Caribbean Travel Roundup

Newsletter - Paul Graveline, Editor


Caribbean Travel Roundup
Paul Graveline, Editor
Edition 86
July 15, 1998

Last Update 20 July 900 A.M. ET

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BAHAMAS: GREEN TURTLE CAY AND THE ABACO'S BY SANDY ESTABROOK

Updated summer ‘98

The  Abaco  Cays  have been called Out Islands, the Family Islands and
the  Friendly  Islands  all  of  which definitely apply. Here you will
find  friendly  native  folks,  a relatively booming economy (98) with
none  of  hustles  and  hustlers of fast paced Nassau, Paradise Island
and  Freeport.  Many  of the populated settlements were founded by the
Loyalists  back  in  1780’s. You will regularly hear the names Bethel,
Sawyer,  Lowe,  Albury,  Malone,  Sands, Thompson, Roberts, Pinder and
Macintosh through out the islands.

The  Abaco  cays (of which Green Turtle is part and where we have been
going  since 1973) start in the north at Walkers Cay working their way
100  miles or so down to Little harbor. The ocean side and many of the
passages  between  these  cays  are  covered  with  coral reefs making
passage between a bit tricky if not impossible.

Walker's  is  strictly  a sport fishing resort with it’s own operating
air  strip  (albeit wreck strewn). It's reputation is world wide. Many
sport  fisherman  keep  their  yachts  berthed  there and fly in for a
weekend  of  fishing  fun. There are numerous tournaments here through
out  the  year,  and  was  once  famous  for  their "Shootout" between
Hatteras  and  Bertram  owners  now  being  held at Boat Harbour Marsh
Harbour.  Walker's native workers live on the adjacent island of Grand
Cay  who's  main  (and  only) attraction is “Rosie's Restaurant” where
you  can  get  their  famous  combo  of  Cracked  Conch, Turtle Steak,
Lobster Tail and Grilled Grouper.

Working   southward  you  will  pass  a  half  a  dozen  or  so  large
uninhabited  cays.  Most  have  their own protected and secluded spots
where  you  will  always find a few boats anchored. Lying between them
and  on their Atlantic side are some of the most beautiful coral reefs
between  here and South America. Shooting up from depths of from 20 to
200  feet  are  these  towering  stands  of coral. It’s truly a divers
paradise  and a well kept secret. Passage between these islets and the
fishing  grounds  outside  can  only be made at a few select locations
and with local knowledge.

Spanish  Cay  is  the  first of the outlying cays after Grand that has
any  population  and  those  folks  are those attached with the resort
there.  There is an airstrip and a fine marina attached to the “Resort
at  Spanish  Cay”.  Outside  of  what  the  resort  offers, dive shop,
restaurant,  bar with occasional Calypso singer, there isn’t a heck of
a  lot  to  there.  Beaches  on this Island are nowhere near what will
find  on others along the route. An earlier owner of the island (Clint
Murchison  who  owned  the  Dallas  Cowboys)  removed  the Casuarina’s
(Australian  Pines)  which have all but undermined the natural foliage
of  this  (and  other)  islands.  Instead he replanted the island with
thousands  of  coconut palms and other tropical trees. Although I cant
say  for  sure,  I  suspect  these  new  plantings, many of them berry
producing,  attract the many types of birds that we’ve noticed on this
island as compared to other cays.

The  next  cay  you  come  to  with  any population (20 Miles south of
Spanish  Cay)  is  Green Turtle and the one we are most familiar with.
We  have  been going to Green Turtle cay (almost annually) since 1973.
Those  were  the days of Mackey airlines. Things have changed a lot in
25+  years. There were no cars on G.T. back then. Electricity was only
provided  for  the village of New Plymouth. The clubs at the other end
had  their  own  generators.  A  flash  light was a necessary item for
travel  since  the electricity would go off regularly. - "The good ole
days  in  the  Bahamas". Radio was the primary means of communications
(and  still  is, only now VHF instead of CB). And of course you didn't
see  the many satellite dishes that have sprung up. Recently the small
satellite  dishes  and  cellular  have made their impact on the island
folks.  Believe  it  or  not  as of 1996 a Internet site was set up in
Marsh  Harbour!  (http://oii.net/)  and  by  1998  quite  a few of the
merchants  and  resorts had their own web site. 1997 was the year that
G.T.  started  getting  it’s  electricity  from  the mainland of Great
Abaco.

During  our  early  trips  we would take our kids. I was a great place
when  they  were  growing  up.  We didn’t have to worry about a thing.
They  could  run  around  all they wanted , as kids still can, I might
add.

It  was  originally settled by the loyalists in the 1770's. Lobstering
and  tourism  are  main industries of the island today. The quaint and
picturesque  village  of  New Plymouth serves most of the needs of the
Islanders.  Access  to  the  Island is of course only by boat. A ferry
(the  "BOLO" (II & III), Neigel, Larry or Curtis will probably be your
captain)  runs  from  anywhere on the island to a dock on the mainland
serving  the  airport  (by  land  Taxi)  at  Treasure  Cay. Connecting
commuter  flights  here  are to Miami, West Palm Beach, Ft. Lauderdale
Orlando  and  Nassau.  (Incidentally Treasure Cay is not a Cay anymore
but  the name of the mainland resort and the airport serving that area
of  Great  Abaco.  It  boasts one of the most beautiful crescent white
sand  beaches  in  the Abaco’s. It’s beach is on Great Abaco Sound and
therefore has no reefs for snorkeling.)

There  is  in  New  Plymouth  a half a dozen restaurants including the
some  first  class  dining at the “New Plymouth Inn” (although not air
conditioned  as  of  6/98).  A  favorite  night  spot for the visiting
yachtsman  are  “Miss  Emily's  Blue  Bee Bar”, (the originator of the
Goombay  Smash),  Miss  Emily passed away in early 1997 and is now run
by  her  daughter  Violet.  Just next door is “Bert's Sea Garden”, and
both  open  an  their  mood  dictates  but usually in the evenings and
especially  on weekends. Then there’s the Island's hot spot, “Roosters
Rest”  where  on  the  weekend you can find the Gully Roosters playing
Reggae  and  Soca  (Calypso).  For  native dinning there is always the
“Wrecking   Tree”   and   the  “Rainbow  Restaurant”.  Then  there  is
everybody's  all  time favorite “Laura's (carbohydrate) Kitchen”, just
up  the  street from the town dock. Here you will get your plate piled
high  with  food  for  a  reasonable  price. A reservation is strongly
suggested.  Our  favorite  native restaurant was the “Sea View” run by
Maxine  Macintosh,  however  she  married a Customs Officer closed the
restaurant  and moved to Nassau. As of early ‘98 her father has opened
it  once  again  serving  the  native  dishes  we  remember. Above the
hardware  on  New  Plymouth Main street is a new restaurant called The
Islands  Restaurant.  Its  small but air conditioned. Finally there is
Mikes  Bar & Restaurant - right on the water and probably has the best
view  of  all in town. Like so many others their schedule is sporadic.
Check first, you can hail them all your VHF.

At  this  point  we  should  say  something about the Bahamian food in
general.  Despite  the variety of fresh local fish their preference is
to  fry,  and  fry  everything. You can get broiled but it is sometime
difficult  and  or  has  to  be  ordered  in  advance.  In the upscale
restaurants  this  is  not  the  case  but rather the exception except
maybe  at  lunch.  Fresh  greens  are  hard to find and a red tomato -
forget  it.  Their  staples are peas & rice, macaroni & cheese, French
fries  and  coleslaw.  Now  the  water,  that is another thing. In the
Abaco's  (which  ain't  Mexico)  we  drink it right out of the tap and
have  been  doing  so  for 25 years with no problems. It is either sea
water  purified  by  reverse  osmosis (the Green Turtle Club and other
places)  or filtered rain water. Buying bottled water wont help, it is
the  same  stuff. Fact is they sell it to their cruising guests in the
marina for upwards of 15 cents a gallon!

Cottage  rentals  are available not far from New Plymouth. A few names
that  come  to  mind are Linton's Cottages, Star Cottages and Long Bay
House  which  are  near  beaches  close  to town. Others Like Coco Bay
Cottages  can  be  found at the more pristine north end of the island.
Still  others  can  be  found  listed  in  the  classified of yachting
magazines  like  Southern  Boating,  Yachting Power & Motor Yacht etc.
“Islands”  magazine  and  “Caribbean  Travel  &  Life”  routinely have
listings.

At  the  north  end  of  the island in White Sound, you will find “The
Green  Turtle  Club”  and the “Bluff House”. There is standing rivalry
between  them  both  as the managers of each are sisters (and or their
husbands).  Seems  even  in  paradise there are family feuds. There is
quite  a story on how this animosity came about but that's for another
time.

Both  have  first  class restaurants (order in advance), and the Bluff
House  a fantastic view. Both have marinas with rooms and cottages for
rent.  The  G.T.C.  has cottages right on the water. This writer finds
The  G.T.C.  a  little  more  upbeat and an easier spot to explore the
north  end and its beaches. The Green Turtle Club Bar is a lively spot
hosted  by  ever  smiling  Debi  or Gerri. (In the spring of 1998 Geri
moved  to  Grand  Cay  (I  suspect temporarily) to be with her husband
Sidney  who’s  yellow  fishing  boat  sits  sunk in front of the Bluff
House  dock  - again that’s another story). The girls will gladly whip
you  up  a  great  Tipsy Turtle (which will do the job for which it is
intended).  The  Green Turtle Club Bar is a favorite stop over for the
cruising  yachtsman  and  often  the  nights are spent in conversation
with  them and of their travels. On Wednesday the Gully Roosters comes
over  from  town  (with  half  the population) to play at the club. On
Fridays and Mondays, other entertainment is provided.

At  this  point  we have to mention Brendal (the unofficial Ambassador
of  the  Goombay  Spirit).  He used entertain you at the G.T. bar with
his  one  man  band  and  ran the clubs dive shop and has been for the
last  20 years anyway. But as of the fall ‘97 he has had a falling out
with  the club and is no longer associated with it. As of spring 98 he
has  opened  his  own dive shop right across the street from the clubs
(which  is  now run by a nice Bahamian fellow named Leon). It’s sad to
see this situation.

I  might interject at this point, the G.T.C. is within a 5 minute walk
to  a  lovely  bay beach at Coco Bay and 15 minute walk to a beautiful
stretch  of  ocean  beaches with all the diving and snorkeling you may
want. Add another 15 minutes if from the Bluff house.

As  far  as  diving goes both the a fore mentioned dive shops can take
you  on  any  type dive you want, however our favorite is the day trip
where  he  will  catch your lunch and cook it for you on a uninhabited
beach.  There  are  also  a  couple  of  boat  rental  companies Donny
Sawyer's  and  Danes.  A  small  runabout  is a must to get you to the
uninhabited  neighboring  islands of Noname Cay and Manjack Cay. Their
boats  are usually beet to hell but seem somehow to always work. A new
place  has  opened  in  late  97  called Reef Rentals that has all new
boats  which  we have not yet had any dealing. They all can be reached
by VHF radio.

There  are  hardware,  gift  and food markets in New Plymouth albeit a
bit  pricey.  Finally,  a  visit  to  Albert  Lowe's museum is worth a
visit.  Remember  these  are  the  out  islands. Merchandise has to be
shipped  to  Marsh  Harbour  via  Nassau  or  the  states  then to the
outlying  cays,  This plus a 25% duty on many items makes things a bit
costly.

The  fishing, diving and beach combing are great; as good as anywhere,
even  in  the Caribbean. Evenings are spent with the boating folks who
often  return.  The native population is as friendly as can be. Blacks
&  Whites mix without any problems. A truly homogeneous little spot in
the  world. The original white settlers descendants are still here and
consist  of  primarily  two families Sawyers & Lowe's. They have a lot
of similar looking features (understandably).

If  sport  fishing  is  your  thing,  contact the Sawyers, a family of
fishing  guides.  The  old  man  Joe  is the best and most experienced
although  he  is  "sort  of  semi  retired". If he is busy try his son
Ronny.  Another  very  popular  guide  is  native fellow named Lincoln
Jones.  Any  and all of them can take you any type of fishing you like
deep  sea to flat fishing for bone fish. If you can bring a marine VHF
Walkie  talkie  with  you,  just  hail them on channel 16. Most of the
islands communications are by radio this way.

The  main  Islands  south of here have a similar constituent. They are
Great  Guana  Cay.  Man-O-War Cay , and Elbow Cay with it's village of
Hopetown.  Marsh  Harbor is Abaco’s commercial hub and the Bahamas 3rd
city  after Nassau and Freeport. It is on the mainland of Great Abaco.
It  has  an  airport with connecting flights to the States and Nassau.
The  town  sort of forms a triangle between, and is the jump off point
(water taxi) to the off shore cays of Man-O-War and Hopetown.

Guana  Cay’s north end (Bakers Bay) has been the “Treasure Island” for
those  “Big  Red Boats” that made this their out island paradise stop.
We  are  happy  to report, that due to uncertain weather conditions of
the  infamous  Whale Key Passage in this area, as of fall 94 they were
no  longer stopping. However, Disney has bought a new island in a more
protected  area  for  this  purpose  which  was  called Gorda Cay, now
Castaway  Island.  It  is located south east of Great Abaco Island and
is scheduled for opening in early 1998.

Guana  Cay  has  a picturesque small settlement (pop 95) with a couple
shops  and restaurants. Here you really feel you are really at an “Out
Island”.  The  reef strewn beaches and reefs that line the 5.5 mile of
ocean  side  are  reputedly the most beautiful in all the Abaco's with
every  shade of blue and turquoise and have the quality one might find
in  the South Pacific minus the palm trees. The settlement adjoins the
“Great   Guana  Resort”  which  provides  accommodations  and  a  fine
restaurant  which  is  open  for  breakfast,  lunch  and dinner. (like
always  reservations  for  dinner  can  be  made  by  VHF  radio). The
resort’s  equivalent  of the Tipsy Turtle and the Goombay Smash is the
Guana  Grabber  -  not  too  unlike  the  others  but  with  a hint of
grapefruit  juice.  Recently  opened  (spring  ‘96)  is “Nippers” is a
trendy  new  place  that lives up to its reputation for its view, on a
bluff  overlooking the ocean - Spectacular. The food is another thing.
Not  bad,  just  typical  island fried everything and tomatoes without
color.  Half  way  between  Bakers Bay and the settlement an new small
resort  opened in 1998 called Seaside Village. It’s property runs from
ocean  to  bay  and is only accessible by boat. It is a cozy spot with
about eight rooms and dining room.

All  in all, Guana is more laid back than G.T. but has a reputation as
the  getaway  party  spot  for  the  folks  from  the neighboring cays
despite  the  fact  there  are only a couple of places to party. Their
Marina  here offers free dockage if you stay for dinner which attracts
lots of yachties especially on Barbecue (Friday) nights.

Man-O-War  is  a  busy boat building island of God fearing (no alcohol
sold  on this Island), hard working folks 70% of which can trace their
ancestry  to  the  first Albury who at age 16 fathered the first of 13
children  with  his 13 year old wife. It is a great spot for all kinds
of  quality  boat  work  and  parts.  Marina  facilities are available
however  restaurants  and  lodging  is  sparse. Still a spot not to be
missed  if  staying  at  one  of the neighboring islands. No yachtsmen
would  miss  it especially if in need of repairs. As mentioned earlier
the  Internet has hit the islands in a big way. The “Man-O-War Marina”
even  offers  E-Mail  services  for it’s guests. The "Albury's" Canvas
Shop  is  the  place  to see. Here you'll find the town ladies making
all  sorts  of  bags  and hats out of canvas. Despite the enterprising
nature  of  it’s residents, restaurants are in short supply however we
enjoyed  an  evening  meal  at  Ena’a  restaurant  one of the two very
casual  eateries  on  the  island.  You  will  find another restaurant
dockside  is  at the marina. As with just about all the restaurants in
the cays dinner selection is made when you make your reservation.

Marsh  Harbour  is  the commercial hub of the Abaco's and the Bahama’s
third  largest  city.  It  is  on  the  mainland  of Abaco and forms a
triangle  with Man-O-War and Elbow Cay. Here you can feel the pulse of
activity  and  commerce.  You  will also find a culture of the sailing
community  enroute  to  places far and wide. Hundreds of yachts mostly
sailboats  will  be  anchored  in  Marsh Harbour at any given time and
it’s  winter  hangout  for the northern folks. Just tune in VHF Marine
radio  Ch 68 at 8:15 AM daily to catch up on all the comings and going
and  parties  too. Marsh has some really great restaurants and bars to
gather  and hang out with the yachties during their happy hours. It is
not  unusual bump into a couple just returning from a circumnavigation
as  this  writer  has. A good many of these are within a short walking
distance  of  the  old  established “Conch Inn and Marina” which a few
years  back  became the base of the “Moorings Charter” operation. From
here  the  town  is  just  a  10  minute walk and other hot spots like
“Wally’s”,  “Mangoes”  and  “Sapodillys”  are  found all along harbors
edge  near by. In town there is a luncheonette style restaurant called
the  “Golden  Grouper”. On the other side of the harbour is the “Marsh
Harbour  Marina  and  Jib  Room”  which  was taken over in 1997 by a a
young  couple  Tom  and  Linda Leffler who hail from the Tampa. If you
can  make  the  trip  outside  Marsh  Harbour to Dundas Town check out
“Mother  Merles”  a  delightfully  renowned native restaurant and also
the  “Bayview  Seafood  Restaurant”.  The  Largest  Marina in Marsh is
actually  not  on  the  harbour  but  rather on the less protect Abaco
Sound  side.  It’s  called  “Boat Harbour”, and along with it’s “Abaco
Beach  Hotel”  is  a  full  scale  resort.  It  seems  there is always
something going on here especially for the sport fisherman.

Need a Taxi when in Marsh? You can call them on VHF channel 06.

Despite  all  the  positive  things  I can say about Marsh Harbour, it
cant  be  called  it a vacation spot yet can be a good base to explore
the  outlying  cays.  Just  the same it’s worth 2-3 days on a two week
trip  in  the Abaco's. More than likely Marsh Harbour will probably be
your  point  of  arrival (if not Treasure Cay) when flying in from the
States.  Rather  than  go  into great detail about Marsh Harbour here,
pick  up  a  copy  of “The Cruising Guide to the Abaco's” by Steve and
Jeff  Dodge.  Available  at  all  yachting supply stores (it’s updated
annually).  Further  more  you’ll get a better feeling for things from
the yachtsman’s perspective when traveling in the Abaco's.

Elbow  Cay  with  it’s  village  of Hopetown (the names are often used
interchangeably)  is  famous for its Red and White Striped Lighthouse.
Reputedly  one  of  the  most photographed attractions in the Bahamas.
Hopetown  is  a  lively  small village with colorful restaurants, bars
and  Inn's.  There  is a small quaint museum of artifacts from earlier
times.  Life  surrounds  the  harbor on this Island which has only one
narrow  (and  shallow)  opening for the many visiting yachtsmen. There
are  a  half  of  dozen restaurants in the area including those at the
hotels  at  “Club  Soleil”  and  “Hopetown  Harbour Lodge”. (ask about
their  Sunday  Champagne brunch). As of spring 98 the latter installed
air  conditioning,  so  there  is no sense telling you about a dinning
experience  we  had  prior.  Don't  assume that all restaurants in the
Cays  have  A/C,  and  open air dining in the evening without a breeze
can  be  uncomfortable  during  the warmer month because of mosquitoes
and flies.

My  favorite  and lease expensive restaurant is, “Captain Jacks” which
is  right on the water. (it’s for sale as of 7/98 - if I was younger).
Next  to  Captain  Jacks,  down  the  harbour  a bit and a little more
expensive  is  the “Harbour's Edge”. Both have bands a couple a nights
a  week  and  the latter a lively pool table. “Rudy’s Place” is famous
for  excellent  fish, lobster and duck dishes some of which have to be
ordered  the  day before. They are located in the middle of the island
however  he  will  send  transportation.  Again  call by VHF radio for
reservation.

Three  miles  south of Hopetown on Elbow Cay is The “Sea Spray Resort”
run  by  Monty Albury who owns and runs the resort with his wife Ruth.
They  have  full  marina  facilities  and  rooms and cottages for rent
along  with informal restaurant. They too offer a traditional Barbecue
pool  side  on  certain  nights a week. Near by is “The Abaco Inn” and
their  more upscale restaurant which over looks the Ocean - absolutely
beautiful.  Be sure to try a Banana Flavored Yellow Bird and something
called the Conch Pearl, God knows what was in them.

Continuing  down  the chain, the last stopping spot for the yachtsmen,
is  Little  Harbor.  It  is  actually on the mainland of Abaco and the
jump  off  spot for boaters headed to Eleuthera and the Islands to the
south.  It  is  accessible by road from Marsh Harbour. Just follow the
road  to  the  settlement  of  Cherokee.  Little Harbor is a protected
anchorage  with  lots  of turtles poking there heads our of the water.
Here  you  will  find  only  “Pete’s  Beach Bar” that sometimes serves
Burgers  at  lunch  only.  More  importantly this the home of the late
Randolph  Johnson who made home here 30 years ago after being marooned
during  a  hurricane.  You can even explore the caves where he and his
family  took  shelter.  Mr. Johnson was an artist so he set up a small
foundry  where  he  made his bronze castings which he sold to visiting
yachts   folks.  Soon  his  fame  spread  till  the  point  where  the
Government  commissioned him to make his now famous statue in downtown
Nassau.  Unfortunately Mr. Johnson dyed in 1992 and is survived by his
wife  who  still runs the gift shop with the artistic traditions being
continued by his son Pete.

When  in  Marsh  Harbour  you might want to rent a car and explore the
settlements  to  the  south like Sandy Point and Hole in the Wall. The
following  is  a  tale  from  one  of our cruising experiences that we
upload from time to time.

“While  in  Marsh  Harbour, we rented a car to explore the settlements
on  Abaco not easily accessible by boat. We drove 60 miles through the
pine  barons  to Abaco’s southwestern most settlement, Sandy Point. As
we  arrived  the  Churches  were  letting  out  and  all the women and
children  were  dressed  in  their Sunday finery. We couldn’t help but
wonder where in the Abaco's could they buy such pretty clothes.

This  picturesque  community  of  about 200 make their living from the
sea.  We  stopped  by  to talk to a couple of fishermen (not attending
church)  who went out of their way to tell us of their work. They also
spoke  of  new  work  opportunities  for  their  village  due  to it’s
proximity  to  Gorda Cay eight miles off shore. Gorda Cay was recently
purchased  by  Walt  Disney  to be the new out island home of Disney's
“Big  Red  Boats”. Most of the labor will come from the folks of Sandy
Point.  Later,  we  found  a  spot  on  its  tip  in the shade of some
casuarina’s   looking  out  at  Gorda  Cay  to  have  a  picnic  while
thunderstorms loomed on all horizons”.

The  Abaco's  are truly a Yachtsman paradise, however all of the spots
mentioned  can  be  visited relatively easy by the landlubber. You can
enjoy  the  privacy of out lying unspoiled smaller islands and beaches
that  can  be  reached  by  renting a small outboard motor boat at the
many  rental services at the cays. That’s how this writer and his wife
started  and  fell  in love with the Abaco's 25 years ago. This writer
has  in  recent  times  chronicled  his travels in the Abaco's by boat
after   moving   to   Florida   in  1990  and  uploaded  them  to  the
rec.boats.cruising  newsgroups  of the internet. In 1998 he & his wife
flew  over  to  Marsh  rented a 22 footer from Rainbow Rentals (one of
the  many)  and made the 30 mile trip to G.T spent six days there then
headed  south  for  four  days at the Hopetown Lodge with stops at the
other  cays  as  day trips from those locations. This type of approach
to  seeing  the islands is not recommended for folks not familiar with
boating,  navigation  and using a GPS (the first time anyway). This is
not  to say that renting a smaller 13-15 boat once at your destination
and  staying  “close  to  home”  would cause you and difficulty. But a
boat  is a must when visiting the cays. There are literally dozens and
dozens  of  beaches  and  or islands that you and your, whomever, will
find yourselves being the only people there.

And  finally  one  last note, if you are into history, you might enjoy
poking  around the cemeteries on the cays and reading the epitaphs. It
is  not  uncommon  to  find them over looking the sea at a spectacular
location like the one on Hopetown’s upper road.

For  more  on the Abaco's you might want to check out: http://oii.net/
Or  pick up a copy of “The Cruising Guide to the Abaco's” by Steve and
Jeff  Dodge.  Available  at  all  yachting supply stores (it’s updated
annually).

BAHAMAS: SANDALS ROYAL BAHAMIAN BY DEBBIE HOFFREN

Trip May 23-30,1998

Trip to Nassau/Cable Beach

We  originally booked our trip on a charter which used Continental air
and  was  scheduled  for June 28-July 5. We booked the land separately
through  All-Inclusive  Vacations.  We received a credit card bill and
immediately  noticed  a subtraction from the balance for the amount of
the  airfare  and  found  that  the  charter  had  been canceled, that
Continental  didn't  honor  the  fare,  and  that the travel agent and
Continental  both  didn't notify us or try to get our business for the
same  time  schedule.  As  a  result, we had no air booked. Todd had a
conflict  in his schedule by then, anyway, so we moved the trip to May
23-30  and  let  All-Inclusive Vacations book us on American. This was
an  extra  $123  per  person.  We  had  booked the trip because of the
direct flight. This flight was through Miami.

Our  trip was on a Saturday. We got up and did last minute packing. We
went  to  Champs  for  breakfast  buffet,  as  we  are acquainted with
American's  food.  We  arrived  at  the  airport at nearly 11 a.m. The
parking  lot  was  nearly  full, and we followed the representative as
she  literally  ran all the way across the length of the place to find
one  little  space.  We  waited  a bit for the bus, and it went to our
terminal  last.  This  time,  they  had  wised up and had a Miami-only
line,  and  we  got through quickly. The 12:32 flight boarded at noon.
Unfortunately,  the  pilot had not made it in, so we left after 1 p.m.
They  made  up  no  time, and we got to Miami at 4:30 p.m. We made our
way  to  terminal  D  to  gate  D10D (American Eagle). The bus came on
time,  but  we  sat on the bus outside the plane for a few minutes. We
left  10 minutes late and arrived in Nassau 10 minutes late at 6:30 on
the  68-person  propjet.  The  airport was pretty nice (read -- it had
a/c).  Customs  was  easy. They had several baggage carousels, but the
guys  just  threw  the  bags out on the floor in mass. The Sandals rep
greeted  us  quickly and got us on our way to Royal Bahamian. The ride
lasted  10  minutes and was not wild like Jamaica. We saw no ocean the
whole  ride,  as it was a back road. By the time we got to the resort,
we  had tipped a baggage guy, who loaded our stuff at the Sandals desk
and took it to the bus, and the bus driver.

Check  in  was almost too fast but included a glass of champagne and a
cool  towel.  We  gave  an imprint of our Visa and were given two room
keys  and  a  safe  deposit  key,  after  we  signed  a  form. We were
instructed  to  bring  Todd's  golf  bag  back the next day, as we had
clothes  in the bag packed around the clubs. This was to save the trip
down  the elevator and stairs with them. Todd elected to keep them all
week and carry them himself.

The Room

We  were  in  room  425 in the Manor House. Since Royal Bahamian is so
expensive  and  we  just  went  to Sandals Dunn's River last month, we
booked  Deluxe,  the  cheapest category. From what I could tell by the
brochure  descriptions,  we had been upgraded one category to premium,
although  we  did  not  get  a  slip indicating an upgrade, and when I
mentioned  our  room  number  and  category to the general manager, it
didn't  appear  that we had been upgraded. The room had a lot of floor
space.  There  was  a king-sized bed, armoire, table with thick, plush
chairs,  a  stand  for  coffee and tea setup, a large closet, a marble
bath  (almost  no  room  for  toiletries),  two  night  stands,  and a
separate  little  room  with a dressing table and mirror, a 2nd mirror
(full  length),  hair  dryer,  and  double  plug in. All furniture was
cherry  or  mahogany.  The  view  was of the courtyard and part of the
pool.  The  balcony  was  long  but had no chairs. The room would have
been  great  for non-room people. We are room people, and this was the
biggest  drawback  of the trip but pretty much no big deal. The TV had
quite  a  few  stations.  Unfortunately, it was able to receive Todd's
basketball  games.  We  had  a problem with one or two of the stations
where at times we would get only sound and no picture.

All  rooms  in  the  Manor House above the first floor have balconies.
However,  only  the  luxury  category  has chairs on the balcony. Some
rooms  have  room  for  them,  but  there on no chairs. The grand luxe
oceanfront  offers  a  beautiful  view,  but  the  balcony is not wide
enough  for  a  chair.  The honeymoon concierge rooms are in the Manor
House  and  offer  views of pool or gardens. The honeymoon one bedroom
suite  and the honeymoon villa suite are both in the gardens. There is
no  view of the main pool or beach, but there are several small pools,
one  Jacuzzi, and several hammocks nestled back there. It is quiet and
not  crowded  outside  back  there. When the new side opens (scheduled
for  October  1),  I  believe  there is a new honeymoon suite category
that will offer an ocean view.

The Property

The  resort  felt  more  crowded  than Royal Jamaican but less crowded
than  Dunns.  It was about as crowded as MoBay feels to me. The resort
is  quite compact. Just about everywhere you go, there is some upscale
setting  --  the  chandeliers,  the  statues,  the water dripping from
walls,  rocks,  and columns. Everywhere is just beautiful. The spa was
big  and  extensive,  and you could get to it from outside by the pool
or  from  the rooms through a back way. The workout area is on the 7th
floor  of  the  Manor  House (you take stairs from the 6th floor), and
the  entire  back  wall  offers a chance to view the ocean and Sandals
Cay,  the  offshore island, as you work. There are two balconies to go
out  on  from  the  fitness center. Both offer a nice view. The Villas
offer  a  hiding  place  to  stay,  and  there are several pools and a
Jacuzzi  nestled back there. The largest pool back there is quite nice
and  next  to  the  Jacuzzi.  That  Jacuzzi  was  a  nice temperature,
consistently,  as  was the pool. This was a nice place to go after the
appetizer  happy  hour.  Some  of the deluxe rooms are back there, and
the  honeymoon  suites  are  there. The patios have an umbrella table,
and  this  would not be a bad location unless you are too close to the
road.  At  that point, there is some chance you might hear cars go by.
The  construction  wouldn't bother you if you were to visit, but it is
easy to tell that there will be quite a few more oceanview rooms.

The  wedding  gazebo  has two cherubs and is in the brochures. You are
literally  over  the  ocean, and it seems very romantic. It would be a
challenge  to  get across the sand in your gown, as there really isn't
a  path.  Receptions  are held on the side patio of Spices. There were
usually  about  2  weddings  a  day.  Everyone  we  saw  had different
flowers.  Brides  were escorted down the stairs and over to the gazebo
while  music  played  across  the  property.  Witnesses  wore tropical
outfits  from  the current era, unless, of course, the bride and groom
had their own witnesses.

The  Manor  House is the main building. On the first floor, there is a
bar.  They  serve appetizers between 5:30 and 6:30 p.m. outside in the
lobby.  This  is  very  popular. The backside of this bar is the piano
bar.  Most  nights,  there  is a sing-along held at 10:00. There is an
elegant  sit-around  table built around the piano, and there are other
nice  chairs around, too. Some nights, the piano was played during the
happy hour.

Unlike  many of the Jamaica Sandals resorts, the Royal Bahamian offers
a  terrific  setup  for sunset viewing. On our visit, this was about 8
p.m.  Some  nights  it  was too overcast to see much. There are tables
set  up outside and a pier that goes out in several directions and has
two  swings. Several people sit, and several people stand to watch the
event.  Times  of  sunrise  and sunset were posted at the towel hut on
the  beach.  There are great fish to feed from the pier in quite a few
varieties,  and  it  is fun to watch the BIG ones as the come bouncing
along  the  water.  The  fish  only  came  out  periodically,  and  we
suspected  some  of  the  boats  often scared them off. The water even
near  the  shore  is  so  clear  that  it  makes  just  standing there
exciting.

The  beach isn't really long, but it is nice. The sand was thick and a
bit  difficult to walk in quickly. Watersports are the typical Sandals
variety,  and  there  is  optional jetski right there on the beach. In
addition  to  the  Sandals  large-wheeled aqua trikes, there were also
aqua  bikes  for  two  that  had  bottoms  something like a hobie cat.
Supposedly,  you  can book parasailing, too. The beach is private, but
it  is  shared  with  a nearby property or two. This is not a big deal
because  few  people  try  to  sell you anything. Although you can see
other  properties, you can't walk down the beach to them, as there are
rock  barriers  that  prevent it. If you want to stay somewhere with a
stretch of beach to walk down, I recommend the Marriott.

You  can  see Sandals Cay from the beach of the Royal Bahamian, but it
is  too  far  to  swim.  The boat takes guests out there about once an
hour.  There  is  a  pool, Jacuzzi (not hot tub), and a restaurant out
there.  Some  guests  were  topless on the back of the island but only
laying  on  stomachs  with  nothing  visible. Nudity is illegal in the
Bahamas,  and  the resort is very conscious of what happens and where.
We  did  hear  about  an  episode one night on the island where guests
were  pouring  liquor  all  over  each  other and licking it off. Some
guests  were  offended  and  took  the  boat  back.  This, I doubt, is
typical.

The  resort  offers  many  interesting  settings.  The restaurants are
quite  classy.  Baccarat,  Crystal  Room,  the  Pub,  Spices  are  all
interesting.  Even  the  Royal  Grill  is  a  nice setup. The property
offers  the  opportunity  for  a  la  carte  dining at all 3 meals, or
guests  can  opt  for  buffet  breakfast  or  lunch  or  room  service
breakfast.  However,  as  at  other  Sandals golf resorts, there is no
early option for golfers.

Some  of  the entertainment is held at the Royal Theatre (a nightclub)
indoors.  This  backs  up  to  a large bar on one side. That bar has a
popular  self-serve  area  of  non-alcoholic  drinks.  The  mango  and
strawberry  slush  are  fat-free.  The  mango was very good. Sometimes
there  were  no  glasses there and it was necessary to wait in line at
the  bar.  The bar also had a window at the back for walk-up customers
from  the  beach.  There were many seats there and a TV that seemed to
be  always  showing  sports.  The manager's cocktail party was held in
and out of this bar.

A  billiard  room offers pool at 2 tables. It is usually in use. There
are  checkers  and  another game in there (backgammon or chess). There
is  another  game  room,  also.  That is the snooker table outside the
pub.  The  ping pong tables are under roof. Tennis courts are out near
the  villas,  as are a huge chess set and shuffleboard. There is beach
volleyball  and  a  basketball  net  in  the pool. Tennis equipment is
right  out  at  the court in a rack hanging on the wall. The equipment
looked  new.  There  was bottled water next to the equipment. There is
also bottled water near the pool bar.

There  are  several  Jacuzzis  and a hot (sometimes scalding) and cold
plunge  pool  near the spa. The misting pool offers a great setting to
lounge and get cool air as you watch one of the dripping waterfalls.

Behind  the  villas,  there is a guard and an exit to the Sandals gift
shop,  Royal Tings.. It is possible to get to the gift shop by walking
down  the  driveway  from  the  main entrance, also. Across the street
from  the  gift  shop,  there  is  a  strip  center. It houses Subway,
Dominos,  a  T-shirt shop, a dentist, and some other things. I did not
find  anything I wanted to buy over there. If you want to buy rum, buy
it  there  or  at  the  airport.  I did not see any at the resort gift
shop.

The resort entrance, courtyard, two lobbies -- all is QUITE elegant.

Sandals  Cay  --  on  Monday  afternoon,  we took the boat over to the
island  at  2:15.  It  runs  at  15 past every hour. By this time, the
restaurant  had  finished  serving. We did not intend to eat there, as
we  had enough conch dishes on the main island. There is more beach on
Sandals  Cay than at the resort. There is a beach on both sides of the
island.  The  pool  is  small,  and  the Jacuzzi was not a hot tub (at
least  there  was  no  heat  when  we were there). There is a full bar
there.  If  you  order  soda, you get the whole can (yes, can!). There
are  a few other huts on the island that do not belong to Sandals. The
island is a good place to go if you want away from the crowds.

Tours off property:

Gambling  Excursion  --  -Sandals  provides free transportation to the
Marriott  for  the  casino  excursion  beginning  at  6 p.m. every day
except  Monday.  Some  staff  will tell you that the bus leaves on the
hour.  Others  will say a quarter after the hour. On Sunday night, the
bus  came  at  6:25. The bus returns from the Marriott on the hour. We
arrived  at 8:02 and missed the bus. We were early for the 9 p.m. bus,
and  it  was prompt. On Sunday, Todd and I had set a loss limit of $50
each.  I  expected  to  lose  that fast enough to take pictures of the
Marriott  and next door at the Radisson. That did not happen, however.
I  eventually lost $20 at roulette and $30 very quickly between dollar
and  quarter  slots. I went back to roulette with Todd where he turned
$20  into  about  $350.  However,  I  gambled  a little of his, and we
missed  the bus. He ended up with $300 or a little more by the time we
got  back  to  the  bus.  Drinks were offered faster than anyone could
have  possibly drunk them and were large. There was a drunken guy that
kept  taking  my  chips  because  he was confused. I did get all of my
money,  and  he eventually moved on. Minimum bets for roulette were $1
on the numbers and $5 on the outside, for a total $5 minimum.

The  Marriott  is  close  enough  to  walk  to. I walked down there by
myself  on  Friday  afternoon.  I  felt  quite safe. It was about a 12
minute  walk each way. You can also take the number 10 bus down there.
On  this  trip,  I  eventually  lost $110 at roulette but used $10 for
quarter  slots.  After  using  $8.25 of it, I put 3 quarters in a Wild
Cherry  machine  and  won  $250  (1000 coins). The bucket was full and
heavy.  I  cashed  that in and walked back to Sandals. Todd was in the
room just back from golf.

Golf

Golf  can  be  booked  at the tour desk. Green fees and transportation
are  included  in the all-inclusive price. Cart is required and is $30
per  person.  Call  30 minutes before your tee time for the bus to the
Radisson.  A  cart  is  $30 and is required. This is the total cost if
you  bring  your  own  clubs.. Todd went 3 times -- Monday, Wednesday,
and  Friday.  All 3 days, he had tee times before 7:30. On Friday, the
shuttle  never  came,  and  he found out that the people from the golf
club  are  on  "slow  down".  That  is  their  first  step in contract
negotiations.  If  they  don't  get what they want, they go on strike.
Anyway,  Marcia  at  the tour desk was very helpful in getting Todd in
on  Friday  afternoon. He played better each time, getting a 71 on the
third day. He said the course is very short.

Offshore Island

Trips  to Sandals Cay offshore island are available every hour. Dinner
at  Cafe  Goombay,  the island there, requires reservations. There are
two times for this -- 6:15 and 8:15 in the evening.

Tours

Many  tours are available at an extra charge. They include things such
as  swimming with dolphins, powerboat over to an out island for an eco
tour,  Crystal  Cay  and  other  underwater  viewing places, catamaran
cruises, parasailing and banana boat tours, and Stingray City.

On  Tuesday,  we  made our own tour to downtown and the Atlantis hotel
on  Paradise  Island. Maps of Nassau/Cable Beach and a detailed map of
downtown  can be obtained at the tour desk. Marcia at the tour desk is
very  helpful  and friendly. We went out to the street and immediately
caught  the #10 bus (the #38 will work, too). It costs 75 cents to get
on,  but  if  you give them a dollar, you will not get change. The bus
is  very  safe,  as  is walking around. Other passengers are locals or
other  tourists.  The  bus stops near Radisson, Marriott, Nassau Beach
Hotel,  and  anywhere on the island that someone looks like they might
be waiting for a bus. The ride was not as short as I expected.

Todd  was  not  excited about this outing, as he does not like tourist
things  where  everyone wants to compete for your money and where they
assume  someone  will  get  it. I wanted to ride a surrey (horse-drawn
carriage).  There  is  a  line  of  them set up. I had read in someone
else's  trip  report that a ride costs $10 for two. The drivers wanted
$20  and  would  settle  for  $15 for two. The drivers fought over us.
They  even  fought  over who showed us to the bathrooms. The bathrooms
were  disgusting but available. We got in a surrey. Someone offered to
take  our picture and then wanted a tip. We gave the guy $1. Our guide
started  us  out  OK,  but  within  two  blocks, the tire came off the
wheel.  He  kept  going.  Eventually,  another  one came off. Todd was
getting  very  worried, but the ride went OK, and this was an easy way
to  see  some  of  the  historical buildings. The ride lasted about 30
minutes.

Next,  we  searched  for the ferry, expecting something like the ferry
we  had  encountered  in  Hong  Kong harbor. It turns out the ferry is
almost  a  racket,  and I don't recommend it. We arrived at 11:58 with
no  boat in sight. We were told they run every 30 minutes. This is not
true.  We  waited  until 12:20 for the boat. We assumed it would leave
at  12:30.  The  boat did not leave until every seat was full. The guy
we  thought  was  the  driver  was just a hawker. He goes along by the
cruise  ships  telling people the boat is leaving for Paradise Island.
He  collects  $2  from people. We finally left at 1:15. On the return,
we  took  a  cab for $4 each back to where the surreys are in order to
catch  the  bus.  Many  people  were so disgusted that they took a cab
back  to  their  resort. This is a consistent practice, as we heard it
later from several other people.

Atlantis  --  The property is very, very large. It is growing, and the
building  on  the  web site is not finished. The hotel is a short walk
uphill  from  the ferry. We followed others. Of course, going anywhere
requires  a  walk through the casino. We went out the back and visited
the  tanks  with  a  shark,  stingrays,  jewfish, and many other large
tropical  fish.  There  were  encased in glass. There was also a large
pool  with  schools  of  stingrays.  This was open water. There were a
couple  of  pools with sea turtles and various waterfalls. There was a
lazy  river  running  through  the  property. There were falls to walk
through,  a  waterslide,  and  a wading pool/water playground. Many of
the  attractions  looked  similar  to Splashtown, the local water park
here  in  Spring,  Texas.  It was several steps down to the beach. The
pool  nearest  to  the beach offered a view, and there was a hula-hoop
contest  for  kids  going  on.  The  pool  was  literally wall to wall
chairs.  The  casino was larger than the Marriott. There were only two
roulette  tables  open. Everyone was losing at the one we were at, but
Todd  managed  to stay ahead for an hour or two, me an hour. I went to
the  bathroom and blew $10 on slots. When I came back, Todd had lost a
hundred  bucks in 5 minutes. I'd already lost $100. (If you are having
trouble  keeping  track  of it all, we came home $170 ahead from the 3
casino  visits).  They  didn't  keep tables open long unless they were
full.  That  meant there was no where to go if you were losing, except
to  quit. The roulette limit was also $5. We couldn't find a blackjack
table  under  $25.  Someone  else found one at night for $15. Todd put
down $25, lost and left.

We  took  a  cab that turned out to be a van full of people across the
bridge  to  Nassau.  We  bought  4 T-shirts for $10 (cheap shirts). We
looked  at  a  few stands of souvenirs. Everyone wants you to buy, but
they  tended  to ask once and accept a "no, thank you". They were much
less  pushy  than  Jamaica.  A souvenir someone offered me for $12 was
available  at  Sandals  for  $3.  I  bought  a small Bahamas bag for a
friend.  This  was a cruise ship racket. Carnival and Sovereign of the
Seas were in.

The  bus  took  much  less  time  going  back, as there were much less
stops.  We got back after 4 p.m. The trip I thought would take about 4
hours took well over 6.

Breakfast  --  8-11 a.m. Baccarat offers a la Carte breakfast. It is a
lovely  setting  and offers a good meal. It did take an hour, so don't
pick  this  if you are in a hurry. Food is served under silver covered
dishes.  The  waiter  has a good time raising the dishes to reveal the
food.

Spices  --  8-10:15  buffet.  Continental breakfast from 10:15-11. The
buffet  is  quite  extensive.  There is a line for omelets and eggs to
order.  Hard-  boiled  eggs  are  available on the buffet. There is an
area  where  waffles and crepes are prepared with a large selection of
toppings.  French toast (very good) and pancakes were available daily.
Food  is  quite  American  tasting, even the sausage. This is true for
most  restaurants  and  meals.  Potatoes, quiche, plantations, hot and
cold  cereal,  fruits  such  as watermelon, mango already cut from the
peeling,  grapes,  apples,  nectarines, peaches, dried apricots, nuts,
toast,  English  muffins,  eggs  benedict, sausage, and bacon were all
items  I  noticed.  On  two  days, there were fresh strawberries. Hard
boiled  eggs  were  always available. There were sometimes dishes such
as  hash. There was usually at least one presentation of smoked salmon
and another of cold cuts..

On  Tuesday,  Todd  and  I  arrived  at the buffet right at 10:15, not
realizing  the  time.  The  host  said  they closed right at 10:15 and
suggested  we  go to Baccarat for a full breakfast. We said we were in
a  hurry  and stayed at Spices for the continental breakfast. They had
pulled  the  hot  items except for one or two crepes and waffles. Todd
asked  someone  if  they  still had scrambled eggs left over. She said
that  they  probably  had  some  in  the  back. She told him to wait a
minute.  In  a  few  minutes,  she came back with freshly cooked eggs.
Juice  was  presented  in  a  unique  container  that  had layers with
spouts.  They  offered  orange,  cranberry, and apple. If you left for
your  food before the wait staff came by, they usually placed a pot of
coffee  on  the  table.  If  you  wanted  tea, it was best to wait for
someone  to  come.  When presented, a box was offered for selection of
tea,  and  a  pot of water was placed on the table after the first cup
was served.

Lunch  --  Royal  Grill  offers  a la carte dining from a menu from 12
p.m.  to  2  p.m.  according  to the information in the room. They are
open  from  about  11  to  5. The salad bar, soup, and dessert bar are
available  from  12:30  to  3  (in other words, the information in the
room is wrong). The menu is available from 11 to 5.

Sunday,  we  ate  there.  In  addition  to the menu, there is soup and
salad  bar.  There is also a dessert bar. This restaurant is a lighter
meal  than the buffet, possibly. Todd had a fish sandwich (not like at
home)  with  fries.  I had the deep fried conch. It was salty (I don't
eat  salt).  I  ate  one piece and some fries. The serving was huge. I
ate  corn  chowder and a small salad. Monday, Todd wanted to eat there
after  golf,  as he missed breakfast. I wanted to go to the buffet, so
we  did  both.  I  had  a  slice of self-serve pizza. Todd had a bacon
cheeseburger  and  ordered  Texas  bacon  cheese fries (horrible meal,
health-wise,  but  he was on vacation). He asked them to leave off the
jalapenos.  They  didn't  leave  them  off.  The fries weren't like in
Texas  either.  His  burger  was  like  American food, rather than the
"interesting"  Jamaican  burger experience. Tuesday we ate there after
our  trip  to  town.  We  both  had  hamburgers  with  bacon (Todd had
cheese).  We served ourselves Diet Pepsi from the machine, and I had a
small  cone. On Saturday, we went there before our departure after the
buffet.  I  ate  a big meal at the buffet and only a small cone at the
Royal Grill. Todd had a bacon cheeseburger and fries.

Bar  service  is  offered  here.  Some  of  the  items offered at this
restaurant:  fried  grouper  sandwich,  deep-fried  conch,  hamburger,
cheeseburger,  hot dog, cheese dog, blt. Bar service is offered from a
waitress.  There  are  also soda machines, a cappuccino machine, self-
serve ice cream, and self-serve pizza.

Spices  --  12:30-2 p.m. -- This is the best lunch buffet I've seen at
a  Sandals.  Every  day, there was a station for pasta to order -- you
pick  the  pasta,  the sauce and the toppings. There were 2-3 kinds of
pizza  from  the  brick  oven  every day. There was display cooking of
ribs,  deep  fried  chicken,  and  swordfish.  The hot buffet included
items  such  as  scalloped  potatoes, cauliflower with cheese, seafood
stuffed  pasta  shells, baked seafood in shells (like the appetizer at
Crystal   room   only   instead  of  just  scallops,  there  was  also
langostinos  and  baby  shrimp  in  it.  There  were  various types of
sandwiches.  The  large salad bar offered various dressings, including
a  spa dressing that was very good. There was a carving station. There
were  many  cold  cuts and lots of salads that I term "other" and many
fruits.  Normally,  dessert  never  tempts  me.  This  was the largest
dessert buffet at the resort.

There  were  a  couple  of puff pastry and fruit combos that caught my
eye  and  were  very  good. What I saw was a cut above any resort I've
visited.  Seating  is  available inside or outside. This resort offers
bar  service.  The  white  wine was French. Some of the people outside
had  asked  for  a  bottle  of  wine. Wednesday -- some of the entrees
served  included  salmon  baked in puff pastry, grilled steak, grilled
chicken,  grilled  pork  chop,  fried chicken, and stir-fried seafood.
There  were  others.  Again,  pasta to order, several choices of pizza
from  the brick oven, an array of salads, soup, vegetables, cold cuts,
and  desserts  were  served.  Wine  was Italian Soave. Later days, the
wine  was  whatever  they  brought  and sometimes none. Thursday -- we
caught  the  buffet  for 15 minutes hurriedly before snorkeling. Items
of  interest  were  grilled  seafood kabobs (several types of fish and
shrimp),   scallops,   a   spaghetti  pasta  salad,  and  carved  beef
tenderloin.  Todd  had  beef  lasagna  only.  Friday  -- they had pita
sandwiches,  fried  fish,  teriyaki  chicken, and a carved pork that I
thought  was beef before I took it, and many other items. I spent most
of  my  time chatting to some people I had met that were getting ready
to  leave,  and didn't notice my food much. I was still very full from
the previous night.

They  were  way  into  desserts  and  sampled  most of it. I did pasta
salad.  Saturday  --  there  was  a  tremendous  amount of seafood and
assorted  items,  perhaps some left over from the International buffet
the  night before. The scallop appetizer (coquilles St. Jacques), huge
crayfish  claws and legs, crab claws, garlic shrimp, scallops, seafood
kebabs,  several types of grilled fish, cheese tortellini (wonderful),
more  pasta  than usual, pita bread, beef tortilla (similar to fajitas
al  carbon  here in Texas), deep fried chicken tenders, to name a few.
There  was  a  good  soup,  also.  Todd  very  much  enjoyed  the beef
tortilla.  I  did,  also, and we both enjoyed the chicken tenders. All
of the seafood everyday was a real treat, too.

Snacks  --  Everyday  except  Monday, hot snacks are available outside
the  Manor  Bar from 5:30-6:30. There is a good variety. Items such as
brick  oven pizza, pigs in the blanket, chicken wings, conch fritters,
quiche,  mussels with marinara, and cheese, and fried fish are served.
On  Monday  night,  the Manager's Cocktail Party serves similar items,
in  addition, smoked salmon, cold cuts, pretzels, boiled shrimp, and a
variety of finger sandwiches. This is held near the beach.

Afternoon  Tea  --  served from 4-5 p.m. in the gazebo across from the
side  patio  of  Spices.  Dainty  pastries  and  finger sandwiches are
served,  along  with  tea. It is easy to walk by and pick up something
on  the  way  to  somewhere  else.  I  did not see this on Thursday or
Friday and wasn't sure why not.

Dinner

Crystal   Room   serves   6:30-9:30-Saturday   --  -Scallop  appetizer
(Coquilles  St.  Jacques),  lobster  bisque  with  baby shrimp, Caesar
(Todd)  or  market  greens  salad  (me), Todd smoked prime rib. Me spa
fare  of  mussels,  baby  shrimp,  and  other  (I don't eat octopus or
squid).  We  were too close to the smoking section, but at least there
was  a  seating  preference.  No  wine preference- she named a few and
offered  a  bottle. Wednesday -- wine offered was sweet or dry-never a
menu  at  this place. That was very surprising. This time we requested
"way  non-smoking". Todd had the same meal as Saturday. I had the same
thing,   except  I  ordered  the  lamb  chops.  They  were  absolutely
wonderful.   Three   were  presented  with  a  lovely  rice  side  and
vegetables. I could only hold two of them.

Spices  --  serves  6:30 to 9:30 -- we arrived at about 9:15 on Sunday
night  after  the casino excursion. There were a few couples there. We
weren't  very  hungry  (what  does  that  have  to do with anything on
vacation?).  This  is one that I forgot to document right away for the
purpose  of  this report. We only had a couple of courses. I had salad
and  a chicken entr‚e that I didn't like. Todd had snapper with cheese
and  some  other  stuff on top. Water to drink. We ate outside. Spices
is  the  main  dining room and the location of the lunch and breakfast
buffets.  They  have  an  open show cooking area. Most of the items on
the  menu  are  fish  or  chicken.  I  believe they offer a lamb dish.
Several  people  really  liked  this  place,  but  it  was  our  least
favorite,  at  least  for  dinner. Baccarat -- 6-10 p.m., reservations
required.  Book  this  early or you will only get in during your visit
if  you  are willing to eat at 9 or 9:30. I booked on Sunday and could
only  get  in  early  on  Friday,  our  last night. This was available
because  we  ate during the International Buffet. I strongly recommend
that  you not miss the International Buffet. Appetizers - - 3 choices.
Todd  had the penne pasta. I had the mussels (3 of them). Soup -- Todd
had  the  sweet  potato soup. I had the rockfish soup. Mine was better
but  the  temperature wasn't hot enough. They mixed up our courses and
served  us  our  salad  first.  It  was  Caesar.  They  came  over and
apologized  when they figured out what they had done. The entrees were
served  under  silver  domes.  Both  were lifted together. I had veal.
Todd  had smoked beef tenderloin. We were wondering why so much of the
meat  was  smoked  everywhere.  The veal was shank and mostly bone and
fat.  It was served on top of thick rice with mushrooms. I am allergic
to  mushrooms,  so  I  avoided that. The meat had a good flavor, but I
wish  I had ordered something else. Todd had the cheesecake with white
chocolate  and  a  berry  sauce  for dessert. I had hot tea. Water was
served  from  a silver pot. I recommend going to Baccarat at 8 p.m. or
so  in  order  to  get the best atmosphere. The pool will be lit up by
that  time.  When  we were there, the restaurant did not open on time.
It was not full, due to the buffet.

Royal  Grill  --  There is a regular menu and various features such as
grilled  T-bone or fillet and cheese ravioli or another pasta special.
Service  is  offered  from  7 to 10 p.m. Tuesday -- nachos with cheese
sauce  and salsa and a mix of jalapeno bread and fresh-baked bread are
offered,  whether  you ask for it or not. Caesar salad mixed while you
wait,  or salad bar was available. A soup was available and very good.
The  entrees  were served with corn on the cob and a choice of potato.
We  ordered  the  potato  skins,  not realizing the toppings. We would
have  ordered  them  without sour cream, had we known. I ate the edges
around  the  sour  cream,  and  the  skins  were some of the best I've
tasted.  Todd didn't touch it. We also didn't touch the corn. We ate a
few  of  the  vegetables,  but  they weren't crispy. The fillets had a
good  flavor  but  had  a lot of fat and gristle. This was touted as a
Tex-Mex  restaurant, but the food was not like here in Houston. We did
have enough to enjoy our meal, though.

Cricketers  opens  at  7 p.m. Pub food is offered. This includes items
such  as  pizza,  chicken wings, chef salad, club sandwiches, fish and
chips,  etc. Some people just sit around at this place. We were always
too full to give the food a try.

Cafe  Goombay  -- on the offshore island. Reservations required. Boats
at  6:15 and 8:15. Most items on the menu have conch in them. After my
conch  meal  at  Royal  Cafe grill, I wasn't too anxious to go to Cafe
Goombay.

Beach  Party Night Buffet -- (Monday beginning at 6:30 p.m.) There was
pasta  cooked to order (although it took them a while to set up), some
salads  in  a  sailboat,  a  huge  antipasto  bar,  including mussels,
pastrami,  olives, cheeses, etc. There was grilled beef (strange), bbq
ribs  and chicken -- all with BBQ sauce dumped on before you could say
"no  sauce",  fish,  salad,  fried  conch.  We aren't buffet people or
beach  party  people.  Every one showed up at one time. We got a table
near  the  front  (ours  had  no  cloth). It was difficult to keep the
table  level  in the thick sand. We enjoyed watching the beautiful ice
sculptures  and  how  they changed throughout the evening. Bar service
was  there  but spotty, and some guests went into the bar to get their
own. We found ourselves anxious for water.

The  entertainment  was  supposed to start at 7:30. It was much closer
to  8.  Everyone  was finished eating by then. The show started with a
Junkanoo  costumed  band.  Next,  the  Sandals  VIP  band  played  for
dancing.  At  8:30,  a  local  brother  singing  act (supposedly #1 in
Bahamas)  rallied  men and women into singing contests. There was also
a  dance  contest.  Todd  left  during this time -- he was very tired.
Eventually,  a  limbo  guy  came on and got down to 8 inches with fire
below  that.  About  100 people were rallied around for photos. At 10,
the  junkanoo group comes back to take people to the royal theater for
disco. As other nights, the piano sing a long was at 10.

Returnee  Dinner  --  Thursday  was  beginning  at  6:30. If you are a
returnee,  call  public relations or guest relations or go to the desk
where  dinner reservations are made. They can RSVP you. You should get
a  letter  inviting  you  some  time in the week. The afternoon of the
event,  we  received  T-shirts  and  two single-serve-sized bottles of
local liqueur.

The  evening  started  with cocktails and appetizers at the Cricketers
Pub.  Unfortunately,  the  air  conditioning picked this night to have
some  sort  of  problem.  There  was  a book for guests to sign in and
regular  and  pink  champagne. Other cocktails and nonalcoholic drinks
were  available  for the asking. There were baskets of pretzels, nuts,
and  garlic  shrimp  about.  Appetizers  were  similar to those at the
Manor  Bar  happy  hour. There were also vegetables and dip, scallops,
and  smoked  salmon.  Most  people  took everything outside the bar or
went  over  to  the  Crystal Room bar to get less heat. They called us
back in for introductions.

At  about  7:30,  we  went  into  the  Crystal Room for dinner. We had
Steven  Ziadie,  the  general manager, at our table. We stirred him up
with  ways to improve the place, how we didn't get upgraded, about the
two  couples  who  were  nearly obscene in Frederick's style garb over
Memorial   weekend,   and  listened  to  his  talk  about  the  future
enhancements  of  Sandals  Royal  Bahamian  and other resorts. He is a
wonderful  gentleman  who  does  an  outstanding  job. He was slightly
offended  that  only  two  of  us,  in  addition  to  him, ordered the
returnee  menu.  Others  requested  the  regular  menu. Returnee menu:
appetizer  was  a  seafood cocktail -- a mixture in sauce on top of an
avocado.  Soup was a mushroom cream with a puff pastry shell backed on
top.  I ate the shell only, as I am allergic to mushrooms. A salad was
not  on the menu, but I ordered a salad and received Caesar. The entre
was  a  lamb chop, two shrimp, and port -- I substituted the prime rib
for  the  pork.  I  could  not  eat  it  all. The desert was ice cream
wrapped  in  a  white  chocolate shell with fruit sauce. Wine, coffee,
and tea were served. Wine was served from carafes.

At  the  end  of  the  meal,  Steven  invited  us  outside  for  group
photographs.  These  were  available  a  day  or  two  later  at guest
relations,   complimentary.   Women  were  given  long-stemmed  roses.
International  Buffet  -- Friday night. This is truly a chef showcase.
Tables  are  set  up  outside of Spices. Candlelight tables are set in
front  of  the  bandstand. The show was an alternation between the VIP
band  and  disco  tunes  for  dancing.  Even  guests who were finished
eating wriggled in their seats to the music.

Dining  choices  were  too many to name them all, and the presentation
was  excellent.  Some  choices:  ribs, pasta, various Oriental dishes,
jerk  meat,  quite a few seafood dishes, grilled meats, sushi, shrimp,
the  largest  jambalaya pot I've ever seen, just about every dish we'd
seen  all  week,  many  salads,  cold  shellfish,  desserts, including
chocolate  covered  strawberries,  and  a  huge array of things I know
I've  missed.  We  are not buffet people, but this is one truly not to
be missed.

Watersports

Kayaks,  paddle  boats,  aqua  trikes,  hobie  cats,  windsurfing, and
sunfish  were  available.  Scuba  was  a
offered  twice  a  day. The trips were at 10 a.m. and 1 p.m. The trips
were  longer  than in Jamaica, 90 minutes. The water time was about an
hour.  Thursday  -- We went on the 1 p.m. boat. We were told to arrive
at 12:45 to get equipment. The boat was full.

We  saw  many fish, lots like in Jamaica but many fish which were much
larger,  such  as parrot fish and grouper. The water was crystal clear
but  a  bit cold. We saw the biggest coral formation I have seen in my
life,  but that was after we ran out of film in our underwater camera.
Both  trips, we had to sign up a day in advance to get in. Saturday --
We  went  off East of the Sandals offshore island on the 9:30 trip. We
saw  a  lot  of  fish  and many colors of coral-purple, yellow, green,
brown,  orange.  We  saw  a  dolphin fish. I know on Thursday morning,
they  saw  a  nurse  shark  and that 3 couples pet it. They also saw a
moray  eel.  On Saturday, we saw so many fish, and we followed some of
them,  swimming along. That trip was full, too. We were pleased at how
long  they  let us stay out. Sign up early for snorkeling, in case the
weather  gets  bad, as snorkeling is just fantastic at Cable Beach. It
was worth every goosebump.

Activities

A  very  nice  booklet  outlining the week's activities is provided in
the  room.  In  addition, a board of what is offered is posted outside
of  Spices.  A  paper  list  is provided outside of the spa downstairs
from  the Manor Bar terrace. Everything is subject to change, but they
pretty  much  stuck  to the schedule when we were there. We did not do
much  while we were there. We attended a bingo for points (only us and
the  playmaker),  a  cash  bingo  for  prizes ($3 a card or 2 for 5 --
proceeds  to  charity,  I  won a little waterproof wallet), black jack
night (mucho fun), and music and entertainment.

Some  of  what's  offered: orientation everyday at 10 and 5. Some sort
of  aerobics  was  offered every morning at 8:30 with Micelangelo. The
classes  varied  from  circuit training, toning, aerobics, power walk,
step,  to  low  impact.  Toning  involved  either  resistance bands or
weight  machines  on  the  circuit after an aerobic workout with bike,
treadmill,  and/or  Stairmaster.  Water aerobics were offered everyday
except Saturday in the main pool at 2:30.

Sunday  -- beach volleyball, bocce ball, table tennis tournament, pool
volleyball,  pool  tournament,  water  balloon  toss,  aerobics, water
aerobics, mixology, and pool volleyball.

Monday  --  tennis  with pro, pool volleyball, bingo for points, table
tennis  tournament,  beach volleyball, treasure hunt, obstacle course,
pool  volleyball, Caribbean dance class, drinking competition, shuffle
board tournament, water aerobics, aerobics, water balloon toss.

Tuesday  --  group  tennis  lessons,  aerobics,  funny  bowling, beach
volleyball,  mix  your drinks, tennis pro test, pool basketball, table
tennis  tournament,  water  balloon toss, honeymoon games, beach dice,
horseshoe,  tan/t- shirt/belly contests, darts, pool volleyball, golf,
bocce ball, swimming contest, pool tournament, horseshoes.

Wednesday  --  group tennis lessons, aerobics, beach volleyball, beach
olympics,  pictionary,  horseshoe,  pool  basketball,  scavenger hunt,
water  races,  table  tennis tournament, pool volleyball, Mr. And Mrs.
Royal Bahamian, reggae dance class, drink relay, beach volleyball.

Thursday  -- group tennis, beach volleyball, water balloon toss, quiz-
a-thon,   pictionary,  pool  basketball,  golf,  darts,  pool  soccer,
shuffle board tournament, crazy relay, pool volleyball.

Friday  --  tennis  with  pro,  aerobics, beach volleyball, crazy pool
games,  quiz-a-thon, bocce ball, pool volleyball, big games, mixology,
staff vs guests volleyball.

Saturday   --   tennis   with  pro,  table  tennis  tournament,  beach
volleyball,  horseshoe  tournament, water regatta, putting tournament,
pool volleyball, drinking game, big splash, tennis tournament.

Entertainment

Saturday  --  talent  show.  They had an Irish guy telling jokes and 3
playmaker  skits.  They  had  a  professional  singer with a beautiful
voice  and  an  impersonator.  He  did  Elvis  and Tina Turner. He was
funny.  The  singer's name was Keeshla. The show started at 10 and was
eventually standing room only.

Sunday  --  Karaoke  and  piano sing along, then disco music. All day,
jukebox  tunes. The guys that worked there played Whitney Houston over
and over.

Monday  --  beach  party  night.  Dinner  is at 6:30. The band doesn't
begin  until  7:30.  The  junkanoo-costumed  band came through shortly
after.  At  8, the VIPs the resident band played for dancing. At 8:30,
a  local  brother  singing  act (supposedly #1 in Bahamas) rallied men
and  women  into singing contests. Eventually, a limbo guy came on and
got  down  to  8  inches  with  fire below that. About 100 people were
rallied  around  for  photos.  At 10, the Junkanoo group comes back to
take  people  to  the  royal  theater  for disco. As other nights, the
piano sing a long was at 10.

Tuesday  --  black jack tournament, VIP band, and sing-a-long in piano
bar.  The  black  jack tournament had a set up of 4 tables with 7 or 8
people  at  each.  It started at 8:30. The cost was free, and everyone
got  points.  The  winners  got Sandals necklaces. Everyone had a good
time  and  kept  some  money  until the last hand when everyone bet it
all.  We  met  another  couple  from Houston. They live about 50 miles
from  us.  We  talked about the lack of TexMexyness of the Royal Grill
(a.k.a. OK Coral).

Wednesday  --  honeymoon  hour (like Newlywed game) and cabaret-skits,
same  singer  Keeshla,  Little  Richard  impression.  Show  started 20
minutes late. Band played before and after the cabaret show.

Thursday  --  karoake  and resident band. Normally, there is a cabaret
show,  but  the  island  is  having an entertainment lull of about one
month, we were told.

Friday  --  VIP  band  played at the International buffet, disco music
followed  for  dancing (very popular), and a movie (Air Force One) was
shown at the bar near the beach.

Theme Activities

Not  so  emphasized  here.  On  beach party night, one returnee couple
(saw  them  in St. Lucia T-shirts) said they decided to make their own
pirate night because they had costumes.

Other Activities

Lots  of  activities  held  daily  and  activity  board near main pool
showed  the  day's  schedule.  For  watersports  schedule,  check  the
watersports  hut.  There  were pool games, basketball, pitch and putt,
shuffleboard,   tennis  tournaments,  volleyball,  and  various  other
unique  games  invented by the playmakers. We were given a schedule of
the  week's  activities  when checking in. It had "summer" on it. Some
of  the  activities  included ping pong tournament, miniature cricket,
dance  lessons  daily  and  nightly,  too,  domino  tournament,  speak
Jamaican,  team  drinking  game  (called  mixology), charity bingo and
casino,   Jamaican  trivia,  horseshoe  tournament,  costume  parades,
fashion  show, dress up competition, lover's knot, Newlywed game, beer
drinking,  water  aerobics, darts tournaments, bocce ball, backgammon,
and  jeopardy. Points were given for most things and were in the range
of 5-15 per activity. Sixty points earned a leather sandal necklace.

Games

There  was  shuffleboard,  croquet,  table  tennis,  pool, backgammon,
checkers,  slot  machines  (didn't  win anything on my $20), and board
games.

Books and Board Games

Both are available for loan from the playmakers.

Points

Points  are  awarded  for  activities  such  as  volleyball, aerobics,
aquacize,  contests  and  games,  tennis,  basketball,  talent  night,
Olympics.  I did not get any points for playing bingo and should have.
You  can go to the playmakers and find out how many points you have at
any  time. Other Sandals we have visited required 60 points for a pair
of  Sandals  (although  it  was  50 when we started going to Sandals).
This  resort  required  120 points. We had 140 at checkout and got one
pair. Go to the entertainment office to check on this.

Photos

A  photographer  takes  your  picture all over the property at various
times.  The  pictures  are available the next day for $10. No pressure
to buy. You don't even have to go look at them.

Gift Shop

Royal Tings.

Beauty Salon

There  is  a  full  service  beauty  salon inside of the spa. Services
offered  include  a  wide array of waxing, manicures and pedicures and
hair treatments.

Spa

The  spa setup is quite nice. The spa is open from 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. In
addition  to  a  wide  variety  of  services  at  a  charge, there are
separate  men's  and  women's  steam  rooms,  saunas, and jet showers.
There  are bathrooms, changing rooms, lockers, and a few toiletries in
the  spa.  There  are  packages available on the web site (call Unique
Vacations  at  1-800-Sandals  or  your  travel agent). These are a bit
different  from  those  offered  once  you get to the resort, but I am
sure  both  are  honored. All tolled, I had 5 treatments at the spa. I
believe  I  shook  up Steven, the GM, when I indicated that the spa at
Dunns  River  is  better. He was surprised that I had already been. My
feeling  is  that  Dunns  is  lower cost and offers more variety. They
have  combo  treatments  that  combine  scrub  and wrap or massage and
facial,  or  sometimes  even  3 treatments. Also, Elaine and her staff
are willing to customize anything for you.

I  booked  a Royal Choice package. This gave me 4 hour-long treatments
for  $264,  rather  than  $300.  Most spas cost about $1 per minute or
slightly  less. The Royal Bahamian is a bit more, but prices include a
10%  gratuity.  The  $264  cost  of  the package brings prices to $1 a
minute,  before  the  gratuity.  Once you book the package, you do not
have  to  select  the treatments right away. I chose to book the first
treatment  and  then  booked  the  others  a  couple  of  days  later.
Generally,  you  can  get  in  the same day for treatments, but book a
couple  of  days in advance if you want to be assured of what you want
when  you  want.  In  addition  to my package, I booked a hydrotherapy
bath and was given a deal (I believe 20% off) on that.

My  schedule: I tried to book most of my treatments when Todd would be
at  golf.  Otherwise,  they  were  mostly when he slept in. After most
treatments,  I  visited the steam room and sauna. Sometimes, I visited
the  jet  showers. The steam room really opened up my sinuses. In a 10
to  15 minute sit, I eventually got to where I could barely see myself
through the fog.

My  first  treatment was the sampler massage. This combines techniques
of  Swedish  massage,  Shiatsu, and the sports massage. Mostly, it was
Swedish  massage  with aromatherapy, but the therapist added pressure-
point  techniques  that  released  tension in my muscles. The pressure
was  a  bit  light  on  the  front but good on the back. The therapist
played  soothing  music  and  dimmed the light. Other massages offered
include Swedish, aromatherapy, reflexology, Shiatsu, and Sports.

Facial   --   -a  man  --  George,  did  this  facial.  I  booked  the
aromatherapy  facial.  This  treatment included pore cleansing, steam,
exfoliation,  oils,  facial  massage,  and  a  mask.  He  did a lot of
massage  on  my head and neck, and I was so relaxed that I had trouble
staying  awake.  Other  facials include European, refresher (shorter),
men's, moor mud, seaweed, glycolic, oxygenating, and sun lover's.

Hydrotherapy  bath  --  Dolly  assisted  with  this  treatment.  These
treatments  normally  are  priced  at  $35.  I  chose the seaweed bath
because  the algae powder is supposed to release toxins and revitalize
the  metabolism.  Dolly  was  late,  due to a backup from the previous
client.  The  tub  must  be  sterilized  between  treatments. Once she
prepared  the  bath,  she assisted me into the many-jet tub. I thought
it  was  too  cold.  She  spent  a bit of time getting the water to my
satisfaction  and  getting  a  seaweed  mix  in  the  water. Just as I
thought  I  was  finally warm enough, Dolly came in and placed an ice-
cold  washcloth  on  my forehead and gave me water. Other bath choices
include mineral salt, moor mud, and aromatherapy.

Seaweed  Wrap  --  I  chose this wrap due to the supposed benefits for
increased  circulation  and  benefits  to  reduce  cellulite and water
retention.  The main benefit is detoxification. I was rubbed down with
the  seaweed mixture and wrapped in cellophane, a blanket, and sheets.
The  therapist  turned down the lights and left me wrapped for quite a
while.  After  the  treatment,  she  put me in the jet shower and then
handed  me  lotion. Other wraps offered include aromatherapy wrap, mud
masque, body polish, and salt glo.

Sports  Massage -- This was my favorite treatment. I had this done the
day  before  we  went home, and by that time, I was very sore from the
various  weight-lifting  sessions  I  had  performed.  I  was a little
surprised  that  I  was  getting a massage from a man. He did a fairly
good  job  of  not  exposing  me, but I was a little bit apprehensive,
anyway.  The  treatment  involved strokes of direct pressure, friction
techniques  applied  to  tight muscles, and heavy pressure traditional
strokes  to  get ride of tightness and toxins. He did arms and legs on
the  front  and  a  full backside massage, including scalp and neck. I
was very relaxed.

In  addition  to  the  treatments,  the  spa offered personal training
sessions  at  a  cost.  There  was  plenty  to gain from attending the
aerobic  sessions.  Classes  met in the spa at 8:30 a.m. At that time,
participants  headed  to  whatever  location  was  appropriate for the
class  of  the  day.  We  did  exercise in the gym and on the pool and
beach patios.

There are aquacize classes on most days of the week.

There  are couples treatments (massage and wrap) where couples can get
treatments side by side.

Piano Bar

The pianist plays beginning at 10 p.m. Many people sang along.

Other Guests

Guest  to  staff  ratio  was 1.8 to 1. It wasn't 1 to 1, but it seemed
just  fine.  We  found that the crowd changed every couple of days. On
Memorial   weekend,   there   was   quite   a   mix,   including  some
"professional"  types  who  caused a scene in nearly obscene gowns and
swimsuits.  The  two  couples were asked to tone down their activities
after  the night watchman caught them in some undisclosed act that got
recorded  in  his  log  book.  The  guests  were on the verge of being
tossed  out,  as  nudity is illegal in the Bahamas, and carrying on is
not what Sandals is looking for in guests.

Beyond  these folks, the mix was anywhere from 20 to 70 for the entire
stay.  Over Memorial weekend, there seemed to be largely a 20s and 30s
crowd.  On  Tuesday  and  Wednesday,  there  were many folks above 50.
After  that,  it  was  largely a 30s and 40s crowd. We are in our mid-
30s and felt quite at home the entire stay.

Dress  during  the day was casual. At night, there was a mix of dress.
Long  dresses  were  quite  popular at night. Other female guests wore
cocktail  dresses,  casual  dresses,  and slacks. Men wore Dockers and
golf  shirts  for  the  most  part. At some restaurants (such as Royal
Grill),  they  wore  dress shorts (no T-Shirts). At Bacarrat, a lot of
men  wore  jackets.  Some  wore  ties. Some just wore pants and a golf
shirt. No shorts allowed there. Crystal Room was similar.

Departure and Return Home

When  checking  out,  you can request American Airlines frequent flyer
points.  Check  out time at SRB is 11 a.m. We were allowed to keep our
room  until  1 p.m. That really helped. We had a 3:30 bus for our 5:20
flight.  We got lockers at the spa to keep our valuables and to assist
with  changing  from swimsuits. After waiting in line for American, we
learned  that  our  flight  was canceled due to mechanical failure. We
were  placed  on a Bahamasair flight leaving 10 minutes later than our
scheduled  flight.  Since  we  had  only 40 minutes connection time to
begin  with,  we were worried. We found that the setup in Bahamas is a
bit  different  from  Jamaica or Mexico. We paid our $30 departure tax
($15  each,  payable  in USD or Bahamian dollars, these two are equal)
and  were  asked  to  take  our  own bags to the customs line. We only
bought  $60  worth  of  stuff.  I had stuck two nectarines in my purse
thinking  we'd  have  2  hours  at  the  airport.  Due  to  all of the
rigmarole,  we  had  no  time  to  spare.  The  agent  took it out and
commented  that  they  don't  allow  fruit. I indicated the situation,
expecting  her  to  throw  it out. She plunked it back in my purse and
waved us on. That was it.

Bahamasair  wasn't  full,  and  we  had the 3 seats for the two of us.
They  gave  a  choice of grape or orange juice in a 4 oz. Size for the
service.

We  had a huge hike around the airport in Miami. We got to our gate in
the  E  wing just in time. They had given our seats away but got us on
anyway  at  the  last  minute. The flight was a pain. We got sodas and
pretzels,  plenty,  as  we  were way full from our other eating of the
week.  We  got  to Houston on time at about 8:40 p.m. Central time. We
were  so  thrilled  to  find that our luggage made the plane -- we had
some  doubts,  as  we  barely  made  it.  We  arrived  home at 10 p.m.
exhausted from our full week.

Comments

Sandals  Royal  Bahamian  is a very lovely resort. The resort remained
quite  full  during  our  stay.  However,  with just a few exceptions,
guests  were quite tame and into relaxing or doing a few activities if
the  mood  struck. There are plenty of romantic spots on the property.
However,  I  never  saw a swing that wasn't in use. Because the resort
is  so  full, there is very seldom the frustration of searching for an
activity  only  to  find that the activity coordinator didn't show up.
There   were   a  couple  of  activities  held  somewhere  other  than
scheduled.  For  instance,  Todd missed a ping pong tournament because
he could not find it in time.

The  staff  is very well trained. We were told to enjoy our day or the
rest  of  our  day  many times. If someone didn't have what we wanted,
they  usually  tried  to  get  it  for  us,  rather  than  send us off
somewhere  else  or send us away disappointed. There were some patches
of  things  that  needed  improving.  For  instance,  the housekeeping
service  came anytime between 10 a.m. and 5 p.m. On more than one day,
they  made  the  bed  at nearly 5 p.m. and turned it down before 7:30.
The   general   manager  seemed  genuinely  interested  in  ideas  for
improvement.  Also,  guests can fill out a survey and drop it in a box
in  the reservations office. Breakfast and lunch buffets at Spices are
a  cut  above  most  places.  The  a  la  carte  breakfast  offers the
opportunity  for  a  healthy  meal  or  a  heartier  breakfast without
waiting  in  line  for  eggs  to  order.  Many of the golfers (like my
husband)  like  to  leave  for  tee times as early as 7:04 to beat the
crowds.  Since  the  resort  is  competing  in  the golf market, there
should at least be continental breakfast available by 6:30.

The  weather  was  overcast quite a lot, and there were two days where
we  had  some  rain.  The  first day that it rained, it came twice. It
lasted  only  long  enough for everyone to grab their things and leave
the  pool area. The staff opened up the Manor Bar, which I thought was
nice  of  them.  That place usually opens at 5:30 p.m. It rained again
on  Friday morning but was not raining when Todd's shuttle was to come
for  golf. The Radisson Cable Beach Golf Club employees were nearing a
strike,  though,  so  he  had trouble getting in. We got out of bed at
6:25  for  him  to  make  his tee time. The shuttle never came, and he
missed  the  tee  time.  I blame this on the Radisson, however, as the
staff at Sandals called twice.

People  were  at the pool claiming their spot early in the morning. By
10  or  so,  there  was  difficulty  getting a seat, although all day,
there  were  plenty  of seats that only had a towel in them, and there
were  many  more  seats with a towel in them than there were people in
the pool and Jacuzzis.

Some  people  hung  out  on  the beach. The sand on the beach was very
thick  and somewhat hard to walk in. The showers on the beach needed a
spout  just  for  feet,  as  it  was  difficult  to rinse feet without
getting  at  least partially wet under the shower. Eventually, I found
myself using what I call the wall waterfalls for this purpose.

Photography  was available at the resort, and some pictures were taken
around  the  pool.  Complimentary  group  photos  were  taken  at  the
returnee  night.  It  was  nice to not have photographers chase us all
over  the  property for photos like at some of the resorts. Oceanfront
rooms  have the best view. Honeymoon suites do not offer a view of the
ocean.

According  to  the  GM, the resort is on schedule to open the new side
of  the resort (to add 205 rooms) by October 1. That side will offer a
bigger   pool   than   the  existing  one  and  Italian  and  Japanese
restaurants.  Apparently, they have an Italian chef, so this should be
a plus for the restaurant.

It  is  a  bit  inconvenient  to  make  meals  sometimes. Aerobics and
snorkeling  can  make  it  difficult  to  make  the  breakfast buffet.
Afternoon  snorkeling gives opportunity for only a quick 10-15 minutes
at  the lunch buffet. There is food available at least 19 hours of the
day, so this is not a real problem.

Towels  were  sometimes  hard  to  come  by.  We didn't understand the
policy  when we checked in, as there were no beach towels in our room.
We  had  to  sign  out  towels  on the beach. Sometimes, there were no
towels  to  exchange  for  fresh  ones. Although the exercise room was
lovely  and  modern,  sometimes  there were no towels available there,
either.

The  spa  staff  were  courteous and efficient with only a few snafus.
However,  there  were  a few times when I could not get the steam room
to  work  and  could not find anyone to help. Also, the hot Jacuzzi of
the  hot  and cold plunge pools had a floating thermometer in it which
read  "max  100  degrees". The first several days, the tub was 108-112
degrees.  After  that,  it  was 92 to 96. Most of the Jacuzzis were in
the  92  to 96 range all of the time, except for the one on the island
that  seemed  the  temperature  of  the  ocean.  For  a  spa resort, I
expected better.

I  feel  that this resort is well worth a look for those wanting golf,
gambling,  spa,  or  fine dining. We found it nice that we could get a
bottle  of  wine  or  champagne  at any bar anytime they were open and
take  it  to  our  room. The only things missing at Royal Bahamian are
laundry/dry cleaning included and 24 hour room service.

BAHAMAS CLUB MED COLUMBUS ISLE BY STEVEN GOODMAN

Trip May 1998.

This  was  my  fifth trip to Columbus Isle, so I guess I must like it.
In  a  few  words,  Club  Med  is  basically "summer camp for adults",
however,  Columbus  Isle is more "really nice summer camp", it is much
nicer than your normal Club Med.

Getting There:

Basically,  there  are  only  two  options,  the Club Med Charter from
Miami  (twice on Saturdays and Sundays) via American Eagle, or Bahamas
Air  from Miami or Nassau (a few times per week) and hope your luggage
arrives.

Or  you  could  charter  your own plane. The runway is VERY short, and
full  of  potholes!  There is an ongoing project to extend the runway,
but  I  have  watched  it  for over two years, and it doesn't look all
that close to being finished!

Normally,  the  flights from Miami to San Salvador aren't any problem,
on  American  Eagle  ATR-42s,  however,  this  trip  was  a  bit  more
exciting.  I  arrived  early  on Saturday in Miami, and was on standby
for  the  first flight (and booked on the second flight); however, the
flight  was  full,  so I had to wait, not a problem, as I had expected
to.  However,  as people were arriving for the second flight, Club Med
announced  that  the  first  flight  hadn't  been  able to land at San
Salvador  because  of  weather!  It  had  returned to Miami, was being
refueled,  and  would go back again. But that meant they didn't have a
plane for us!

After  an  hour  or  so, they found us a plane, but than they needed a
pilot.  After  not too long, we get a pilot, and off we go...for about
3  minutes...just  long  enough  to  take  off, turn around, and land.
Engine  problems, fun fun fun, we got fire engines and everything. The
fire engines at Miami Airport are "Dayglo Green".

American  Eagle  "stored" us in a satellite terminal while waiting for
another  plane. But the brought us munchies and drinks. Eventually got
to Columbus Isle 4 hours late.

The Island:

San  Salvador Island is an "out island" in the Bahamas. It is actually
quite  far  east, and is in someways more like an Atlantic Island than
a  Bahamian  Island.  It  is separated from the rest of the Bahamas by
deep water.

There  is only one other resort on the island (the Riding Rock Inn), a
few  tiny  villages  with  a  few  tiny shops, about a 1,000 residents
(maybe),  a couple of bars and a bunch of churches! There are a couple
of  Columbus  Memorials to see, an oil powered lighthouse, and lots of
great beaches!

The Village (Resort):

Columbus  Isle  is  a  "Club  Med Finest", and they put a lot of money
into  it.  The  common  areas  are  all very nice, with a reading area
(with  very  comfortable  couches),  a nice TV room, artwork (from all
over the world) everywhere, even in the bathrooms.

The  rooms  are much nicer than most Club Meds, good to moderate views
of  the  ocean,  big  bathrooms and closets, artwork in the rooms, TV,
phone, minifridge.

There  are  also small "garden view rooms with shared bath"; which are
small,  but  still  nice for Club Med. And CHEAP CHEAP CHEAP. Columbus
Isle  is  starting  to  become a secret singles hangout, because it is
such a good deal.

The  main restaurant is quite nice, with great food. And has tables of
various  sizes. Not just all tables for eight like most Club Meds. Has
the  "standard"  big  Club  Med buffet, with lots of choices for every
meal.  Each  dinner  has a "theme", but there are always many standard
items  available.  I  am  AMAZED  at how good the food at Club Med is,
considering how many people they feed.

There  are  two  annex restaurants, but I only ate at the Italian one.
It  was  good,  but  I am not a big fan of Italian food, so I normally
just eat at the main restaurant.

Late  lunch is at one of the annex restaurants, which is on the second
floor,  and  has  a  great  view  out over the ocean. I ate late lunch
there  almost  every  day. Not quite as many choices as the main lunch
restaurant.

The Guests:

The  village  holds  500  guests. There were about 350 the first week,
and  300  the second. This village is rarely full, only in July/August
(Europe  on  vacation)  and  the Christmas Holidays. One of the office
staff said one week in late January they only had 95 guests!

The  guests  were  about  half  Europeans  (mostly  French)  and  half
Americans  (mostly  Californians).  A  few  people from other European
countries,  and  a  few from other states, Canada, South America, etc.
But it was amazing the number of people from California.

In  general,  this  is  a  couples  village. But there were a moderate
number  of  single  people, probably 40-50, more than I have seen here
before.  They no longer have any "singles get togethers" or activities
here,  but  I  think they should. At least a "singles happy hour" once
or  twice  a  week. There were a few single people I didn't meet until
the last day I was there.

There  were  a  3  or 4 children, except for one they were all fine. I
heard  the  one  was  a real brat, but I never had any problems. There
are  more  children  when  the  village  is full. There are no special
facilities or activities for children.

Because  of  all  the  Europeans,  and the remote location, there is a
reasonable  amount  of  toplessness,  even  around the pool area. This
doesn't  cause  any  problems,  except for the occasional American who
isn't  used  to  it. There is a small amount of "clothing optional" on
the  farther  beach  areas;  and if you leave the resort and find your
own beach no one will care.

Of  my  five  trips,  this was the only one with reasonable amounts of
partying.  But  the  disco  still was pretty quiet many nights, but it
was rocking a few nights.

The Scuba Diving:

This  is  why  I go! Club Med has three very nice catamaran dive boats
(two  45',  one 55'). They can hold about 45 divers each, but they are
BIG  boats,  with  large  bow  areas  and  sundecks, so while they are
underway it isn't crowded even when they are full.

The  buddy  divers  use  the  outside racks, and the groups the inside
racks.  The  buddy  divers go in first (if they are ready), so you can
hit  the  water  before the groups, and never see them the whole dive.
Getting  back  onto  the boat can sometimes be a traffic jam, but just
hang out at 15' and wait, no big deal.

Almost  every dive site is a wall dive. The top of the wall is usually
about  40',  dropping  down to 200' or MORE MORE MORE. A few places it
just  goes  forever.  This  means  there  are normally three different
areas  at  each  site;  down over the edge of the wall, on the reef at
the  top  of the wall, or inside the reef in a usually sandy area. And
you  can  go  either  direct  along the wall. So you can dive the same
sight two or three times, and not have it feel the same.

The  walls  and the coral life are very good here. There is a moderate
amount  of  big  things to see, sharks, turtles, rays, moreys, lots of
big  grouper,  barracuda, etc. However, because San Salvador Island is
quite  far  out into the Atlantic, there aren't tons of schooling fish
like  some  places.  But  there are also lots of little things to see,
shrimps,  crabs,  etc.  In the winter, there are Hammerhead Sharks all
the  time. This trip in May I saw four, but in another week or so most
will be gone, out into the cold water.

The  water  temp was in the high 70s, and getting much warmer later in
my  stay.  In late summer it is in the mid 80s, even down at 100'. The
visibility  was about 120'? Some days only about 60', but most better.
The  weather was still being dominated by westerly winds, which is the
winter pattern, which made it wind and choppy a few days.

The  daily dive schedule is two boats in the morning (two tanks each),
and  one  boat in the afternoon (one tank). When they get crowded they
run more boats.

Other Sports:

The  main  sport  of  the village is scuba, followed by snorkeling and
laying  on  the  beach.  But  there are other sports, tennis, sailing,
kayaks,  windsurfing,  beach  volleyball.  There is waterskiing in the
summer (starts May 1) but it was too windy most days I was there.

But  the  wind  made  for pretty good sailing, nice Hobie 16s. But the
last  two days it was even too windy for sailing! Very unusual weather
for  May.  But  it  was still nice an warm, and only rained (a little)
once during the day.

The  beach  is  awesome,  and  great  water.  Altho  there  isn't much
snorkeling  right  at the village, twice a day they go by boat to good
snorkeling spots.

There was beach volleyball almost every afternoon.

I  went  to  aerobics  a  few  times,  and  wasn't  impressed with the
instructor.  But she was only filling in, as the new instructor hadn't
arrived yet. The weight room is OK, but not much.

Overall, and Random Thoughts:

Basically,  I like this Club Med a lot. It has nice facilities, pretty
grounds,  a  great beach, good scuba, etc. However, it is "Club Med on
Valium",  and  is  very  quiet and laid back, especially for Club Med.
Lots  of  couples  and scuba divers, but a reasonable number of single
people, who were actually partying this trip!

But  there  isn't  much  else  to do on the island, it is basically an
overgrown sandbar, with great beaches.

Comment  about  Club  Med  Management. Club Med has been losing money,
and  their  solution  to  this seems to have been to "dumb down"; i.e.
lowering  prices  and cutting service. Things that have been available
in  the past are gone or going? Examples: previously Columbus Isle had
bicycle  rides,  three times a day. They no longer have them, and they
haven't  been  replaced with anything else. (They claim it is seasonal
now,  but  I doubt it will be back). The early breakfast used to be at
the  annex  restaurant,  by  the  scuba area. It has been moved to the
main restaurant, presumably to save money, etc.

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