and Delta. From Caracas to Margarita Island the two airlines you can choose to fly are the Venezuelan airlines of Aserca or AeroPostal. Upon arrival in Caracas you pass through immigration and customs. Fill out the customs form supplied by the airline and put the number 21 in the place named Dias for the length of your stay. If you are only staying 1 week you just want to be safe so use 21 days for the length of your stay. Also, write Tourist in the Tipo de Visa (Type of Visa). Passports are required. Now smile, take a deep breath, try to remain calm and get ready for a real adventure: actually getting to Margarita Island! There are two major problems in getting to Margarita island. The first problem is the Caracas airport (Actually the Maiquetia Airport and officially named the Aeropuerto Internacional Simon Bolivar). This is where essentially all flights to Margarita Island depart. All international flights arrive at the international terminal but all flights to Margarita Island leave from the domestic terminal. You will have to get yourself from the international terminal to the domestic terminal. No doubt about it, you will loose money at this airport. The only thing you can do is limit your money loss but again, you will loose money here. The most common way to loose money is when you drag your bags out of customs and enlist the help of a porter for the trip to the domestic terminal. You have just lost between $10 and $20. That is the amount it will cost you to have the porter take your bags to the domestic terminal, about a 10 minute walk away. You need to attempt to set the price for this porter before you give him your bags. But even if the price has been set you will wind up paying more than the stated price once you arrive at the domestic terminal. It seems that inflation has just occurred during the length of your 10 minute walk. Yet you have to get your bags to the domestic terminal so just count on paying about $10 for this service. Now on the way out of the international terminal with the porter wheeling your bags on the cart, you will be approached by another person who will want to help you with your check-in at the domestic airline counter. When this person talks to you, you have just lost another $10 - $20. This person is useless and not required. This person will stand in line with you and give your ticket to the airline agent in the domestic terminal and you must pay him between $10 - $20 for no service what-so-ever. This is how you will loose money at the airport. Just consider the cost for going to the domestic terminal as part of your spending money. In addition, as a very stern warning, NEVER take a taxi to the domestic terminal from the international terminal. You will not arrive there. If for some reason you wish to venture away from the airport, say to go to a hotel, then you will be exposing a lot more money than merely taxi fare. Above all else, never leave this airport unless you are on your flight bound for Margarita Island (or you have friends who will meet you and transport you from the airport). The second problem in getting to Margarita Island is the Venezuelan airlines. Whatever you read in the guide books or hear from your travel agent always remember that the reality of getting from Caracas to Margarita Island is a bit different. The Venezuelan airlines seem to have forgotten about flight schedules in general. When they say your flight is on Saturday at 4 pm they really mean that your flight is on Saturday sometime in the afternoon, evening or early morning on Sunday. Eventually you will get your flight but the flight schedule is essentially meaningless in Venezuela. There is a departure tax that you will be assessed for flying from Caracas to Margarita Island by the domestic ticket agent at the Caracas airport. Pay this fee directly to the ticket agent when you are asked for it. This fee seems to change frequently but in January 2000 the fee was 2,000 Bs per person (about $3.00). There is one final money matter at the airport that you should be aware of. The Venezuelan airlines charge for extra bags and over weight bags, most of the time. It just depends on the mood when you check in and how closely they watch the scale. The fee is nominal but it is a hassle since you must pay for the extra weight before your boarding pass is issued. Sometimes this payment must be made at a separate counter and then you must get back in the ticket line to obtain your boarding pass. Try not to let your negative experience at the Caracas airport influence your entire trip. After all, the journey is ...! Money Matters Change about $100 in the US into Bolivars (the Venezuelan currency) before you board your flight to Venezuela. That amount of money will carry you through the airport hassles (see above) and get you to your hotel with a little spending money remaining. Once in Venezuela you pay for everything with Bolivars (or a credit card if you can). Margarita Island - Arrival Arriving at the airport on Margarita Island (Aeropuerto Santiago Marino) you will be pleasantly surprised at how peaceful, clean and modern this place is compared with the Caracas airport. You will think you have just arrived in another world, and you have. It is best to arrange for transportation to your hotel when you initially book your trip. Then everything will be taken care of for you. Simply pick up your bags from the carousel and say buenos (dias, tardes, or noches) to your driver as he helps you load your luggage into the waiting vehicle. If you have not made transportation arrangements, you will have to negotiate with a taxi for the fare to your hotel. These fares vary depending on the time of day you arrive and of course how far away your hotel is from the airport. Most hotels are very far away from the airport so be prepared with those extra Bolivars. The taxi fare to Porlamar is about $15.00 but to the further out hotels it could be as much as $20.00. The current taxi rates are posted at the information booth in the national terminal at the airport as well as in the tourist leaflet. Language Spanish is the language of Venezuela and is the language spoken on Margarita Island. Whatever the guide books tell you about many people speaking English, simply ignore that statement. Very few people speak English. Yet do not despair if your Spanish is limited or non-existent. Someone at the hotel, a tour guide, the rental car agency or some people in the restaurants will speak some English. Pantomime and pointing is also used very successfully by language deficient travelers! If you are really lucky your driver from the airport to your hotel will speak some English and then they can explain all of the additional tours they offer on and off the island. Where to Stay You should surf the internet and/or consult with a travel agent who has actually been to Margarita Island to help you find the type of accommodations that you want for your vacation. The entire spectrum of hotels and resorts exist on this island. Names, brochures and written descriptions will not necessarily be correct in helping you find the ideal place to stay however. If you are a first time visitor to the island I would suggest you stay at an all-inclusive resort. Most of the better and larger resorts are all-inclusive. Once you book one of these places you have freed yourself from worrying about where you will get your next meal, which can sometimes be a challenge here. I will make several suggestions based on my personal experience of where to stay on this island. Many of the hotels on Margarita Island characterize themselves in terms of stars: 5 stars being the best, 4 stars very good, etc. etc. What I have found is that 5 stars on Margarita Island means a hotel with exquisite grounds, a fantastic pool area, good beach access and/or a spectacular reception area. The star rating on Margarita Island does not refer to the type of room you will get, the quality of the food nor the quality of the hotel's staff. As an good example of the 5 star rating, the Hilton Hotel in Porlamar has a great beach, fancy lobby as well as nicely manicured grounds. Yet this hotel has small rooms that are old and not well maintained. But it does have cable TV! The point being that you should not choose a resort based on a hotel's star rating except to use the star rating when comparing hotels with one another on this island. For our first visit to to this island in February, 2000, my wife and I chose the Playa El Agua Beach Resort to stay. Playa El Agua Beach Resort is located adjacent to the most popular beach on the island, Playa El Agua. This hotel is rated a 4 star resort and the grounds show this high of a rating but not the rooms of course. This resort is an all inclusive resort so all your meals, drinks (alcoholic and non-alcoholic), and resort activities all included in the price. The resort has a specific area on El Agua beach, directly across the street. Chairs, awnings and beach front bar are all maintained on the beach and are part of the resort. The pool area is also very nice with two large pools adjoining one another. Chairs are placed around the pool for use once you tire of the beach scene. Another bar is located on the far end of the pool area. A good car rental agency is located right at the resort. Playa El Agua is one of the older and larger resorts on the island and always hosts an international guest list. Many Europeans choose this resort so they probably get a package deal. The food is good but no gourmet dining will be found here. We booked a suite which means that you have a separate sitting area and kitchen. The suite had essentially no view what-so-ever and the entire suite was really old and in need of remodeling. Cleaning of the room was done every day and the air conditioning, hot water and refrigerator all worked so I would give the room 2 stars. We booked our resort online through www.caribbean-trip.com and were extremely pleased with their service. The company provided transportation to and from the airport, hotel reservations and an English speaking representative who met us and also offered off- island tours. Another source of online information is www.margarita- island.com. Best Resorts Isla Bonita - Beach and Golf Hotel; Located on Playa Puerto Viejo, on the north/northwest part of the island. This hotel/resort has 312 rooms and is the newest resort on the island and probably the best resort on the island - all inclusive resort. Margarita Hilton - Located on Playa Moreno right in the city of bustling Porlamar. This hotel/resort has 280 rooms and lots of activity. It is also close to shops, restaurants and is the established expensive hotel on the island. Playa El Agua Beach Hotel - located adjacent (not on) the most popular and most active beach on the island: Playa El Agua. The resort has 299 rooms and cabanas. This is one of the older established resorts on the island with a lot of European guests - also an all inclusive resort. There are several hundred other accommodations on Margarita Island ranging from full resorts down to posadas (similar to bed and breakfast accommodations). Guides to additional places to stay can be found in the numerous travel guides and web sites available to the prospective traveler. Beaches (Playas) Every beach on Margarita Island will have its share of venders and merchants. It is nearly impossible to avoid them. You may think you have discovered the most deserted strand of beach and the minute you exit your car or taxi someone will be asking if you would like a chair, umbrella, drink, ice cream, etc. etc. A shake of the head and a smile will serve you well in these situations. Also, topless sunbathing on Margarita's beaches is acceptable although total nudity is prohibited by law. Playa El Agua - the most most popular beach on the island with the most activity. There are many restaurants, hotels, beach vendors and small shops on this beach. Activities include walking the 4km long beach, riding in an ultralight high above the water, or just lying under the palm trees which line the beach. Swimming too far from shore is not advised due to rough water conditions. Playa Caribe - 1 km long white sand beach with very colorful waters. There are a few beach bars which can be found on the western end of the beach but sun worshipers can find a bit of tranquility just to the east of the parking areas. Playa Puerto Viejo - this is the beach that contains Isla Bonita Beach Resort. It has fine white sand and somewhat calmer water in which to swim. Wind Surfing El Yaque is the place to windsurf on the island. World famous windsurfing events are held here and the calmer waters and strong winds make this an ideal beginner and expert windsurfing area. Accommodations at El Yaque are very basic but many windsurfers rent apartments or rooms by the month to improve their skills and just party at the numerous beach bars. If you have time it is a lot of fun to visit here for the day. Running I am a runner so no matter where we go on vacation I run. On Margarita Island I was able to run on the roads and of course through any of the resorts. The roads have the typical drivers on them so you have to constantly watch out for the traffic and always run against traffic. The roads will have some debris on them as well. Parts from cars, dead rodents, rocks, etc. are also running hazards. Running on the north and north west end of Margarita Island is very hilly and also provide for the best running on the island. There is also less traffic in these hilly areas. A 10 mile run (one way) can easily be done by running north on the main road from Playa El Agua beach and finishing at the small village of Pedrogonzalez on the northwest coast. Bring water along if you run in the heat of the day. I also said that you can run through the resorts. Being a foreigner with fair skin I am never stopped by the guards when I come to the gates of a resort. I simply go around the barrier or better yet the guards open the gates for me as I approach. You can run through Isla Bonita, Portofino Mare or any of the other resorts and just explore the grounds and beach areas while running. Many of these resorts are within reach from the Playa El Agua area. Touring the Island You can either rent a car, hire a taxi or take an organized bus tour of the island depending on your level of adventure. Car rental is certainly the less restricted way to tour the island but also the most adventurous. Driving on Margarita Island is not for the faint of heart. The roads are narrow, windy, crowded and without any major highway sign posts to guide you. You will get lost driving around the island no matter how well traveled you are. The more remote beaches can only be reached by car or taxi. Taxi's can be arranged through your resort or at Playa El Agua beach. We did not take a taxi so we cannot comment on their level of driving skills. An organized tour of the island may be best for the first time visitor. Leaving the driving to a professional will enable you to enjoy your vacation and not worry about running over something or someone as you careen down the road while trying to read the tour map and guide. An interesting area on Margarita Island to visit is the Peninsula De Macano. This area of land is really barely connected with the main part of Margarita Island by a narrow strip of low lying road. However, what a different part of the island this is! You will instantly be bombarded by a totally arid landscape with few inhabitants. This is the wild part of Margarita Island. Many beaches exist on this peninsula but there is little in the way of facilities or services so come prepared with food and water for your journey. Off Island Excursions Trips from Margarita Island to world famous Angel Falls, Los Roques and the nearby islands of Coche and Cubagua can also be arranged through your resort or online before you arrive. These trips are not extremely expensive but do take a larger amount of time for your vacation schedule. Final Thoughts Margarita Island is unlike any other island in the Caribbean. This southern part of the Caribbean Sea offers the vacationer a brief glimpse of what life was like before mega cruise ships and the power of the almighty dollar. Margarita Island also offers the intrepid traveler an excellent acclimatization route prior to exploration of the unabashed madness that is South America.
Most of us, at 4 A.M., were half asleep, as we climbed into our bus for the journey to the archaeological zone of Calakmul. I looked around at my fellow amateur explorers asking myself, "In our condition, are we ready for the 360 km (224 mi) journey?" Yet, everyone in our group had tumbled into the bus at this early hour, eager to leave Campeche, the first town to be settled by the Spanish in Mexico. Our goal was the 723,185 ha (1.8 million ac) largest tropical ecological reserve in Mexico. Edging Guatemala, it has been designated as a natural-historical reservation, in the midst of which were the ruins of the Mayan city of Calakmul. As the sun arose in the horizon, I could see the flat-shrub-filled landscape of the Yucatán Peninsula stretching away as far as the eye could see. Only rarely did tiny country villages or cultivated plots of land come into view. It seemed strange that a countryside which in Mayan times supported large urban centres, had virtually returned to its natural state. Apparently the technology of the modern age has not been able to overtake the farming techniques of the Mayans who produced enough wealth from this now almost barren land to support their huge ceremonial cities. The Mayans began their cultural development around 2000 B.C. and their civilization reached its apogee in the period from 600 to 900 A.D. During this era they achieved dazzling architectural, astronomical and calendrical heights. They invented their own writing and vigesimal systems and their celestial observatories established the different solar phenomena like eclipses. In addition, in those centuries, their economic and political systems compared very favourably with any of the advanced civilizations of the Mediterranean basin and Asia. Today, the descendants of this sophistication are still there, but the glory of their forefathers has long faded into oblivion. I reminisced about this long-gone civilization as we continued on our way to visit the ruins of one of their once important cities - some 3000 of which dot the Yucatán Peninsula's landscape. The never-ending sea of shrubbery was still with us when 300 km (186 mi) from Campeche we turned on a narrow road toward the ruins of Calakmul. Soon the shrubbery began to thicken into dense forest and the highway became ever-more winding as we drove through Biosphere Reserve, holding Calakmul - the largest archaeological site in Mexico and, after Tikal in Guatemala, the second largest city in the Mayan world. Ornamenting these relatively unknown Mayan ruins, Biosphere Reserve is a vast protected area of tropical forest. In it are to be found enormous trees, among which are the kapok, sapodilla, pich mahogany and Mexican fig. These look down on a low sub-perennial jungle composed of chacáh, dzalam, quaya calabash and nakax palm. In spots marshlands, bulrush areas and reed fields make Biosphere a mecca for wild animals. Amid this natural landscape are to be found a good number of wild animals and birds. Buzzards, eagles, peacocks, parrots, wild turkeys, deer, mountain cats, ocelots, tapirs, wild boars, yaguarundis, monkeys and majestic jaguars, live amid orchids and myriad types of flowers, many creeping up rare types of trees. A number of travelers have indicated that, at times, some of these animals parade before waiting visitors in a great range of colors and sounds, creating an aura of charm - almost magical in its appeal. However, from our bus we only saw one wild turkey crossing the road and a few monkeys playing in the treetops. After a five and a half hour drive from Campeche, we left our bus on the edge of the Calakmul ruins and entered a fenced-in area. As we walked along, every few minutes we would stop to admire a number of the 350 species of birds to be found in the Biosphere Reserve. Twice some half dozen deer crossed our path, but on seeing us quickly fled. Hearing rustling in the trees towering above the pathway, we stopped in our tracks. Above us, a half dozen howling monkeys were swinging from branch to branch as they fed on fruit. Not to alarm them, a woman in our group whispered to me as we walked along, "Look how beautiful they are. I just love them." No sooner had she moved a few metres away from me, then I heard her scream as she began wiping something from her clothing - one of those beautiful monkeys had defecated on her. It took us about 20 minutes to reach the first of Calakmul's restored structures - one of the 750 mapped in the 25 sq km (10 sq mi) area of this once thickly populated Mayan city. Its origin goes back to 400 B.C. and in the ensuing centuries it became wealthy and strong, vying with Tikal for power in the lands of the Maya. However, for centuries, it was lost in the mist of history, until discovered in 1931 by Cyrus Longworth Lundell. An exceptional historic site, Calakmul, meaning in Mayan `place of twin hills' - relating to its huge twin pyramids - has only a few of its buildings reconstructed or restored. The vast majority are still covered with foliage and trees. We know some of the history of this once powerful ceremonial centre, declared by the UNESCO as `Patrimony of Mankind', from the 120 stelae found spread around the structures. A large deposit of dynastic texts are etched in glyphic inscriptions on these stelae, much of which are still in the process of being deciphered. What has already been uncovered is that Calakmul was the dominant centre in the area. The deciphering of these inscriptions has revealed that it was a city with administrative, civil, political, religious and commercial functions and was the home of the elite in the region. Our first stop was the Great Acropolis where some half dozen structures have been, to some extent, restored. In a number of these buildings, the huge trees found growing through the ruined structures had been left in place, seemingly growing out of the restorations. Workers while restoring one of the imposing buildings found a tunnel linking it to the facing Ball Court. Legend has it that ballplayers used to go down to this underground passageway to play ball with the gods of the underworld. In another nearby structure, a mummy, which is believed to be the oldest found in the Americas, has been unearthed. In other palaces and religious edifices throughout the ruins finely polished jade masks and exquisite pottery have been discovered, indicating that the city had reached an advanced state of civilization. >From the Acropolis, we walked on a pathway through a humid jungle to a restored pyramid - the largest structure in Calakmul. 100 m (328 ft) long and towering 52 m (170 ft) high, its top looks down haughtily on the surrounding forest. Not too far away, its twin is still in the process of being released from the jungle and brought back to life. The pyramid's striking majesty, at first sight, took my breath away. Soon I was resting on its steps, thinking `it is yet another Mayan pyramid to conquer'. Through the years I have climbed dozens of these stairways to the gods and this one looked inviting. Along with a few brave souls from our group, I slowly climbed to the top. Weakened by the effort, I sat down on its crown. All around me, it was a world of lush greenery. The only islands in this emerald landscape were the tops of a few of Calakmul's structures breaking through the thick forest. On my eerie in the sky, I felt contentment. I was happy that at the age of 75 I could still climb the stairway to the gods, as had the Mayan priests of old. I thought to myself, "Perhaps, in that other world they would appreciate my effort." No doubt, they would be pleased that someone was still interested in their handiwork - their legacy to today's Calakmul's tourists. IF YOU GO How to Get There: From Campeche, there are bus tours to Calakmul. A trip by Destino Maya Tour to Calakmul costs $80. Also, one can rent an auto and drive. A small car rents for around $50. U.S. per day - less if you bargain or if not fussy about the auto. Two Good Places to Stay in Campeche: Ramada Hotel Campeche: the top hotel in the city, it is the centre of the town's social life. Tel: 981-64611. Fax: 981-11618. Daily cost of a room $90. Hotel Baluartes: one of the three four-star abodes in town noted for its fine restaurant. Tel: 981/63911. Fax: 981/62410. Daily cost of a double room $45. To Make the Calakmul Trip Complete, Stay Overnight at: Chicanná Ecovillage Resort, located less the 100 km (61 mi) from the ruins of Calakmul. An oasis in the middle of the jungle, it is a first class tourist development integrated into the environment. Within walking distance are the Mayan ruins of Chicanná (House of the Serpent), a small site built in the `Chenes' style. Its main feature is its plaza edged by four structures - very interesting to explore. Daily cost for double room about US$65. For Further Information, Contact: In Canada contact Mexican Government Tourism Office - 2 Bloor St. West, Suite 1801, Toronto, Ontario M4W 3E2. Tel: 416/925-0704. Fax: 416/925-6061; in the U.S.A. - 405 Park Ave., Suite 142, New York, NY 10022. Tel: 212/755- 726; or Toll-Free Assistance, from US/Canada 1-800-44 Mexico.
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