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Caribbean Travel RoundupNewsletter - Paul Graveline, Editor |
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(Ed. Note: Ed Buckley is assotiated with V.I. Divers, Ltd. (http://www.padi.com/vidivers.html)
This is a fairly comprehensive list of restaurants on St. Croix that
cater to our visitors and locals alike. As the restaurant business
is always changing, I suggest that upon your arrival onto the island
you pick up a copy of St. Croix This Week (the pink sheet) which
contains an up to date listing of restaurants. It's handed out on
many of the flights here.
________________________________________________________
Name of Restaurant BLD (Phone number)
(Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner)
Location
Description of food
"My comments are always in quotes"
Credit Cards they accept. None accepted if none listed.
________________________________________________________
Antoine's in Anchor Inn BLD (773-0263)
58A King Street, Christiansted
Alpine Cuisine and Seafood
AX, V, MC
Anything Goes Deli BL (773-2777)
Gallows Bay, Christiansted
Gourmet takeout and deli
Bombay Club LD (773-1838)
5A King Street, Christiansted
Steak, Chicken, shrimp, fish, sandwiches, and several daily
specials.
"Great roasted garlic and brie."
Air conditioned dining in the bar or air cooled in the patio.
AX, V, MC
Breezez BLD (773-7077)
Club St. Croix Condos
Salads, sandwiches, burgers and pastas for lunch while seafood,
including their flaming rum lobster, is their dinner specialty.
AX, V, MC
Cafe Du Soleil D (772-5400)
Prince Passage on Strant Street, Christiansted
Local fish, lamb, lobster, shrimp.
"Great Sunday brunch. Excellent place to catch a sunset."
AX, V, MC
Camille's BLD (773-2985)
53B Company Street, Christiansted
American, Steak, Seafood, Sandwiches, Salads
Cheeseburgers in Paradise LD (773-1119)
East End Road
"Wonderful cheeseburgers, burritos, chicken, pasta and daily
specials.
A real favorite hangout for the locals especially on weekends."
Live music Thu-Sun
MC, V
Columbus Cove BLD (778-5771)
Salt River Marina
Continental & Caribbean cuisine, seafood, and pasta, steak,
sandwiches. Great home made deserts.
Comanche LD (773-2665)
Strand Street, Christiansted
Seafood, Prime Rib, duckling, local fish, steaks
Reservations Requested
AX, V, MC
Company Street Pub LD (773-6880)
Company Street
Snacks, Sandwiches, salads, daily specials
"French Dip and Curly fries are wonderful."
Open till 4am
Cormorant Beach Club BLD (778-8920)
Cormorant Beach Beach Hotel
Continental & Caribbean Cuisine including salads and gourmet
sandwiches for lunch and a great Caribbean Night Buffet on Thursdays
with a floor show. Good Sunday Brunch spot too.
Reservations Requested
AX, V, MC, DC
Cultured Pelican LD (773-3333)
Coakley Bay Condos
Pasta, veal, and italian dishes along with an excellent stuffed
lobster.
Also a great Sunday Brunch.
"One of the best views on the island"
V, MC
Deep End Bar LD (773-4455)
Tamarind Reef Hotel
Light fare, sandwiches, salads
Down By the Bay BLD (773-2918)
Chenay Bay Beach Hotel
Continental & West Indian Cuisine
Different theme night every night including two west indian
buffets weekly..
Duggan's at the Reef LD (773-9800)
Teague Bay, East End
Quiche, flying fish, soups, sandwiches and daily specials for
lunch, rack of lamb, filet, mignon, veal and lobster for dinner
"Great setting at the east end of the island. Chicken verde
pasta and lobster putanesca is excellent."
Reservations Requested
AX, V, MC
The Galleon D (773-9949)
Green Cay Marina
French, Italian, lobster, chateaubriand, breast of duck.
"The best rack of lamb on the island."
Reservations Requested
AX, V, MC
Greathouse at Villa Madeline D (778-7377)
Teague Bay, East End
International, Continental cuisine
"Gourmet dining and an excellent view from the top of the
mountain"
AX, V, D, MC
Harbormaster BLD (773-2035)
Hotel on the Cay, Christiansted
Seafood, burgers, sandwiches and a Tuesday night Beach Barbecue
buffet with a limbo show, broken bottle dancer, fire eater, mocko
jumbie and steel band.
Reservations for the buffet.
AX, MC, V
Harvey's LD (773-3433)
11B Company Street, Christiansted
West Indian cuisine including local fish, creole, ribs, chicken,
lobster and lamb stew.
Hideaway BLD (773-4042)
Hibiscus Beach Hotel
Right on the beach serving steak, seafood, sandwiches. Wednesday
night barbecue night with live music and limbo contest. Friday night
five course dinner and show by the Caribbean Dance Company. Jazz on
Saturday night.
Reservations required for special nights
AX, MC, V
Indies LD (692-9440)
55-56 Company Street, Christiansted
Caribbean & International Cuisine, Seafood.
"This is the place I recommend first for seafood. There's also
Sushi on Wednesday and Friday nights."
Reservations Suggested
AX, V, MC
Kendrick's LD (773-9199)
King Street, Christiansted
Dinner served on Friday and Saturday nights only
"This is my top choice for fine dining on the island.
Contemporary & Nouvelle American cuisine, including pastas, seafood,
duck, pork loin and a great wine list." .
Reservations a must for dinner
AX, V, MC
Lizards LD (773-4485)
1111 Strand Street, Christiansted
Island-inspired dishes, barbecue
Live music nightly
AX, V, MC
Luncheria LD (773-4247)
6 Company Street, Christiansted
"My favorite all around restaurant for their cheap and good
Mexican Food and the best frozen Margaritas ANYWHERE. Their $1
margarita is extremely "tart" to cover the vast quantity of tequila
that gives it the kick of a mule. Three or four of these and you'll
see things that aren't there!"
Mahogony Room D (778-3800)
Westin Carambola Beach Resort
Fine Dining, Seafood
AX, V, MC, D, DC
Mango Grove LD (773-0200)
Queen Cross Street, Christiansted
Sandwiches, burgers, light fare, and their specialty drink the
Mango daiquiri. "Chicken fingers and fries make a great lunch"
AX
Marina Bar BLD (773-0103)
King's Alley Yacht Landing
Continental breakfast, light fare
AX, MC, V, D
No Bones Cafe LD (773-2128)
Gallows Bay, Christiansted
Seafood, grilled steak and chicken, homemade desserts prepared by
the self proclaimed resident gypsy, Chef Tomas. Great seafood
chowder too.
"My favorite is the Flying Fish and Chips with really really cold
beer (which always makes a place rate highly on my list). Their
steaks are highly acclaimed"
Reservations Requested for dinner
V, MC, D
Nolan's Tavern LD (773-6660)
Estate St. Peters, Christiansted
West Indian Cuisine
Conch Specialties
Reservations Suggested
Off the Wall LD (778-2227)
Cane Bay Beach
Grilled food, pizzas, subs, mexican, all served in an extremely
casual atmosphere right on the beach with a great sunset view. "Great
place to stop in for a snack and a drink if you're out touring around the
island or after a day of diving at Cane Bay."
Picnic in Paradise D (778-1212)
West end of Cane Bay
"Even though the name says picnic, it's because they used to be a
deli. It's excellent dining in a great seaside setting now with fresh
seafood, pasta, pork, and lobster."
AX, V, MC, D, DC, CB
Roget's Cafe LD (772-1100)
In the former Royal Dane Hotel, Frederiksted
Fresh seafood and steak and nightly specials and a dessert
special--flourless chocolate cake.
AX, V, MC, D
Saman Room BLD (778-3800)
Westin Carambola Beach Resort
American, West Indian dishes. "Their Friday night Pirate's
Buffet including an Island Show and/or Sunday brunch are not to be
missed."
St. Croix Seaport BLD (773-6585)
Hotel Caravelle, Christiansted
Right on the water with a great view of Christiansted harbor.
Caribbean & Contemporary World Cuisine, Pizza
AX, D, V, MC
Saloon LD (772-BEER)
Market street a block from the water, Frederiksted
Airconditioned bar with burgers, nachos, chicken sandwiches, and
salads.
AX, V, MC
Serendipity Inn LD (773-5762)
Mill Harbor Condominiums
Soups, salads, sandwiches for lunch, fish pasta chicken, steak au
poivre for dinner. Tuesday night-fried chicken, Wednesday night-Italian
night, Friday night-barbecue. Sunday brunch.
AX, MC, V
South Shore Cafe D (773-9311)
Corner of routes 62 and 624
Fine seafood and vegetable entrees featuring homemade pasta, also
prime rib, lamb, and daily vegetarian specials.
Stixx BLD (773-5157)
Pan Am Pavilion (Waterfront),Christiansted
Seafood, continental cuisine, pizza, pasta
AX, V, MC
Tivoli Gardens LD (773-6782)
Strand @ Queen Cross Street, Christiansted
Continental cuisine & seafood like shrimp curry, coquilles St.
Jacques, and lobster.
Reservations requested
AX, V, MC
Tommy & Susan's Taverna L (773-8666)
6 Company Street, Christiansted
Greek with at least one island special every day like roast pork
or fresh snapper.
Top Hat LD (773-2346)
52 Company Street, Christiansted
Continental cuisine, Scandinavian Specialties including a
smorgaasbord selection of hors d'oeuvres and salad bar. Black angus
steaks and fresh local seafood.
Reservations Suggested
AX, DC, V, MC
Tutto Bene D (773-5229)
2 Company Street, Christiansted
Southern provincial Italian
AX, D, MC, V
Waves at Cane Bay D (778-1805)
Near Cane Bay at the Waves at Cane Bay Hotel
Fresh seafood, steak, pasta, chicken, and vegetarian specials.
"Great food, an excellent view right on the water"
AX, MC, V
Wreck Bar & Grill D (773-6092)
5AB Hospital Street
American Cuisine
V, MC, D
Hi - We spent a week on St. John in early March. Wanted to tell those of you who were concerned about changes at Caneel that all is well. Although the week had a shaky beginning due to luggage mishap with American Airlines - our 2 suitcases were lost for about 48 hours - once our things arrived, we were able to breathe a collective sigh of relief and really enjoy ourselves. We didn't pack much in our carry-ons (reading material, toothbrushes, camera) and have now learned to take the possibility of delayed luggage far more seriously. It was a distressing way to begin a trip, but we quickly settled in once we had our stuff. Now on to the nitty gritty... in our opinion, the children who were at Caneel with their parents DID NOT detract from Caneel's overall ambiance. As a matter of fact, they weren't even really noticeable except at mealtime. And even then, just the Beach Terrace was affected. By the way, the Beach Terrace is now a buffet for all three meals, though a menu is available for breakfast and lunch. (This may only reflect the larger numbers of guests during high season. ) The buffets were very nicely prepared and presented. Due to the recent renovations, the Beach Terrace is a much more pleasant place to enjoy a meal. It was always the most dated of Caneel's dining rooms, but now it has a more colorful and tasteful look. Turtle Bay's breakfast and lunch buffets, while delightful and inviting (particularly the succulent grilled swordfish at lunch) were not as extensive as those offered at the Terrace. Having said that, I must add that both sites presented many more "healthy" items than we remembered from earlier trips. And the Grand Buffet on Monday evening was less opulent and excessive than in years past. Mind you, it was a delectable and definitely expansive display (!) just not the "over the top" assemblage that we had come to know and love. The regular evening buffet includes specialty pizzas and plain cheese ones for the children. Our second night, one of the specialty pizzas was a goat cheese and pancetta combination that was to die for. As melodramatic as that sounds, I can't think of a better way to put it. This was, quite simply, the best pizza I have ever the pleasure of eating and it spoiled me for the remainder of the week. Perhaps for life... The Equator had the most unusual menu choices - I had a lentil encrusted salmon that was sublime, perhaps my finest meal of the week (excluding that pizza, of course). But their desserts fell way short of the mark. My husband and several other diners ordered Ben and Jerry's Chunky Monkey for dessert by default. (I was far too stuffed to even consider the idea of more food by this time.) Usually at a restaurant like the Equator, people order desserts that are more unique or sophisticated than a bowl of commercially produced ice cream which can be purchased at home. But unfortunately the Equator's dessert menu lacked any appealing choices so many folks were left to close their meal with a dish of Ben and Jerry's. On the brighter side, I suspect several people were like me - just so full from an exquisite dinner that they wouldn't even have wanted to bother with dessert anyway. Speaking of ice cream, I should mention a gingerbread ice cream that was served at Turtle Bay. Now that was a treat! On to Turtle Bay. It is as elegant as ever though we missed the live piano music that we always enjoyed from other Caneel trips. The piped in stuff was a disappointment and lent the unmistakable air of elevators and Muzak. Both nights we ate there, we were seated on the outer edges of the room. And thankfully so, I might add because TB was so warm. This was surprising since both evenings were on the cool side and one would have expected the dining room to reflect the slight dip in temperature. A few of the men in their requisite jackets looked a bit wilted, but no one seemed terribly uncomfortable. The food was artfully prepared and beautifully presented but unfortunately service was slow. At times, very, very slow. It's possible that the automatic 15% might be part of the problem as it certainly cuts into incentive. I should qualify my comments though. Much of the time, it seemed that the dining rooms were simply understaffed and just adding another waiter or two would have helped tremendously. We did have some attentive servers, but too often that was not the case. Thinking back, I must make the point that the food and view generally compensated for any discrepancies in the service. The grounds were in excellent shape. More rain than usual made for a lush, colorful landscape. So much was in bloom which was a feast for our eyes after the dull grays, browns, and tans of wintry Illinois. It was hard to tell that a hurricane ever had blown through the property. Snorkeling was good, but not great. We didn't see any turtles feeding off Scott but we did see bunches and bunches of magnificently colored fish of various sizes off Turtle Bay, Hawksnest, and Scott. We skip Caneel, Little Caneel, and Honeymoon so I can't tell you about them. And Paradise, well, we only read there, didn't get into the water. One new touch is that a Caneel staffer drives around to all the beaches every morning and afternoon with icy cold bottles of water. In the past, we always brought our own from the room, but it is hard to keep them half way cold, even in the shade. So this was a pleasant surprise. We were on the Classic Caribbean package which basically meant that we had breakfast and dinner included in the room cost, plus a few other perks. One was the Caneel sunset cruise around St. John. Our particular cruise had only 8 Caneel guests plus 2 crew and 2 musicians. Our smaller group was really special and the 12 of us got to know each other fairly well by the end of the cruise. The crew was gracious and full of history and general information about St. John. The musicians were entertaining and friendly. Caneel put out a delicious spread (like we needed more food - the bowl of shrimp was enormous, let alone the other munchies). Clouds rolled in so the sunset was quite unremarkable, but no one minded. The island views were memorable and the company wonderful. Indeed, this was one of the week's highlights. We also took the day trip to Little Dix (another Classic Caribbean perk) and it was an enjoyable change of pace. Even though Little Dix and Caneel are the same type of resort, they have their own distinct character. Had an incredible small world experience at the customs dock in Virgin Gorda - we ran into a groomsman from our wedding over 20 years ago, hadn't heard from him in maybe 10 years. He and his wife had been on Tortola and were waiting for the ferry to begin their journey home! Still makes me shake my head... One last Caneel point worth mentioning. The average age of the guests at Caneel seems to have dropped by half. Because the established, long time, "old guard Caneelians" had a lock on reservations in February, the younger crowd had to spill over to March. But this was different. I mean, we saw several couples in their 20s and 30s who did not appear to be on their honeymoons. That is, they chose Caneel as a regular sort of vacation, not as a one time trip like a honeymoon. Paired with the increase in families, it felt like Caneel had almost reinvented itself. And we mean that in a good way. After all, Caneel (along with other similar properties) must the facts. One important fact is that many, many of their guests from years past have reached the age where Caneel is no longer a travel option. Caneel must appeal to the next generation(s) in order to secure it's future. From what we saw, Caneel has done that successfully. They have managed not only to accommodate both the couples (of all ages) and the families, but to do it well. Our fear of the place being overrun by little kids was unfounded. Caneel is alive and doing wonderfully after the hurricane and children!
(Ed Note: Henry wishes to point out that the following is a set of very personal observations and not an adequate review such as you might find in a good travel guidebook, where, one assumes, the author will have done conscientious research. )
I was tired and under considerable stress when I decided I needed a relaxing, away-from-it-all getaway for about a week. I had heard vague but favorable things about Le Sport on St. Lucia and a search of the Caribbean Forum libraries yielded generally positive comments. My final decision was most influenced by a description of Le Sport in an article in the March-April 1997 issue of Caribbean Travel & Life. The magazine -- accurately, as it turned out -- described "The Experience" as: "An all-inclusive vacation encompassing a host of luxurious spa treatments, as well as meals, drinks, sports and activities, in the rates." Also accurately, it went on to praise the spa treatments and, on the other hand, point out the pitfalls of an all-inclusive which forces you to choose for dessert between healthy fruit on the one hand and, on the other side of the table, delicious pastries. GETTING THERE There are two airports -- Hewanorra in the far south, about an hour and a quarter by road from Le Sport, and Vigie, near the capital Castries, about 20 minutes from Le Sport. Most international jets land at Hewanorra and that's the way I arrived from San Juan, Puerto Rico. All airport transfers, by taxi arranged by the resort, are included in the all-inclusive rate. A Le Sport rep meets all incoming guests as you come out of Customs. Some guests found the road trip from Hewanorra uncomfortable and/or dangerous. My trip was uneventful and a good opportunity to see a lot of the St. Lucia countryside and some of Castries. The other couple sharing the taxi and I may have been lucky in getting a good driver and the roads may have seemed safe and comfortable to me because I live on St. Thomas, where the roads are far more difficult. But I had an equally satisfactory trip back at the end of my stay with a different driver. THE RESORT Le Sport is an all-inclusive resort that is truly all-inclusive, from airport transfers to accommodations, all meals (afternoon tea, too), all drinks at all hours, all the usual water sports PLUS the spa treatments, all included in the basic room tariff. 102 rooms overlook a beautiful cove with an attractive sand beach. All rooms are air conditioned, with terraces. You can stock your room refrigerator from the resort bars or the little gift shop. Bathrooms have hair dryers. Most beds are king-sized four-posters. One pool sits between the rooms and the beach. Another, mostly for pool volleyball and scuba instruction, is at beach level, adjoining the Terrace Bar. Yet another is up the hill at the Oasis, about which more later. All meals are served in the restaurant, an open air terrace by the beach. Breakfast and lunch are buffet with various offerings. Eggs to order for breakfast. Always fruit and salads available for lunch and light cuisine available for lunch and dinner. But the truth is that self-indulgence is easy to fall into at all meals because the richer offerings are always there. This is not a fat farm. The in- room brochure says: "While Cuisine Le Sport has lighter calorie leanings, it is not light food for its own sake. Our aim is to produce great tasting food with an emphasis on quality ingredients, lighter textures and natural flavors, avoiding MSG and food coloring." Dinner menus were imaginative, the entrees well prepared. The desserts were nearly all tasty -- and fattening. But there were diet- conscious selections although not many and not very good. Breakfast and lunch buffets were much more casually prepared -- adequate but ordinary. House wines, described by wine drinkers as pretty good, are available at lunch and dinner, as much as you like. You can also order from a wine list at what I am told are moderate prices but connoisseurs say the list is too limited. Afternoon tea from 4 to 6 provides coffee, tea, herbals, finger sandwiches, cookies and pastries. (It takes a lot of discipline to be conscientious at Le Sport.) I was surprised that very few people over-indulged in the alcohol offerings. From the time the Terrace Bar opens at 10 a.m., you can get whatever you want to drink, including champagne, until the Piano Bar closes, which is whenever the last customer calls it a night. The only room service you can get is a Continental breakfast ordered the night before. On the beach, if you don't have the energy to walk up to the Terrace Bar, just raise an orange flag by your chaise lounge and someone will come to take your drink order. Or if you wait a while, one of the attendants will pass by with a tray of refreshments. THE OASIS A separate, 18,800 square-foot palace at the top of 80 steps up from the beach, houses all the spa treatments plus some of the other mind- and-body stuff. This is The Oasis, two stories (plus a sun roof for nudists) surrounding airy courtyards and a pool for hydroaeroboics. After a nurse takes your medical history and your blood pressure, a computer turns out a schedule for whatever number of days you're booked for. Typically, there are two scheduled treatments per day. This is what I did in a week, with some comments: Massage. Three thirty-minute Swedish massage sessions. I had three different massage therapists and they were all good but none was extraordinary like my weekly therapist back in the Virgin Islands. And thirty minutes is not really enough for me but it seems churlish to complain. It's in the price of admission. There's a Clarins Institute in the Oasis Building and you can buy an hour-and-a- quarter massage from them for, I think about $40. Very few people choose that option. Foot massage. This is a separate treatment. I had two -- one excellent, one indifferent, the latter by the only therapist I saw who seemed unhappy with her work. Another guest who had her for the full massage also complained about her. Hydro massage. This is one of the thallasotherapies, based on the therapeutic values of purified sea water. From about 10 feet away, the therapist directs a pressure hose at you. I was scheduled for one and talked them into given me a second. I don't know if it really reduces cellulite, stimulates circulation and breaks down adipose tissue but it feels really good. Some people complain about the force of the jet so they're careful but I'd advise telling the therapist soon after it starts whether you want it softer or harder: I wanted it harder. If you like, it ends with a bracing cold fresh water rinse. In the same area, there are two plunge pools to soak in, one hot and one cold. Try them; they're not scheduled. Salt loofah rub. They'll schedule this early in your stay, before the sun makes your skin hypersensitive. Again, I loved it but some people complained. You get rubbed, I think gently, with a piece of coarse vegetable fiber dipped in sea salt crystals suspended in massage oil. It does good things to your skin and it feels great. If you're uncomfortable, don't hesitate to tell the therapist to go easier. You rinse off the salt in a multi-jet shower stall. Wonderful. Algae bubble bath. Twenty soothing minutes of lying in a tub of warm, purified sea water infused with seaweed extract, with numerous jets massaging your back and sides. Aromatherapy. Several fragrant oils, supposedly combined for maximum effect and selected for what seems best for each client, are used for a 50-minute massage. If it does all the medicinal things promised, consider that an extra. The main thing is that just about everyone who had the aromatherapy, myself included, came out super relaxed and in a happy haze. Reflexology. A foot manipulation based on theories about points in the foot affecting vital internal organs. It sounds like nonsense to me but you'll feel good after having it. So go for it. This is not scheduled and you should request it from the Oasis receptionist on the 2nd floor as soon as you get your treatment schedule. They only have one reflexologist. Facial. My first. This is done at Le Sport with a combination of plant and seaweed extracts. Good. Very good. A cool, relaxing experience and you really look better after. I didn't have the Seaweed Wrap. After being wrapped in algae and plastic, they apply a heating blanket. Some people felt claustrophobic. Others found the heat oppressive. Others were very pleased. The nurse suggested I shouldn't have it because I have a mild hypertensive condition. In retrospect, I wish I'd done it. The Oasis is also the location of the weights room, which has basic equipment, fairly primitive by today's health club standards. The aerobics studio is also up there on the hill. THE ACTIVITIES Nobody assigns you to the other healthy activities. The schedule for each day is posted from the evening before and you can plan your day around your scheduled spa treatments. You have to supply all the motivation and I came up short in that department. Mobilize your resolve before you leave home or you may have the kind of outcome I had, gaining five pounds over the week. My only real exercise was climbing the 80 steps to the Oasis and a little light snorkeling in the bay. At any rate, you can have power walks, easier walks, beginning aerobics, intermediate aerobics, advanced aerobics, step aerobics, water aerobics, tone and stretch classes, cycling, tennis, archery, fencing, scuba diving, sailing, water skiing, tennis and I'm sure there's more. Oh yes, beach volleyball. And Yoga and Tai Chi and stress reduction sessions. Golf either into four nets with a pro to guide you, or free golf, transportation included, at a nine-hole course five minutes away. All with encouragement and, if needed, instruction by a corps of male and female, mostly St. Lucian, "Bodyguards", the Le Sport equivalents of the GO's at Club Meds. These young folks are pleasant and competent and add a great deal to the spirit of the vacation. THE GUESTS The week I was there, would estimate about 50 percent Americans, 30 percent British and the rest mostly German and Canadian. Many repeat customers. The Europeans are usually there for two weeks or more. The Americans and Canadians were more likely to be one-weekers. Nearly everyone thought a week was not enough. I agree but a week is not bad. You can get in a fair number of spa treatments in that time. Fitness and body types ranged all over the spectrum. There were the very fit, who pretended to be suffering in the advanced aerobics classes. There were couch potatoes and other sluggards. Some of us made an effort to improve our ways. Others just relaxed and soothed our consciences with pina coladas. ENTERTAINMENT The Piano Bar is open every night with someone at the keyboard from 7 p.m. The bar only closes when there are no more drinkers. There's music in the dining room every night, ranging from a single steel pan to, one night I was there, St. Lucia's leading band and most popular singer. Some kind of music for dancing every night at the Terrace Bar, from 10 to at least 12. A highlight of the week is the Staff Show, with some very talented amateur talent. The ambiance of the Terrace Bar is unsophisticated and the entertainments there are very casual. This is not the kind of activity to keep many guests up very late. EXCURSIONS Excursions to all parts of St. Lucia are available. Most popular are trips by road or sea to Soufriere, site of a mildly active volcano, and the Pitons, Gros and Petit, magnificent double peaks near the sea close to Soufriere. I took a delightful sunset cruise on the 140- foot Brig UNICORN. You have to decide what you're willing to give up at Le Sport in order to see more of St. Lucia and it's a hard choice because the resort is beguiling and St. Lucia is a lovely island. CONCLUSIONS Like most of the guests when I was there, I fully expect to go back to Le Sport and probably for more than a week. But it's not a classic health spa. I see it as more an all-inclusive Caribbean resort with a good spa component to dip into as you please. Although I haven't been to other spas, I suspect the therapists at Le Sport are not as professionally skilled as you might find at some other better known spas. The resort is attractive and very comfortable but it isn't a super luxe establishment. But you don't pay top luxe prices, either. The rates are from $225 to $295 per person per night, all inclusive. With all the spa treatments included, that's a terrific bargain. I hated leaving and I can't wait to go back.
Edie and I just returned from trip #13 to St. Martin/Sint Maarten. If I was the superstitious type, I'd have been somewhat nervous about it being the 13th trip. However, after having our house burn down and going through the eye of a hurricane from two recent trips, one learns to take things in stride. Happily, I can report that this trip was the most enjoyable trip yet! Let me share with you our experiences. Sit back and enjoy, no need to fasten those seatbelts or stow that tray in the locked upright position, for there is nothing but a smooth ride ahead..... Saturday 4/12 - With all the recent reports of late flights or airplane problems with American Airlines, I'm almost embarrassed to say our flight down was very uneventful with the exception that we arrived on the island over 20 minutes ahead of schedule. Little did I know that this would be the way the whole vacation would go. While we were waiting in line to get through immigration, the folks from Unity Car rental flashed a "Welcome back to St. Martin, Bruce Farrington!" sign through the window. These folks are the greatest and it really makes you feel right at home. I guess its just one more reason that makes this island my favorite. Within 15 minutes, we were through immigration, had our luggage and rental car and were driving out of the airport. Life is good! After stopping off to order my traditional 3 dozen johnny cakes from Clair at the Highway grocery, I was pleased to see that Clair is open again at Sweet Sensations next door (next to Lynettes). Great place for deli sandwiches as well as ice cream also. We then drove on to Orient Beach and checked into Green Caye Villas. What can I say about Green Caye Villas other than it was love at first sight! Our villa had a breathtaking view encompassing all of Orient and Coconut Grove beaches. The large deck has a small built in pool that we put to frequent use during our stay. The management even provided 3 blow up rafts. The villa itself has 3 beautiful spacious bedrooms with connected bathrooms and closets. It even has a guest bathroom as well. The kitchen was well furnished with an ice dispensing refrigerator so necessary for filling those frequent requests for pina coladas. The living room has cable TV as well as a CD/cassette/tuner sound system. You also had 2 dining areas: one facing the beach and one facing the garden area. Daily maid service was both efficient and unobtrusive. First day supplies, a welcome bottle of wine and a complementary breakfast were also provided. All in all a first class operation. At under $1000 per couple per week, it is fairly priced. I can give it no higher praise then this: This is where I want to stay whenever I visit the island. After settling in, we were soon joined by friends that live only a few miles from us (who ironically we met on a earlier trip) and Mike and Linda Hill. Mike and Linda wanted me to say "Howdy, Texas style" to all of their friends. They are doing fine and send their love. We ended the first night by having dinner at Papagayos. While listening to a local band that played a mixture of music, I had an excellent salad with warm goat cheese, a good French onion soup with melted Swiss cheese and Edie had a so-so Cheeseburger. With a couple of diet cokes, it came to $22. A good way to start a vacation. As I sat on our balcony that night, looking at the lights along Orient Beach and listening to an ENYA CD on the stereo, I once more reflected on the fact that if I only had one day left to live, that this is how I would want to spend it. Another outstanding aspect of this trip was the weather. Unlike our February trip, the weather was beautiful. Mostly sunny, warm, with light breezes. As a matter of fact the breezes were almost too light on several occasions. This was good for the daily volleyball games we enjoyed but required frequent breaks between games and you can imagine how hard it is to resume play once folks frolic in those deep blue waters. But I digress, on with the story..... Sunday, 4/13... Enjoyed our complimentary breakfast at our villa. The staff sets the table, prepares the meals, picks up afterwards, does the dishes...you get the idea. I looked over at Edie during breakfast and saw a dreamy, far away look in her eye. I whispered to her not to get used to this...That morning we spent lounging around the pool, reading, and absolutely contributing zero to society <g>. God it was great! Finally, around 2 PM we got up the energy to drive over to Club Orient where we played Volleyball for an hour before our massage at the hands of Martha. Martha, Milan and Emily are all doing fine and send their love to all their online friends. If you'll looking for that special tip for Martha after a great massage, may I suggest a VCR tape full of Sesamee Street episodes for Emily. They can't get it down there and they were very appreciative of Emily having this learning experience. Edie, being a kindergarten teacher, was only too happy to oblige. That night we went to the Rancho Argentinean Grill. Its worth the trip inside just to look up at the impressively high thatched ceiling. Unfortunately, the musician who plays Salsa music was "sick" that night. A little known aspect of Caribbean musicians is their unusually high incidence of sickness which averages about 30%. Modern science has, as of yet, no explanation and more information can be obtained under "Island Fever" in your medical dictionary <g>. At any rate, I had Tenderloin Tip (good), fired plantains (OK) and Edie had grilled Salmon (excellent) for $38. The service was also good. We also hit the Pelican and Atlantis casinos where we won a few bucks by playing the match play coupons. Afterwards, it was back to our deck overlooking the lights of Orient to enjoy the view, the cool breeze and a pina colada or three. With the soundtrack from "Somewhere in time" playing in the background, the cares of the world drifted away with the gentle breeze off the ocean.... Monday, 4/14 - We began a tradition that with three couples was very enjoyable. Each morning, one couple made breakfast for the others. A typical breakfast was eggs, toast, croissants, fruit (pineapples, mango, bananas, oranges and grapefruit), cereal, juice and coffee and flowers that grow around the villa. Each day, we tried to outdue the previous day. It was a delicious way to start the new day and it was as much fun to create as it was to eat. The rest of the day was pretty much getting into a pattern. Laze around the pool in the morning and go to Orient Beach in the afternoon for volleyball and catching some rays. That evening we had dinner at Braisserie De La Gare and had Pizza and Red Snapper (both good) for $30. After dinner, it was back to our deck for drinks and conversation. Curiously enough, even with 3 couples, we often just gazed at the lights below and from some of the nearby islands without saying anything for 10 or 15 minutes at a time. For 6 people all know to have a gift of gab this is quite a trick, but the Caribbean will do that to you..... Tuesday, 4/15 Breakfast at our villa again. Eggs, croissants, grapefruit, toasted baggetts, oranges, banannas. Gosh, this could become addicting. I'm just a tad guilty about going off my diet like this. Fortunately, the guilt goes away quickly about the same time I bite into my first croissant (curiously enough!) <g>. Spent the morning taking our friends up to see the view from the top of PIC Paradise. They agreed it was the most breathtaking view on the island. It was a good thing since they didn't get much of a view on the way up with their eyes closed like that! They ask me on the way down about what happened in my life to give me a "death wish". They really did not appreciate me whistling on the trip down <g>. Oh well....That afternoon it was back to Orient Beach for volleyball. For our evening dinner, we chose Hoa Mai located in the French Cul De Sac area near where Mark's Place used to be. This French Indonesian restaurant was not only eloquent inside but produced the best meal of the trip. I had Pork in curry sauce and Edie had sauteed chicken with cashews. Both dishes were outstanding for $30. I learned that this restaurant will soon be moving to Marigot and will be renamed "Macadam". It will be situated somewhere near the French Can Can. I highly recommend a trip to this place. You won't regret it! Wednesday, 4/16 We broke our tradition of eating breakfast in for one day to make our pilgrimage to the holy of holies: Le Croissanterie. For those of you who have read my previous trip reports, you'll know that I could not miss this place for breakfast. As always the croissants were delicious and the rolls are out of this world. Its always hard for me to know how many croissants I can order before I make a public spectacle of myself. I do believe the staff is getting suspicious that I, in fact, am not ordering croissants for the entire St. Martin 4th grade as I have been telling them <g>. That evening we had dinner at the Cloud Room. Unfortunately, a tour bus had preceded us and they were out of all of their meat dishes. Darn! We did have Bolonaise and a Ceasar Salad which were OK for $22. That evening, on the balcony, with drinks in hand, we desperately tried to come up with a "get rich quick" scheme that would allow us to continue this life of opulence. I suggested selling Edie into white slavery. I cannot repeat her counter suggestion except to say it was anatomically impossible <g> Thursday, 4/17 Breakfast served in again this morning thanks to Chefs Mike and Linda. True to his Texas style (OK he was born in Indiana!), Mike Hill serves us "Grapefruit - Canjun style"!!! What the....! Linda proved to be a great cook for the rest of the Eggs, fruit and croissants, however. Here is where the trip report begins to get strange. Actually a few nights earlier at HOA MAI when Mike Hill ordered a diet coke and I had a rum punch, I thought it could get no stranger <g>. On this day in history, Mike Hill swallowed his Texas pride and was talked into going to the Butterfly Farm with us. The mandatory grumbling soon turned into a picture taking frenzy. Upon leaving the Butterfly Farm, Mike admitted that he really enjoyed the experience. He asked me never to tell a soul since it would destroy his image. Of course, I would honor such a request <g>. Seriously, for those of you who have never been to the Butterfly Farm and may think its sounds dorky, give it a try! That evening we had the usual excellent meal at Yvettes located in Orlean. Pork, ribs, chicken combination for me and Red Snapper for Edie (both excellent), plantans, johnny cakes, and rice and peas for a very reasonable $28. For great authentic St. Martin cuisine, off the beaten track, this place is a must. Friday, 4/18 Our last full day on the island. If only 7 days at work could go this quickly and enjoyably. One more delicious breakfast at our villa overlooking beautiful Orient Beach. I wish someday to be able to take a picture that will do the view justice. I can never quite get the blue just right. Ironically, ENYA is singing "Caribbean Blue" in the background. I wonder if she got the inspiration for that song in St. Martin? More volleyball on the beach. We don't keep score and no one seems to mine. People are still laughing at my suggestion that we be the "skins" team even after hearing the same dumb joke for 6 straight days now <g> That evening we try the "all you can eat" buffet at the Atlantis Casino. $11.95 per person with a coupon. Not terribly great food but OK. The Flam was good for dessert, though... Saturday, 4/19 Last day in paradise! After our normal great eat-in breakfast at our villa, we laze around our deck and pool, trying desperately not to think about leaving our second home. I leave our two lounge chairs next door for some of our friends who are arriving today. Ah yes..the lounge chairs, now that an interesting story. You might recall that we were on the island in February and would return in only 7 weeks. Since I didn't want to carry the chairs back and forth, I put them in garbage bags and buried them on a deserted beach (no I won't tell you which one!) in SXM. Suffice it to say that NO ONE goes here and I thought it might be fun to have some "buried treasure" when I came back. Upon my arrival this trip, I returned to dig up my "booty". Upon driving at the location, I couldn't believe that someone had build a beach shack (complete with cement foundation) over where I thought I had buried the chairs. I still have no idea why they built here! As it turns outs, they missed the chairs by about 2 feet and never knew they were there! I wonder if pirates ever ran into these kind of problems? Anyway I digress.... At noon we said good-bye to our friends and left to pick up my 3 dozen johhny cakes from Clair. Clair, the perfect island lady that she is, is nevertheless curious how I managed to go through the 3 dozen johnny cakes that she supplied from just 7 weeks ago. I told her I was feeding my wife's kindergarten class. I don't think anyone on the island is falling for this line and I welcome creative lies that anyone may be able to give me <g>. Anyway we flew home on American and once more had a very routine flight. As we got home, walking up the terminal (almost a year to the day that we found out our house had burned down), Edie had a premonition which really bothered her. Happily this time the house was fine and only our Daughter greeted us. This in itself was a happy ending to a great vacation........ The End
Just returned from 10 days in SXM....once again it was perfect. The weather on 4/5 when we arrived was 79...a bit cooler than usual. The weather was also a bit humid and quite windy. From what everyone said it was better than the end of the previous week when they had clouds and a day of rain. I think some of our N.E. weather ran over there and messed things up. It also cause the beach in front of Sapphire and Ocean Club to vanish.....I'm talking NO BEACH. There were huge as well as small rocks and I can't imagine how long it might take to return. There was enough room for a lounge chair or two by Sat though. The beach all went to the Cliffside end. It is beautiful down that end and is so pretty sitting at the bar there. I think the beach on that end has been gone a lot this winter so it was nice to see it back for them.. The weather remained windy for two days and you could have worn a light sweater the first few evenings. Everything at Ocean Club was about the same except for the addition of a bar by the pool. The bar is run by Robert who owns the water sports at Copecoy and Turtle Pier. It was nice to have a drink and talk to other owners. The Ocean Club is so casual and everything seems so relaxed, Check in takes minutes and that's about the only time you see anyone. Nice we got over the first two days the weather was great. it stayed about 84 to 88 and very little humidity and clear sky. The island looks much neater than a year ago and they have made great progress in cleaning up. I don't think except for a few boats and places like Mullet that you would realize the destruction that took place. Sapphire is adding a building so the construction noise was there every day. Royal Islander area was busy and Cheries was hoping each night. I think overall though it was quieter on the island than I have ever seen it. The next week beginning the 12th seemed busier, None of this helped the traffic or maniac drivers. Ate at some of the same places. The MIni Club on the French side. It's Wed and Sat buffet is incredible. All you can eat lobster, prime rib, salmon, pork, duck etc. Everything is excellent. Great soups, salads etc. They also include as much wine as you care for. I think it's $40.00 each but that is everything...taxes tip etc. A wonderful evening with entertainment also. Laguana across from the airport is still great. It's quiet and the food is terrific. A nice meal is about $100.00 a couple with a few drinks....maybe a bit higher. Cheries had some good burgers and Pasta primavera...also great Veal parm one night. Prices are still about $7.00 to $18.00. We enjoyed a meal at Ren and Stimpys. Very quiet and slow if you are in a rush. They had great pasta meals. Prices were around $18.00. Think dinner ran about $75.00 a couple with extra salads and a drink or two. We never did make Marios that most people still raved about. A lot of people also said to go to Don Camillios which we never made. The breakfast at the boathose was still good, and the Turtle Pier and some people ran to the Superette by the Summit......a great breakfast for $2.95. I actually never heard any complaints from anyone about their food. Most people did Lynettes, CocCocnuts, Da Livio etc. Everyone seemed please. Some really like a seafood platter at coconuts. The old Felix place is now Indys. ...looks really cute and has entertain. Highly recommended by Robert the water sport guy. New bagel place by Pelican road has great bagels and sandwiches. As for the beaches....mullet is open...you buy a sandwich for $2.00 and they throw in a chair and beer....beach was clean and there were rest rooms and showers open. Copecoy is great at Copecoy beach club end. It is also fine around the corner from Ocean Club. They were selling beer and renting chairs also...$5.00 plus $2.00 a beer.....mostly nude this year. Orient was very windy and not crowed. It appears pretty much reorganized and most things are open and running. Maho beach was very small and seemed to alter each day. There is a sunset bar down the far end that was pretty. Bar offers 4 free drinks for topless....jello shots at $1.00 Maho has new Harbor Pointe place, The man owned the Harbour Point on Cape Cod in Barnstable I think. Had a nice barbecue and everything was really nice. Seems as if he'll do well as there are different things each night....nice place. All else seemed the same. Prices seemed to vary more this year...one store would have soda for $l.90 a bottle and the next $3.00 or cranberry juice ranged from 3.00 to 6.10 The liq also was very different. Never made it into Philipsburg but the rest of the group did. Guess all is the same there.
**Airport ( Porlamar - Caribe )** Exchange You can exchange money at a fair rate at the airport (on the way out, on your left) Exchange rate on April 29th was 465 Bs for one dollar. They do accept TC. WARNING: check immediately the money given -- it's not always accurate. Airport It's a very small airport under extension. Quite less organized than known but the people are very friendly. Customs are very gentle. Waiting time is okay. **ISLA MARGARITA** BEACHES Disappointing. North: Playa El Agua. It is really a nicer beach than those on the South. We were told that there was nothing to do at evening/night. Transfer from South to El Agua: 1200 - 2000 Bs by shuttle bus. Beach at "La Restinga" is nicer. If you take a jeep safari or your own car drive on the west coast, beaches are "natural". There are though some strong under currents -- be cautious especially with children. South: Beaches are small and (very) dirty. Even Bella Vista. Pampatar beach: Not really cleaner but nicer, because more local. Note: We were told there are no private beaches. Some are just made almost inaccessible to not-guests. EAT & DRINK Eat and drink can be from more or less free up to very expensive. On an average in tourist sections : water (agua) : 200 Bs up to 250 Bs beer (polar) : 200 - 250 Bs club sandwich : 1000-2000 Bs hamburger : 1000 - 2000 Bs shakes : 500-1000 Bs It's much cheaper when not walking among the "gringos". Food is nice. Tip is or not included in the price. Check for it. Sometimes you pay the tax above the price or in other case it's a tip -- can be confusing at the beginning. Nice place for quick food: Main Street Cafe on Santiago Marino. Nice prices. Delicious. Normally friendly service. Eating outside. Open 24h. We tried the recommended El Chipie. Prices are okay, food is okay, but we had a terrible service. We never went back. EXCHANGE Hotels do give less than cambio/exchange houses. At a time we got 455 Bs/$ at the hotel while at the cambio we got "effectivo" 467 Bs/$ but don't forget you have to go there, so if you do not intend to spend your money outside the hotel, change at the hotel. HOTELS We stayed at the Margarita International Resort in Porlamar but checked some other places to see where they are for an eventual next time. >Margarita International Resort< Pool and garden are great. Rooms are spacious (2 double rooms, 2 small bathrooms with shower, kitchen and eating place, TV corner, balcony). BUT -- We quit that hotel after having killed cockroaches (50 first night, 30 the second and 100 - we stopped the third night in another room other floor). Hotel is nice but not very clean and not so good in shape anymore. We do not recommend the 6th person to sleep on the coach -- the sleeping mattress is really dirty. Kitchen is useable but not in a very good shape. That's okay. KEEP THE FOOD IN THE FRIDGE (cockroaches). Unfriendly to very unfriendly reception desk. We immediately asked the cleaning lady to clean up the hunting mess with a good tip. We asked our tour operator to be transferred to another hotel Margarita International Village. Same owner just one street further. We had a much smaller room without all the facilities but we didn't have to face the feared cockroaches hunting nights. We stayed in Village II. Really great. Those places are really organized for ALL INCLUSIVE guests. However, pizza's are nice and cheap and the restaurant La Cigala does serve good food at low prices. We tried the all inclusive for two days but got kind of un- well from the food. All inclusive for one day: 25 US$ a day per person. Taxis to center: 1000 Bs - 2500 BS depending where you go. All inclusive guest can take the free but schedule limited shuttle. Other hotels we have recognized from the book (didn't stay there): Coconut Villas: We didn't stay there but it seems really located in an abandoned area and next to a power plant or oil plant (?). Bella Vista: Big hotel next to the center and shopping area. Good beach though not that nice. Aguila Inn: Budget hotel. In the center. Isla Bonita: High luxurious hotel with "private beach," as long as you like golf and luxe I guess it's okay. Outside the hotel, there is nothing to do in close access range. SHOPPING For Belgians: Prices (tax free) are higher for imported goods there than prices in Belgium. Avenida 4 Mayo and Santiago Marino are much more expensive than the Mercado and Plaza Bolivar area but shops are nicer. VISA is accepted almost everywhere but you can expect a discount (to 10 %) if you pay cash. Sometimes you get a price when using Uncle's money. Just ask and be ready to bargain. SPANISH or ENGLISH We found our way very easily with English. Unable to understand Spanish that's the only way. Inside the island it's quite less obvious. Sure that knowing Spanish you'll have really great talks with the locals. TOURING AROUND Isla Margarita is nice to be discovered. Everywhere there are some "special places". It's not the cultural place of the world however. It's more a do-not-do-too-much-holiday place. If you want, you can "book" one day a taxi (libre, pirat): 20000 Bs. We didn't rent a car. Just took shuttles and taxis. Tour operators have tours and excursions. They're okay but you miss the good places. ex : Highlights of Margarita from Q-International (Joy Tours) we drove in a big air conditioned bus a small day and spent more times on beaches or at souvenirs shops or restaurants. e.g. prices (free open bar and lunch included): Highlights: 60 US$ Jeep Safari: 50 US$ Snorkeling : 45 US$ La Restinga nature park: 10 US$ for transport, add 10.000 Bs for one boat (up to 4 people on board) and 500 Bs unknown tax. WEATHER It was about 30 deg C and dry. It cools off at night but we can still forget jackets -- bermudas and T shirts are enough.
We went to Yucatan peninsula on the week of March 15-22, 1997, to see the Mayan ruins. We picked these days because the spring equinox falls on that week. Spring equinox is a very important day in a Mayan year as they charted their calendar based on the solar system. I imagine it equates to our new year's day. The tour covers hotels, transportation, admissions, guide, breakfasts, some lunches and dinners. The weather was nice during the whole week. Day time high was 32-34 celsius (too hot for me to handle). After the sunset, the temperature dropped down to mid 20s. We got shower once while we were traveling. Day 1 We cleared the immigration very quickly. The officer did not talk to us nor even look at us. When I said *buenas noches*, he just nodded. I guessed he already figured out that my Spanish was not adequate to make a conversation. Outside the airport, we met the guide, Manuel and the bus driver, Salvador. Our hotel is Club Tropical Mayan, located at the top stem of the digit *7* of Cancun island. Check-in was very slow because only one person was at the front desk and he processed one couple at one time. It was very warm at the front desk. I stayed at the court yard until Manuel called me in. After I filled the form, the guy checked the details very carefully and told me to wait for the bellhop. Finally the bellhop came and led me to the villa room. The room was hot. The A/C was not working. The bellhop told me that he would arrange another room later. We headed to the restaurant which was on the beach. The gale force wind from the Caribbean (east) immediately cooled us down. The meal was buffet style. Food was edible but far from good. We met our group and introduced each other. A few couples from B.C., a few from Ontario. We are the only couple from Calgary. Two couples also said that the A/C were not working. We ate our supper in 15 minutes. The bellhop found us and asked if we wanted to swap room. Since it was windy on the beach and cool, I told him that it was OK. It was a mistake. As soon as we walked away from the beach, the wind died down. We felt muggy again. Strange enough, we bumped into the same bellhop. He suggested that we should get a fan and brought us one. We did not get a good sleep that night. Both beds sagged and were not comfortable. We also noticed that we got bitten by some tiny bugs. Day 2 The breakfast was buffet style and simple. Instant coffee was dispense from a countertop machine. After breakfast, we walked around the property. I noticed that there was a plaque on the hotel entrance indicating this was a historical site (my Spanish is very limited). It said something like providing 25 years of service to the community. The hotel was built in 1971. Cancun island was mostly sand dune in 1970. I told myself *what a louse place to start our vacation*. We knew this trip was not a luxury relaxation. We prepared for the worst. We had 9 couples. A couple brought their 2 teenage children, another couple brought their son for a total of 21 tourists. On the way to Xcaret, Manuel showed us the surrounding landmarks. He also told us that he was a Mayan with trace of English blood. A middle age man, he maintained most of the Mayan features, short, high cheek bone. He said that he, as in all Mayans, had 2 lumps on the skull. Obviously it would be very rude to ask him about the lumps. I couldn't help laughing as I related it to the Bug Bunny Show that Bugs asked Sam *how many lumps?* He spoke fluent English with heavy accent. To make the matter worst, he had an automobile accident that smashed his face to the bus windshield and lost a few front teeth. I had to pay a lot of attention in order to get all his words. Salvador loaded his cooler with drinks, $5 for a pop, $7 for a beer, $10 for a bottle of water. Since I don't like carbonated liquid, I stuck with the most expensive drink. By the way, *$* in Mexico now means new peso. They don't use *P* or *NP* any more. The exchange rate was $7.5-$7.9 for US$1. You'd get much better rate in Cancun than the interior. At the airport, they would buy your pesos back at $8.3. Most shops at Cancun use $8 for merchandise to lure customers. We arrived Xcaret at 10:30. It is called an Eco-Archaeological park. It has aquarium, aviary, caves, Mayan huts, butterfly farm.... We explored the underground river. Everybody must wear a life jacket (provided) and float with very gentle current. Some people brought along snorkel or rented one at the both. There were two underground rivers (salt water). We picked the longest river and started our journey in the cave. The natural light was adequate inside the cave because there were quite a few ceiling holes. There were signs indicating how far to the end and where were the exits. Some exits would get you out of water, some would lead you to a lagoon. We really enjoyed the river. We also watched the *swim with dolphin* show, listened to the Mexican music in the amphitheatre. I saw a ruin, a pyramid of no more than 5 meters high. At the beginning, I thought they were replicas. After close examination and reading the very brief description, I found that they were real. I started getting disappointed. We got back to the bus by 5. Manuel told Salvador to go through Playacar. A new developing district for the rich and famous. Security guards were at the front gate. Roads were wide and divided, with flowers in the middle, paved with interlocking bricks. Many houses were still under construction. I noticed that every so often, there was a tree planted right in the middle of the road. The bus must loop around the tree. I guess they use it to slow down the traffic. We arrived Condotel El Tukan at Playa del Carmen shortly after 6. Manuel got a bunch of keys from the front desk and assigned one to each couple. The bellhops marked the luggage immediately so that they could send it to the right room. What a nice way to check-in. Since then, we all checked that way. This hotel is quite new. It was built in a jungle environment and preserved most of the trees. There was no A/C in room. We didn't need it anyway because the evening temperature was nice. We had complementary dinner at the hotel restaurant which was across the street. We had chicken soup, which was just clear soup with added chicken meat, deep fry shredded taco and some green stuff floating on top, sided with lime. I lapped to the bottom of the bowl. Rick, from Vancouver sat next to me, tried the taco dipped in salsa. As soon as he took the first bite, he screamed for water, yet the only liquid in from of him was soup. Dinner was chicken breast with salsa (no chilly), avocado and bean paste. After dinner, we strolled on the street. The beach was a couple blocks away. Since it was dark, we decided to walk towards downtown. The town mainly catered to tourists* need, such as, merchants, bars and restaurants, and many on street merchant stalls. We walked all the way to the pier. I saw an artist used spray paints to paint, but he lit the spray can with cigarette lighter to blow torch the paint on picture. It was an extremely danger act and I was not sure what he tried to achieve, made the paint dry faster? While I walked on Playa Del Carmen. I noticed that the air was much drier than in the Caribbean islands. Day 3 Hotel provided a litre of purified water. I told my wife that we should use bottled water to rinse mouth after brushing teeth. We went to Tulum passing by Xel-Ha. Tulum was built on a cliff surrounded with walls on 3 sides. The only walled city the Mayans built. I guessed the perimeter was about 1 Km by 400 metres. The height of the walls was less than 2 meters. Manuel gave us a brief lecture before walking us to the ruins. I found the structures were built quite sloppy. The stones were quarried with rough edges and uneven shapes, patched with cement. The ruins were low rise, mostly roped off for climbing. I spotted a huge iguana resting on top of a temple. I pointed to Bob from Toronto. He took many pictures of it. I started to worry more about the ruin scene and told Bob that this site was just a pile of rocks. He had seen other ruins and agreed that this was not a very impressive site. There were plaques everywhere on the ground describing major structures in 4 languages, you probably could self tour without a guide. We went down to the beach. The ocean was rough. A few tourists were practicing body surfing. We probably missed the Papantla show (Indians dance on top of pole). I didn*t know when was the ceremony. As we have seen it before, we don't feel a big loss. We ate lunch and went to Xel-Ha, another Eco- Archaeological park. There were big signs in all Eco-Archaeological parks indicating *do not use sun tan lotions*. Manuel said that lotions kill fish and wild life. Xel-Ha was built around an underground river delta. Water in the lagoon and rivers were so clear that we could easily see the colorful fish several metres below. Manuel bought fish food from the dispenser and threw it to the water. The fish did not respond. There are caves along the river mouth. Since we didn't snorkel, we did not visit the caves. We walked along the river bank, crossed a couple bridges and walked to the other side of the mouth and back. The path was about 2 metres wide. Every a few hundred meters, they planted small trees in the middle of the path, just like in Playacar. Later afternoon, Salvador took us to Coba. We stayed at Club Med. William, from Vancouver pulled me aside and said, *All hotels no good!*. He is a Korean speaks very little English. I told him that in small towns, nobody would build a luxury hotel, for economic reasons. He kept bobbing his head. I was not sure he understood. Actually the hotel was not bad. It was built by a lake of about 10 hectares (25 acres). Manuel said that swimming in the lake was not allowed because the lake was infested with alligators. I immediate pulled out my binoculars and checked for the longest time. There was not even a dead log floating. The entrance was a typical Spanish construction. Rooms were in a 2 story building that wrapped around a centre court yard which had bar and swimming pool with tables, chairs and launchers around the pool. After sunset, a few couples stayed at the gazebo on the lake to enjoy the gentle breeze and the lake view. We still could not see a dead log. Rick pointed out a few fireflies on shore. Amazingly, they flashed quite bright. We ate dinners at the Club Med restaurant. Soup was lime/chicken soup. Dinner selections were limited, strip of beef, barbecued pork, chicken or fish. I picked the bbq pork. It was served like stew. Desserts were simple. Day 4 The entrance of Coba ruins was less than 2 Km from Club Med. After Manuel bought the gate admission, he saw Bert, from Nanamo, carrying a camcorder. He told us that all archaeological sites in Mexico levied a surcharge of $30 for each video camera. Since Bert was the only one who carried a camcorder, he paid the surcharge. After we got in the gate, Bob said that he also paid the surcharge because he only heard the word camera. He donated extra US$4 to the site. Coba ruin was getting somewhat interesting. We saw ball courts, sacrifice stones (chopping boards for human heads <g>), huge vertical slabs (stone trees) with hieroglyphic engravings describing events. The events could be sacrifice, ball game, child birth, coronation, etc. Finally we came to Church Pyramid. It was about 30 metres high. The stones were quite rough but at least, they were in uniform shape. We went up to the pyramid. It was the tallest structure within the eye sight. Everything that touched the ground were under our feet. The back of the pyramid was a pile of rocks. Manuel told us that this site was the largest ruin in the peninsula. What we had walked was only 1%. 90% of ruins were still waiting to be unearthed. Mayans built their structures on top of the old structures. The Church pyramid was built on top of 3 other structures. Mayans never lived in the structures. They used the structures for ceremony purposes. After the ceremony, they all left. Some site, such as Tulum, they might station a few people to look after the place. But those people would stay outside of the perimeter and lived in their own hut. Mayans believed that a life cycle was very long. From birth to death was only a small part of their life journey. After death, they would move to another cycle. Since they were not afraid to die, they were the most fierce warriors. Violence showed in many cases, such as, a loser of a ball game might be sacrificed. We left the ruin and went to a small restaurant for lunch. Menu was beef, pork or chicken wrapped in banana leaf. I saw a dog calmly lying in the sun not even panting. It was 34 degree in shade. After lunch, we headed to Valladolid. The road was so narrow that could barely accommodate 2 cars. There were no centre line nor shoulders. We crossed from Quintana Roo state into Yucatan state. A group of guards guarded the state line. All traffics must stop for inspection. Salvador made us to Valladolid safely. Valladolid was once the capital of Yucatan. It was quite a large town. The hotel was an old governor house. Our wing was new, we could smell the mortar. Rooms were OK and comfortable but not luxury. William was very upset now and got Manuel to find a better hotel. I didn't think that there would be a better hotel in this town. Peter and Sheryl's children got a room with TV. We were so busy everyday that I didn't miss it a bit. Day 5 We went to Chichen Itza early. At the gate, Bert got very upset that he had to pay another $30 to bring his camcorder in. He argued with Manuel that admissions were included for this trip. Manual suggested that he could leave the camcorder at the gatekeeper. Finally Manuel offered to pay the levy from his own pocket. Bert felt bad and paid the ticket. The pyramid is the most famous in the peninsula. During the equinox, the sun and shadow will create a *serpent* body along the edge of the pyramid that lines up with the carved stone serpent head at the bottom. The morning sun strikes dead on one side of the pyramid. We missed the equinox by 2 days, however, we could see the effects. Two sides of the pyramid had been collapsed and unsuitable for climbing. There were chains anchored along the steps for weak climbers. I felt sad because the chains rubbed the stones constantly and etched obvious marks. We saw the biggest ball court, the observatory (looked exactly like our modern observatory), group of thousand columns, the nunnery, the market, the steam bath (Mayans liked sauna too), the priests graves (only a few ruin sites that have dead buried). Everything were magnificent. The stones were carefully quarried, refined and carved with no metal tools. Straight stone roads at least 5 metres wide lead to other Mayan communities, such as Coba and Uxmal. Some halls measured 5 by 10 metres with stepping outclining stones, defying the law of gravity, to form a roof. Amazingly the roofs were so strong that support other structures on top. Well, some roofs did collapse, and so as the structure on top, and became ruins. I asked Al, a civil engineer from Ottawa, how to build such strong roofs. He scratched his head and said, *Use very strong glue.* A few workers excavated the lesser known ruin using crowbars and shovels. I guess that their job was to get the stones out from soil and let the experts identify the puzzle. Some workers were patching the lawn and chalk lines around the pyramid. Manuel said that they were preparing the ground for Pavarotti concert on April 19. After lunch in Chichen Itza, we headed to Uxmal. We stayed at Club Med which looked identical to the one at Coba. There supposed a Light and Sound Show at 20:00 inside the ruin. The show was canceled due to another concert for that night. 5000 tickets had been sold out. After dinner, Manuel asked if we would try to sneak in the concert. Some of us said *"Si"*. He took us to the gate and talked to a few people. Apparently Manuel had talked to the big boss in the afternoon that he brought us all the way from Canada to attend the concert and could not get the tickets. The big boss told him to show up exactly 20:00 to let us in, but the big boss was no where in sight. The other gate keepers let us in, by naming the big boss. After all, Manuel knew just about everyone at Uxmal. The concert turned out to be the Mexico National Symphony Orchestra playing classical pieces composed by contemporary Mexicans. As a serious classical music lover, I enjoyed every minute of the concert. I particularly like the pentatonic piece. Day 6 This morning we went to Kabah first. The bus climbed up and down a hill of a few hundred metres, through a winding road. Manuel said the hill was the highest in the Yucatan. Kabah ruin was small in area and was built on a plateau. Buildings were enriched with veneer masonry. The site mainly honored rain god who had a curl up nose. Most rain god masks are in 3-dimensional shape. There were 2 large circular rings of 7 meters in diameter, flush on ground, in front of the temple. Manuel said those were the reservoirs. We stayed for about 15 minutes and headed back to Uxmal. Uxmal means thrice built. The slope of the Grand Pyramid is steep, once again, anchored with chains for weak climbers. Two thirds of the way up, there was an entrance leading into the pyramid. I went in a bit, and saw stone posts holding up the ceiling. A bat flew by my face and went out. It was smelly and damp, I decided not to explore further. Other structures were similar to what we saw in Chichen Itza but more majestic. The Magician's Pyramid is in oval shape, that was unique in Yucatan pyramids. Manuel said that all round shape objects represented female. The Governor's House was the most elegant. On spring equinox, from door of the Governor's House, one should be able to see the sunrise on the back of a 2-headed jaguar. The stones were carefully selected and carved with fine details. There were a few mounts yet to be discovered. In the afternoon, Salvador took us to Merida. We encountered rain on the way. I did not see any river (other than the underground ones), lake (other than in Coba) on this trip. It showed that Yucatan Mayans were living in a very harsh environment. Merida is the capital of Yucatan and is probably the largest city. In Merida, we checked in Hyatt, the most luxury hotel in this trip. William ought to be very happy. The hotel was new. Every features met the Hyatt standards. There was no bottled water provided in rooms, that meant the tap water perhaps fit for drinking. We did not drink the tap water. Day 7 Today was the spring equinox, it was also a holiday in memory of a certain civic hero. In the morning we walked around the hotel vicinity. There were several statutes and monuments in the neighborhood. We walked to the museum as part of agenda. It was closed due to renovation. Manuel took us to the market via the city bus. We borrowed $4 from Sheryl to pay for the fare. My wife and I did not stay around the market long and decided to walk back. Next to Hyatt is the Holiday Inn, Across from Hyatt is the Fiesta Americana which has a shopping arcade. The evening dinner was the farewell dinner. It was the best dinner. I had two bowls of conch soup. Other food was typical Yucatan style, beef, pork, chicken and fish. Dessert was very nice, I had triple servings. We also had a good cup of tea. In the past 6 days, he had tea that looked and tasted like muddy water. Day 8 After I had breakfast, Manuel showed me the Yucatan style breakfast. I had another breakfast. Salvador's bus was used to ship people to and from Chichen Itza on equinox. The news paper said that there were 50,000 people gathered by the pyramid in the morning. We loaded the bus and headed to Izamal. Izamal was a small city and once was the capital, probably in the 1700. The attraction was the Franciscan monastery, where Pope John Paul II performed a mass here a decade ago. The monastery was build on top of a Mayan ruin. The settlers help themselves to the existing stones from the ruin to build the monastery. As we walked around, we could see some stones with Mayan hieroglyphic. There was an un-excavated pyramid next to the monastery. It was tall but not exciting. After lunch, we visited a henequen process plant. Henequen is a very slow growing plant with sharp thorns at the edges of the leaves. It may take 10-15 years to harvest the first leaf. This is a dying industry because the synthetic fibre replaces the coarse henequen fibre. Most of the Mayan ruins in the Yucatan area were excavated only few years ago, we could see a little bit about the ancient Mayan culture, habitat and technology. Sites that were built during the classic period (Chichen Itza and Uxmal) show the glory of Mayan history. Sites that were built in the post classic era (Xcaret, Xel- Ha and Coba) are not that impressive.
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