Caribbean Travel Roundup

Newsletter - Paul Graveline, Editor


Caribbean Travel Roundup
Paul Graveline, Editor
Edition 99
November 1, 1999

Last Update 30 October 1999 1600et

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PUERTO RICO BY JOESEPH R. TORRES

(A response to the comments of Elba Gonzalez in the October 1999 edition of the CTR)

I've  just  returned  from visiting Puerto Rico and I can't believe I 
visited  the  same  Island  that  Elba  Gonzalez  visited.  Maybe the 
difference  is that instead of having relatives there, I have visited 
the  island  over  35 times and have literally seen every square inch 
of  this too often maligned island. To visit Puerto Rico and not have 
anything  nice  to  say shows that you need a better guide and travel 
plan.  Next  time  I'd  love  to show Elba places that would blow her 
away.   Please   don't   compare  it  with  Jamaica,  Miami  and  the 
Bahamas....please!  

I've  found  that  people  in the island rarely know much about their 
island  as  professional  film  people and traveler's such as myself. 
For  example,  most Puerto Ricans when asked about the phosphorescent 
bay,  they  mention  La  Parguera. That's a joke compared to the true 
luminescence  of Mosquito Bay When asked about the prettiest beaches, 
they  will  tell  you  Luquillo and Boqueron. Again wrong, wrong. Not 
even  close.  The  overwhelming  majority  have never seen Red Beach, 
Blue  beach,  Navio, Sun Bay or Flamenco. San Juan has been gradually 
restored  over  decades  and  not  just  recently.  It's a continuous 
process.  Some  buildings are dilapidated until it's their turn to be 
restored.  To  only  mention  this  and  a  handful of beggars in the 
entire  old  city  is  a  disservice  to  this  little masterpiece of 
America.  Old  San  Juan  is a United Nations World Heritage site . A 
source of pride for all Americans.  

Elba,  how  many  beggars and homeless do you see in New York? Or are 
they  invisible  to  you.  Please,  be  fair  and  next  time do your 
homework.  Yes, the Dominican has cheaper  resorts because the people 
aren't  paid  a  living  wage.  Tell  me about beggars there in Santo 
Domingo.  No comparison to Puerto Rico. Did you try and rent a car to 
see  the  Dominican  Republic?  Try  and  do this in Jamaica...I dare 
anyone.  Yes,  there are not many posted signs in the hills. It's not 
supposed  to  be  for tourists, yet. You can't have it both ways. You 
detest  the modernity of San Juan with its K-Marts everywhere and yet 
you want all the signs or billboards in the mountains.  

You  need  to  travel  more, I've been doing it professionally for 35 
years.  To  learn  what  true  value  is,  you have to go everywhere. 
Arthur   Frommer,  of  the  world travel guides, and one of the three 
greatest  travel authorities in the world, recently named Puerto Rico 
as  his  favorite overall island in the world. I'm not alone. Do your 
research  and  I  hope  you  avoid  the  relatives next time. Want an 
itinerary, I'll be happy to share one with you.  

ST. LUCIA BY JOAN NELSON

Trip: May 1999

  My fiancee and I traveled to St. Lucia with 2 other couples and got 
married  on  the  island. We picked the island because it was a place 
we  hadn't  been  before and it looked so beautiful. Here is a report 
of our April trip:

Travel

We  flew  from Chicago O'Hare to St. Lucia with FunJet Vacations air-
only  option (charter American Trans Air). We left at 7am, stopped in 
Antigua  to  drop off/pick-up people and arrived at Hewonnora Airport 
around  2:45pm  (EST). The airfare was considerably lower ($377) than 
American  Airlines($700-$800).  We  also looked into Apple Vacations, 
but their air-only option was around $600.

Lodging

We  stayed  in  the  southern  part  of  the  island  just outside of 
Soufriere  at  Stonefield  Villas  (a  mile  or  so  from  the Hilton 
Jalousie). We booked it through Villas St. Lucia and stayed in the 3-
bedroom  Plantation  House  which comes with its own pool right under 
Petit   Piton  (gorgeous)!  Stonefield  is  a  locally  owned  resort 
consisting  of 10 villas (1 or 3-bedroom), a pool (in addition to our 
private  pool) and a bar/restaurant. A local beach is located about a 
half-mile  down  a  steep  hill  (not bad walking there but you get a 
work-out  walking  back). It's an okay beach but has strange access - 
we  walked  through the grounds of a "old folks" home to get from the 
road to the beach.

We  were almost the only guests there the entire week, so it was very 
quiet.  We  liked  our  villa,  which  is a roomy restored plantation 
house.  However, it is a typical Caribbean house (ie, not luxurious - 
no  screens or A/C) so we did see a few bugs, geckos, etc but nothing 
too  bad.  You  definitely  need to use the mosquito netting over the 
beds.  But  the  bugs  weren't  nearly  as  bad  as  they are here in 
Wisconsin in the summer. The cost was around $375/night.

We  were  married  at  our  villa  near  the pool. It was a beautiful 
setting  - under a mango tree with the Petit Piton in the background. 
Claudia  at  Stonefield  arranged  all the legal documents, ceremony, 
flowers,  photographer,  cake  and  champagne  toast.  A fun and very 
stress free event!

Meals/Restaurants

The  Plantation  House  also includes a cook and we arranged for them 
to  get  us  start-up groceries (25% stocking fee) and cook the first 
nights  meal  (chicken  and  rice  with  salad).  We got groceries in 
Soufriere  the  next  day  and  decided  to  get fish for dinner. The 
grocery  store  in  Soufriere  is  tiny,  and we went to the open air 
market  for  the  fish.  They  only  had one fish (tuna) at that time 
(which  they  comically wanted me to grab by the tail, but our driver 
quickly  got us a bag). The cooks/housekeepers at Stonefield make the 
meal  before they leave for the day. The next day we asked them to do 
the  shopping  for  dinner  since it was a challenge to shop and then 
they  showed  us  sample  menus which made it much easier to pick out 
what  we  wanted  (it  would  have been nice if they had done this to 
begin  with!).  We  tried  interesting  vegetables  like dasheene and 
breadfruit.  They didn't make a great quantity of food for dinner but 
it  was  enough  to  satisfy us. Later that week we found the rest of 
the tuna in the freezer - and it was still great when we cooked it.

We  had our wedding dinner at Dasheene at Ladera. The drinks and meal 
were  terrific.  The  setting  is  the  most  beautiful we saw on the 
island.  We  also ate at the Courthouse and Hummingbird in Soufriere, 
and  Spinnakers near Rodney Bay. All were pretty good, though service 
can be very slow.

Stonefield  cooked us a barbecue on Saturday night (usually on Friday 
night  but  they  moved  it for us since we were away on Friday). The 
food  was good and varied (though expensive - around $50/pp) - it was 
nice  to  be  in  a  small resort and know the whole staff, but there 
isn't much (any?) night life there.

Beaches & excursions

Stonefield  offers  a  shuttle  to the beach at Jalousie (though they 
don't  tell  you  about  it  - you have to ask), but the times didn't 
seem  to  coincide  with our plans so we mostly used taxi vans to get 
around.  We  highly  recommend  Marcus,  our taxi driver who was very 
helpful.  We  preferred  the  beach  at A/C over the local beach near 
Stonefield  and  the Jalousie Beach. The A/C beach has more shade and 
we liked the snorkeling/diving facilities. Jalousie seemed very over-
priced  for non-guests. We went on a few dives and snorkeled at A/C - 
both were pretty good.

We  went  into  Soufriere  a  few  times, and found it to be a fairly 
small  town and very poor (no shopping to speak of, but we aren't big 
shoppers).  Often  we  were  the  only  tourists  within sight, and a 
couple  of  times  were  offered  to  be  "guided"  by  a local. They 
generally take no for an answer, and we didn't feel threatened.

A  couple  of  the  guys in our group hiked up the Petit Piton with a 
guide  and  thought  it  was  great  but  very  rugged  and expensive 
($50/pp).

We  took  a  tour of the rain forest (rather steep hike in some parts 
but  great waterfall at the bottom), sulfur pits (short & interesting 
but  not  very  exciting),  and botanical gardens ($57/pp). Paul from 
the  estate  escorted  us  and  pointed out the various trees, ferns, 
etc.  We  walked  over to the "warm" waterfalls one day on the way to 
Jalousie  (we walked the entire way - quite a hike!). It was okay but 
not that well-maintained and had a slight sulfur odor.

We  also trekked up to Castries on Friday via water taxi ($120) to do 
some  shopping,  then  took  a cab to Rodney Bay ($20) for dinner and 
walked  over to Gros Islet for the Jump-Up. It was interesting to see 
Castries  if  a  little  overwhelming  (very  crowded that day in the 
market  -  there's  very  little  touristy  stuff outside of the port 
shops).  The  Jump-Up  was  interesting,  but  much  smaller  than we 
thought  and  only  taped  music.  Not  worth the trip if you have to 
travel  far. It was a loooong drive back from Gros Islet where Marcus 
met  us  (also  around  $120).  We not big shoppers or partiers so we 
could  have  skipped  this trip, but I'm glad we got to see the north 
side  of the island. It's a big contrast to the south. More developed 
and  familiar  feeling, and we thought it was more like other islands 
we'd  been to. The Soufriere area is a totally different experience - 
ruggedly  beautiful  and  quiet  but very poor and remote and hard to 
get around.

We  took a "sunset cruise" on a guy's boat one night ($40/pp). It was 
hard  for Claudia to find someone since it was a Sunday and a holiday 
weekend.  The  driver, Terry, was friendly though his boat was pretty 
small  for the 6 of us (just enough seating if one person sat next to 
the  driver).  He  offered us Piton beer and rum punch from a cooler. 
Nice  ride  to  Marigot  Bay  and  back.  He  even  let us get off at 
Jalousie to make an emergency pit stop for a bathroom break.

Summary

It's  a beautiful island and it was very relaxing & beautiful sitting 
by  the  pool  at  our villa looking up at the Petit Piton. We really 
enjoyed  our dinner at Ladera. It was also a very active vacation and 
we  never  ran  out  of  things to do. However, it took effort to get 
around  and  travel & tours were expensive. It would have been better 
if  we  had  the  courage  to  rent  a car - but the roads looked too 
treacherous.  The  north  part  of  the  island  seems  easier to get 
around,  and more commercialized. The people were generally friendly, 
but  not  very  out-going.  We're  not  used  to  having  to  ask for 
everything  with  no information offered voluntarily, but we got used 
to  it. We would go back some day and probably split the stay in both 
the  north  (for  the  convenience/action) and then in the south (for 
the  beauty/peacefulness),  but we love to try new things so maybe on 
our 15th anniversary! 

ST. LUCIA: CLUB ST. LUCIA / HOTEL ODYSSEY BY AGNES AND CHARLES OLAH

I  promise,  I  will  try  to  be  calm about this info while I still 
boiling. 

My  travel  agent in New Jersey has booked our trip to St. Lucia. She 
said:  we  will  stay  at  HOTEL  ODYSSEY.  After  our arrival to the 
airport  the agent of the Club St. Lucia put hand written stickers on 
our  luggage's and said this is our room number. After one and a half 
hour  drive we arrived to a gate. Behind the gate we have seen lot of 
little  bungalows.  On  the  top  of  the hill the driver stopped and 
pointed  toward  a little bungalow and said: put your luggage's there 
it  is  our  hotel  room.  When  we  have entered the room we smelt a 
terrible  odor  so I had to get out! bungalow and I requested to turn 
on  the  air  conditioner  to get better air. No air-conditioned, was 
the  answer.  It does not work. Only the ceiling fan was running with 
lot  of  noise.  When  I entered the bathroom I opened the cold water 
valve  for the sink. No water came out from the faucet!!! I looked on 
the  agent. Before I was able to ask about it he stated that there is 
not  enough  waterpressure,  because  we are on the highest elevation 
point  of the hotel!?! I asked about the upgradeable ocean-view room. 
No  such a thing available was the answer. Than my wife asked him: Do 
you  know  what  is the different between a hotel and a bungalow? The 
agent  replied:  Oh  madam,  this is a hotel. Actually Club St. Lucia 
(Hotel  Odyssey)  look like a camping place. They have over 350 small 
bungalows  and  those  bungalows,  many of them are very far from the 
beach, from the restaurant and bars. 

I  tell  you  that  I  was  suspicious  before  we left for our trip, 
because  the  travel  agent could not give us a brochure. Therefore I 
called  via telephone from New Jersey the Club St. Lucia in St. Lucia 
and  I  have  requested some printed material and brochures. The Club 
(Hotel  Odyssey)  did  not  send  any. After I made my second request 
without any success. 

After  forty  minutes  we  requested the top management person and we 
told  her  that  we  will not check in, because the Club of St. Lucia 
has  lured  us  to  the  Club, using misrepresentation! Actually they 
changing  names.  They  still  use on their official papers the Hotel 
Odyssey  name.  I got a telephone-book from St. Lucia and there is no 
Hotel  Odyssey  in  the telephone-book! But they use Hotel Odyssey on 
the  Internet. It is a strong senseless misrepresentation, and I will 
write  to  the  Tourist Government Services about it. We requested to 
find  for  us  a real Hotel. So the manager called Rex Papillon Hotel 
and  has  booked  a superior oceanfront room for us. The price of the 
air-conditioned  superior  room was $300.00 per night for two people. 
The  price  of the Club St. Lucia was $262.00 per night for two. I do 
not  have to tell you what is the different between the two rooms and 
atmosphere.  The  Papillon is a newly renovated Hotel with 140 rooms. 
With  a  very  large  restaurant,  two  bars,  one  of  them  on  the 
oceanfront  with outdoor eating. Three meals, free soft and alcoholic 
unlimited  drinks,  watersports,  swimming  pool and water and tennis 
sport facilities etc. 

We  have been more than happy during our stay at Papillon, and we are 
going  back  very  soon.  Go  there  and  try  out  both  places. The 
different is like hell and heaven.

ST. MARTIN BY STEVE AND CATHY GERSTENSCHLAGER

Trip 10/99

We  made  our first trip to St. Martin 19-26 October. We wanted to go 
on  a  trip  to  the  Caribbean in the fall but try to avoid the peak 
hurricane  season.  We  felt  going  in  late October would be fairly 
safe.  We booked the trip in June through MTI Globetrotters Vacations 
and  took  out  trip  insurance  just in case we needed to cancel. We 
wanted  to  stay  on  Orient  Beach and have a view of the Ocean. St. 
Tropez  Hotel seemed to fit the bill. All seemed set for an enjoyable 
vacation in St. Martin.

Unfortunately,  to  get to St. Martin from St. Louis, we had to catch 
an  American  Airlines  flight  to  Chicago then switch planes to San 
Juan  then  finally  from  San Juan to St. Martin. When we arrived in 
San  Juan,  the ticket agent looked at us and said did you know there 
is  a hurricane coming? We had tracked Jose prior to leaving, but did 
not  know  how  close  it  would actually come to the island. Flights 
were  still  leaving, so we got on the ATR aircraft and headed to St. 
Martin.  Over half way there, my wife looked at me and said the plane 
is  turning  around.  I  looked  at the flight attendant and asked my 
wife  if  she  thought we should be concerned if the flight attendant 
looked  scared to death. We then found out the generator had gone out 
on  the  plane  and  they had to return to San Juan for repairs. They 
did  not  tell  us  if they would put us on another plane or we would 
have  to  stay in San Juan. When we arrived back at San Juan Airport, 
they  met  us  with  a  bus  and took us to another plane. We finally 
arrived  at  San  Martin  at  approximately  8:30  PM.  We  had a car 
reserved  for  the  week  through Budget. We looked for Budget at the 
airport  and could not find their office. We were told that they were 
closed  for  the night and we would need to take a taxi to our hotel. 
We  ended  up taking a taxi ($25) but it was worth it because I don’t 
know  that  I  could  have  found the hotel in the dark and the rain. 
When  the  driver loaded our luggage, we discovered a large bottle of 
shampoo  had exploded due to the air pressure, so that entire bag was 
saturated  with  shampoo.  We arrived at the hotel forty-five minutes 
later. Things have to get better!

We  checked in at St. Tropez and were taken to our room by Claude who 
spoke  very little English. We had paid extra for an ocean view room. 
We  looked  out  the  patio doors and saw construction of a new hotel 
blocking  the  majority  of  our  view.  We could see a little of the 
ocean,  not  the  beach  but the ocean. We asked Claude if there were 
any  restaurants  open  because  we  had not eaten since lunch on the 
plane.  Claude said that all restaurants were closed to get ready for 
the  hurricane.  We  settled in and went to bed. The next morning (20 
October)  we  got up and they were serving croissants by the pool, so 
we  had  bread  and  coffee ($10). We thought breakfast was included, 
WRONG!!  We did not know at the time that this would be our last meal 
of  the day. We went to the beach in the rain. It was fairly deserted 
as  businesses were getting ready for the hurricane. We sat on one of 
the  bar  decks  and  watched  the  ocean  and  talked to a couple of 
people.  We  went  to  the office to inquire about our rental car and 
were  told  no  car  today  due to the hurricane. That evening a lady 
from  the  office  came to secure our deck furniture. We asked her if 
there  was any place to get something to eat and she said no. When we 
told  her  we  had hardly eaten in the last two days, she said that’s 
too  bad.  Later that night we rolled down the hurricane shutter over 
the  patio  doors  and  prepared  for  the  storm. The tropical winds 
switched  to  hurricane  force winds at 9:00 PM at which time we lost 
power.  We  went  to  bed and listened to the wind and rain pound the 
tin  roof  of  the hotel and blow against the walls. At approximately 
midnight  part  of our wall above the patio door came crashing in. We 
could  see  lightning  and rain was coming in the hole. Unable to see 
in  the  dark  and  uncertain  of  what  to do, I tried to assess the 
damage.  Our  bed remained dry but everything else got wet. The storm 
persisted  through  most of the night. The next morning (Thursday) we 
got  up  looked  out  and  saw  quite  a  bit of vegetation down. The 
parking  lot  to  our hotel was knee deep in water. We walked down to 
the  lobby,  which  was  also flooded. Needless to say, they were not 
serving  croissants  by  the pool and of course there was no place to 
get  food. On the bright side, this looked like it would be the first 
vacation  where  we  lost  weight. We walked up the beach in the rain 
and  looked  at  the damage to the bars and restaurants. Around noon, 
while  walking  through  the  lobby  of  the L’Hoste Hotel, the hotel 
manager  told  us  she  would  be  serving sandwiches to her guest at 
12:30  and we were welcome to join them. We certainly appreciated her 
gesture.  She  turned  out to be MUCH more helpful than management at 
St.  Tropez. We had our ham and cheese sandwich, which was wonderful. 
We  once  again  inquired  about  our rental car and were told due to 
floods,  we  couldn’t  get one. That evening Bikini Beach Bar opened. 
It  was  the  only  place  open  on the beach. We had an early dinner 
there.  They  had  a  limited  menu  due  to  the  storm, but we were 
grateful  that  they  made  the effort to open. The power kept coming 
and  going and most of the TV stations were down. We were getting two 
French  Channels  and  one  that  broadcast  the  local radio station 
(LAZER101).

Friday  morning,  still  raining,  parking lot still flooded, (Are we 
having  fun  yet?),  we  walked  down the beach. We sat in one of the 
concession  hut  porches  on the beach and watched the ocean and rain 
for  awhile. We then walked down to Club Orient. Papagayo’s was open, 
so  we went in and had breakfast. The waitress was very friendly, and 
we  had  a  good  American  style  breakfast.  This really lifted our 
spirits.  We  asked  the waitress if the boutique was open and how to 
get  to  it.  She gave us directions and off we headed in the rain. A 
lot  of  Club  Orient’s ground was also flooded and we walked through 
several  deep  puddles  to  get  to the boutique. In the boutique, we 
bought  some  souvenirs  and  more importantly some snacks. The clerk 
was  very  nice.  Friday  evening we lost our water, (we had lost hot 
water  earlier),  and  power. Due to additional flooding on Friday, a 
curfew was issued on the island. No car again!

Saturday  the  sun  came out, although we did receive several showers 
during  the  day. We walked to Papagayo’s for breakfast. We were told 
that  Jose  had  stalled  and we were still in the rain bands. We did 
soak  up  some  sun and enjoyed the beach. The beach was still fairly 
empty.  We  sat  in  Bikini  Beach’s chairs with another couple, (who 
were  staying at Palm Court), but did not get charged for the chairs. 
The  people  at  Bikini  Beach  were  nice and helpful throughout the 
week.  By  this  time we didn’t care about a rental car, we threw all 
our  plans  out  the  window  and would settle for a couple of decent 
beach  days.  The  couple  we  had met asked us out to dinner and the 
casinos.  We  ate  at  Lynette’s  close  to the airport, the food was 
good. We then went to a couple of casinos and had a good time.

Sunday  was  spent on Bikini Beach again. The sun was out most of the 
day,  but we did get several rain showers. L’Hoste set out croissants 
for  free  so we grabbed one and ate it on the beach. We ate lunch at 
Bikini  Beach Bar & Grill. We walked to Pedro’s (next to Club O), and 
had  drinks  and  listened  to  the  steel  drum band. We bought some 
snacks at the Club O boutique and ate in our room for dinner. 

Monday,  our  last day, we spent the day on the beach at Club Orient. 
We  ate  breakfast  at  Papagayo’s.  There were a couple of hard rain 
showers  that  morning,  but  overall we had a nice beach day. We met 
another  couple staying at Club Orient. They asked us to join them in 
Grand  Case  for  dinner  that evening. Prior to leaving we looked at 
their  chalet  and wondered why didn’t we stay at Club Orient? We ate 
at  La  Mandier that evening. The food and service were very good. We 
returned to St. Tropez and finished our packing.

Tuesday  we  had croissants by the pool ($12). A taxi picked us up at 
8:00  AM  and took us to the airport. We had an uneventful but tiring 
flight  home.  As hard as it is to believe through all this, we had a 
good  time.  We are considering returning in June and staying at Club 
Orient.  But June is the beginning of hurricane season, are we taking 
a  risk again? I could never recommend St. Tropez. We could have been 
dead  in  our  room  for  three  days  for  all they knew. They never 
checked  on  us.  Our room was not serviced at all for three days, no 
towels,  clean  sheets,  nothing!  Our  air conditioning did not work 
most  of the week, our phones were out and our room was infested with 
ants.  They  never  did  fix  the  hole  in  the  wall! They provided 
absolutely  no  help.  I  realize there was a hurricane, but it seems 
you  would  take  care  of  your guests. L’Hoste, Palm Court and Club 
Orient  took very good care of their guests. To add insult to injury, 
we  found  we  were  paying  significantly more than any of the other 
guests at the surrounding hotels (or St. Tropez).

As  long  as this report is, it only scratches the surface of some of 
the  stories  we  have to tell. We look forward to an uneventful trip 
in June where hopefully we can enjoy all St. Martin has to offer.

ST. VINCENT AND THE GRENADINE BY DEBBY OPREA-WRIGHT

Trip:  Oct. 1999

This  was  our  fifth bareboat sailing trip to the Caribbean Islands, 
our  first trip to St. Vincent/Grenadine Islands. 

Our  bareboat  charter  was booked through Sunsail Sailing Vacations.  
We   arrived  in  the  late afternoon of Oct. 8, 1999 and were met by 
Harold,  the   taxi driver for Sunsail.  We arrived at Lagoon Marina, 
Sunsail's  base,  and   were met by Paul, the manager.  Lagoon Marina 
is  located in Blue Lagoon which  on the southern tip of St. Vincent. 
He  welcomed  us to the islands and  preceded to take us to our boat, 
which  was  a  38  Athena  catamaran.    Thereafter,  we unpacked our 
belongings  and  went  directly  to  the  bar to have a  toast to the 
beginning   of  our  adventure.   The  Lagoon  Marina's  Green  Flash  
Bar/Restaurant,   which  is  located  on  the  base,  has  a   quaint 
atmosphere.   The   bartender,  Arnold,  introduced us to a couple of 
the  native  beers  and  cocktails.  After a few hours in the bar and 
several EKU beers, we made our  way back to our docked boat.

The  38  Athena  catamaran was a '97 and had some wear on her.  There 
was   ample  room  for  five  persons  which  had four berths and two 
heads.    This   was   our  second  catamaran  we  have  charter  and 
thoroughly  enjoyed  it because it has  so much more room than a mono 
hull.

Prior  to  our  departure  from  the  States  we purchased two frozen 
lasagnas,   a large bag of chicken tenders, and four steaks.  We also 
filled  a  large   Rubbermaid  box  with  hors  d'oeuvre items, i.e., 
crackers,  smoked  oysters,   clams, etc.  We had no problem bringing 
the  items  through  customs.   The only  dilemma we had was that the 
Rubbermaid  box  got  dented  in  and  was  cracking  on   the sides.  
Luckily,  prior  to  our  departure from San Juan we placed duck tape  
around  the box.  Usually we pack all of our staples into a cardboard 
box,  but   we  thought this would be a little bit more sturdy.  Next 
time, the cardboard  box will do. 

The  next  morning  at  approximately  8:30  a.m.  we had our charter 
meeting   with Bringsley who is a native of the islands, was with the 
Coast  Guard  for   20  years  and  he  also  serves  as a captain on 
charters.   The  meeting was very  informative and gave us our  start 
on  our  itinerary.   After  the meeting, we  proceeded with the boat 
check-out,   which  went  smoothly.   Prior  to  our   departure,  we 
obtained  ice,  beer, water and liquor from the store located on  the 
base.   The  store  also  carried  frozen  meat/seafood,  spices, and 
canned  items.  We left the dock at approximately 11:30 a.m.  

We  motored  out of the bay and set our sails and were off on our new  
adventure.   The  winds  that day were 5-10 and we cruised to Bequia, 
which  was   approximately a 1½ hour sail.  By the time we got there, 
we  did  not want to  go into the bay so we sailed around for another 
hour and enjoyed the wind in  our faces.

As  we  approached the bay of Bequia, we were mesmerized by the white 
beaches   and  the blue/green water.  A boat boy came by and directed 
us  to  a  mooring   ball.   After  a  few  cocktails on the boat, we 
climbed  into  the  dingy and went  to shore. We ended up roaming the 
small  streets  of  Bequia  and stopped and  picked up same fruit and 
vegetables.   The vendors were very polite and  offered us samples of 
the  fruits.   We  were  amazed by how sweet the mangos  were and how 
large  the  avocados  were.   To  our  surprise, the tangerines had a  
green  peel, but were very sweet on the inside.  After our stroll, we 
ended  up  at the Frangiapani Bar and relaxed in the shade.  A couple 
of  the  native   children  came  up and sang us some songs.  We went 
back  to  the  boat  and  cooked   one of the lasagnas and prepared a 
guacamole salad.  

We  brought  a  novelty  item with us to the islands which are called  
lightsticks.  The  original  lightsticks  were  primarily used by the 
Navy/Army.    The  lightsticks  we brought with us, come in different 
lengths  and  different   florescent  colors.   They also manufacture 
them  in  necklaces, bracelets, and  earrings.  That night at Bequia, 
we  placed  several  necklaces  and  bracelets  on   and went back to 
Frangiapani.   The  natives,  shop  owners and visitors were  amused.  
We  were  the  hit  of  the  party.   By  the  end  of the night, our  
lightsticks and jewelry were being worn by the islanders.  

The  next  day  we  sailed  to  Canouan  and had light winds and blue 
skies.    The  seas  were  so  calm  that day we thought we were in a 
large  lake.  We moored  at Charleston Bay and went to shore to check 
out  the  Tamarind  Bay  Resort.   The resort was just beautiful.  It 
has  a  very  nice  beach  area.   My  husband  was happy to be there 
because  they  had  a  satellite  and  he  got  to  see the  football 
scores.   We  had  a  couple  of drinks in the bar.  The most popular  
drink  among  us  was  the "Planter Punch".  That night we ate at the 
Timarinda   Restaurant  and  had  a variety of different pizzas.  The 
food  was  good.   After   dinner  we  walked the beach area and then 
headed back to the boat.

The  following  morning we stopped at the restaurant and were advised 
that   there is a nice resort on the windward side of the island.  We 
adventured  out   to  discovery  it  for  ourselves.   The  walk  was 
invigorating  and  when  we  reached   our  destination, the site was 
beautiful.   The  Carenage Bay Beach & Golf Club  is built in a small 
valley  and  in  the  middle  of  it is an old church which has  been 
renovated.  We  were  told  the  church  is  120  years old.  We were 
offered   an   invitation  to  tour  the  resort  by  the  management 
office.    The  resort recently  opened in Feb. of 1999.   The villas 
were  painted  in  Santa Fe colors and are  very pleasing to the eye.  
The  restaurant  and  pool  area  were beautiful in  themselves.  The 
golf  course is extremely nice and overlooks the sea front.   We took 
a  tour  of one of the luxury villas.  It contained three large baths  
with  two  large  bedrooms.   The  living  room  is very spacious and 
painted  with   subdued  pastel tones.  The villa has its own terrace 
and  private  patio.    The   only rooms that are air conditioned are 
the  bedrooms.   The  resort  is in the  process of building a casino 
which  is  being  constructed  on  top of a hill.   After the tour we 
proceeded  our  trek  back  to  Charleston  Bay.   We stopped by  the 
restaurant  and purchased three bags of ice ($4 US/bag) and two loafs 
of   bread  ($3  US/loaf).   The  loafs  of bread were very large and 
lasted  throughout   the trip.  We set our sails for Tobago Cays that 
afternoon.

As  we  sailed from the north and approached the entrance to the Cays 
the   opening was picturesque.  The crew all grabbed their cameras to 
get  the  perfect shot.  We motored in and dropped anchor and took in 
the  sights of the  Cays.  The anchorage was approximately 12-15 feet 
deep.   We  bought  a  couple   of t-shirts and also purchased a very 
large  lobster  from the boat boys.  The  lobster was approximately 8 
pounds  and  we  paid $40US.  The boat boys cleaned  and split if for 
us  for  easy  cooking  on  the  grill.   We  had  surf and turf that  
night.   We  were  accompanied at the anchorage by eight other boats.  
A  couple   of  the  boats dinged over to the small islands and built 
bon  fires.   That  night, we all laid out on the bow of the boat and 
enjoyed the activity in the  sky.  It was a great anchorage.

The  following  day  we  went  snorkeling in the Cays.  We got to see 
some   colorful  fish and coral.  The rest of the morning we explored 
Baradel  Island  and found emerald colored rocks.   We sat out in the 
water  for  an  hour  and so  and watched a couple of boats enter the 
Cays.  

That  afternoon  we  sailed on to Union Island.  Upon approaching the 
bay,   we  were  met by a boat boy, who helped us get a mooring ball.  
We  watched a  boat cut through the middle of the bay and run aground 
on  a reef.  A couple  of boat boys came to the rescue and we offered 
our  help.   Our assistance was  not needed and the boat boys finally 
got  them  off  the  reef.  We had a few  cocktails as we watched the 
sun  set and then went to Lambi's for dinner.  I  had the conch which 
was  very  tasty.  We walked around and had an after dinner  drink at 
Bougainvilla  and  checked  out  their  large  pool  of live lobsters 
which  is located in the back of the restaurant.  

The  following  morning  we had breakfast at the Bougainvilla.  Their  
breakfast   menu   was   not  extensive.   It  only  consisted  of  a 
continental   breakfast  or  the  All  American Breakfast.  All of us 
opted  for  the All  American, which consisted of eggs, bacon or ham, 
biscuits,  coffee, juice or  tea.  After breakfast, we took a hike on 
Union  Island and we went to the top  of the hill where Fort Hill was 
located.   It gave us a spectacular view of  the bay.  After our hike 
down  the  hill,  we  went  strolling  the  streets  to pick  up some 
provisions.   We  picked  up  two  Cornish  hens,  wine and cheese at  
Captain  Gourmet.  At that time, they were just moving into their new 
digs  and   did  not  have  everything shelved.  The owners were real 
nice  and  were  most   helpful.  We also did some souvenir shopping, 
but  seeing  it  was low season  many of the shops were closed.  Most 
of  them  do not open until the first of  November.  We bought all of 
our  fruits  and vegetables from the small stands  on the street.  We 
purchased  our  liquor  at  Grand  Union, which provided an  abundant 
selection.   Our  mission  that  day  was  also  to locate some beer.  
Most   of  us  were  not EKU beer drinkers.  We finally found a place 
that  carried Old  Milwaukee.  We bought two cases that day.  We also 
stopped   by  Susie's  Okaou   Boutique,  which  is  located  in  the 
Bougainvilla.   She  has  a great selection of  casual wear, t-shirts 
and  artistic  handicrafts.   The  boutique is also air  conditioned!   
One  of  the  water  tanks  on  the  boat  was empty and we wanted to  
purchase  water,  but  the  pump was not working due to an electrical 
outage on  the islands.  

We  motored  over  to Palm Island and the resort was being renovated.  
The   white  beach was magnificent.  We took a couple of pictures and 
then  set  sail   for Chatham Bay.  Chatham Bay is located on the lee 
side  of Union Island.    This bay is uninhabited and provides a very 
peaceful  anchorage.   We  shared   the bay with two other boats that 
night.  After the crew took a swim, we  proceeded to cook the Cornish 
hens and steaks.  After dinner we sat around  and star gazed.

The  next  morning  we  got  up  early for our sail to Bequia. We had 
some   strong  winds and we made our way to Bequia in five hours.  We 
heard  that  Thursday night was Bar-B-Que night and that a steel drum 
band  was  playing   there.   We arrived at the island mid-afternoon. 
When  we  entered  the bay there  was small cruise ship anchored.  We 
went  to  shore  and went to see Bob at  SunSports.  We set up a dive 
at  the  "Boulders"  for the next morning.  On our  previous visit to 
Bequia  we met the manger of Tantie Pearls Restaurant.  We  mentioned 
to  Bob  that  we  were  interested  in eating there.  He spoke of it  
highly  and  informed  us  that it catered to the locals.  We figured 
this  was  a   good  way to check out the local food.  Bob called and 
got  us  reservations.    It  was recommended that we did not walk to 
the  restaurant  because  it  was  located on a hill and the walk was 
steep.   We  found  a  taxi  driver  by  the  name  of Fat Man.  This 
individual  was  as  skinny as a rail.  We were glad we did  not walk 
there.   You  had  to go up two very very steep hills.  The view from  
the  restaurant  was  breathtaking.   It overlooks the bay.  The food 
was   wonderful  and  the  price was great.  The entrees consisted of 
chicken,  pork   chops,  and mutton stew.  The local side dishes were 
also  very  tasty  too.   For   the  five dinners and two cocktails a 
piece, the check was $65US.  What a  deal!!

The  next  morning  we  took  a  75  foot  dive  in  the  area called 
"Boulders."    It  was  a  great  dive.   Our dive master pointed our 
several  creatures to us.   We also got to see a six foot nurse shark 
and eight to ten moiré eels.  

That  afternoon  we sailed over to Young Island and moored in the bay  
between  the  island and St. Vincent.  We took a tour of Young Island 
and  it  is  a very charming place.  The grounds are filled with lush 
greenery.   The   resort  is  pricey,  and  the  villas  are  not air 
conditioned.  We  sat  in  the bar  and had a couple of cocktails and 
then  went  back to the boat to get ready for  dinner.  We decided to 
eat  at  the Lime 'n Pub which is located on St.  Vincent.   The food 
was  not  as  good  as we experienced on Bequia.  It had been  a long 
day  and  our  crew  was  pretty tired so it was a short night.  That  
evening,  we  received  our first rain shower.  We all anticipated on 
sleeping  on deck that night, but the heavens would not allow it.

The  next morning we started cleaning up the boat and getting all the 
food   together  that  we  did not eat and we gave it to the boat boy 
named  Elmo.   We   contacted  Sunsail  and advised them that we were 
ready  to  bring  the  boat  in.    They  in  turn,  contacted us and 
informed  us  as to where to dock the boat.   Docking the boat, was a 
sad moment for all of us, our adventure was coming to  an end.  

Following   our  clean  up  of  the  boat  and  the  removal  of  our 
belongings,  we   went  to  our hotel rooms at the Lagoon Hotel.  The 
rooms  cost  $95US (low  season).  They were of good size and are air 
conditioned.  

After  cleaning  up,  we  took  a  tour  of  St. Vincent  with HazEco 
Tours.    Our   tour  guide  was  Clint  Hazell.   Clint  is  a  very 
informative  individual  and   shared  his knowledge with us.  Due to 
the  rain  showers,  we were unable to  take the volcano and the rain 
forest  tour.   Clint  took  us  to  Kingstown and we  went to Noah's 
Arcade  for souvenirs.  The selection was good.  From there, we  went 
on  the  windward  side  of the island and discovered the lush banana 
groves   and  the  black  coast  beaches.    We also toured the Black 
Point  Tunnel  and  went   to  Sandy  Cay.  It was a tour that I will 
always remember and I highly  recommend HazEco Tours.  

The  remainder  of  the evening we spent at the Lagoon Marina's Green 
Bar/   Restaurant  reminiscing  about  our adventure and planning our 
next trip back to  the picturesque islands.    

The  official  The  Caribbean  Travel  Roundup  World Wide Web site is 
http://caribtravelnews.com.  The  CTR  is  also  available  on America 
Online.  Contact:  Paul  Graveline, 9 Stirling St., Andover, MA 01810-
1408   USA   :Home   (Voice   or   Fax)   978-470-1971.   E-mail   via 
editor@caribtravelnews.com or CTREDITOR@aol.com

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